Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 33

Thread: Have you ever tested the five step proces on your table saw,To Check your 90° Mitre?

  1. #1

    Have you ever tested the five step proces on your table saw,To Check your 90° Mitre?

    The five-step process is you take a cut using mitre or sled
    Each cut references to the mitre or fence or sled.

    The fifth the cut should have a small drop off that can be measured Tip to toe and should be completely parallel using A vernier.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Alberta
    Posts
    2,162
    Matt I have done this. I used a piece of plywood. Mark each edge 1,2,3,4 . Cut Edge #1 and rotate counterclockwise, cut edge 2,Rotate. Keep going until you have cut all four edges. Then you mark the front edge of side #1 and slice off a piece about 1/2'' wide. Take this piece and cut it in two. At this point lay the two pieces cut from the strip on edge and compare the marked front piece (start of your cut) with the back piece (end of fifth cut). The principle is that the cumulative error will show up as a difference in the thicknesses. It does. It can be very frustrating with how small of a movement it takes to adjust a fence bang on from this measurement. I have used this to adjust the fence on the wagon of two sliding table saws,the first one took twelve tries. Take very light cuts on your scrap piece of plywood ! There are several videos on Youtube showing this process. Good luck ,Mike.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Camas, Wa
    Posts
    3,855
    I have tried it in the past. I feel it brings out the dark side of me as I try to get both sides of the cutoff equal. The amount you are off is magnified by 4 so you have to do some math. Now I just make one cut, verify with a Woodpecker square, and call it a day.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Griswold Connecticut
    Posts
    6,927
    William Ng, has a good video for the five step method for those that are unfamiliar with what the OP is referring to.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UbG-n--LFgQ

    I have a Mast-R-Slide on my table saw, and I reset it with a Lamb Tool's square. I haven't used a cross sled in many years. I do still have one though.
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    NE Iowa
    Posts
    1,217
    The method surely works, but it's a lot more cutting than is needed. First, if you've got a good square- a Starrett combination square or equally accurate machined square - you can adjust a miter gauge or sled to within a fraction of a second of square using that to reference off the blade. Then take a piece of good plywood or machined hardwood that is 6" or so wide and 18-24" long, with the long edges dead-on parallel (easy, since you've got a table saw) and 1) saw it in half in through the short dimension using your sled; 2) with the the halves aligned on a straight edge as they were cut, flip the right one so the side previously on the straightedge is away from and parallel to it, and the opposite side is on the straightedge; 3) butt the sawn edges from your halving cuts together. Those edges should fit absolutely tight, and generally will if you were careful in the very first step with the square. If not, a very tiny adjustment in the gauge of sled is called for. The adjustment will be the same as gap you see over a 12" throw of your gauge or sled.

    It takes less time do this (the test) than I took to write it on this infernal iPad. The adjustment, if required, can be a pain. The last time I had a gap, it was barely more than .001" by feeler gauge. I went back to the square for realignment, rather than trying to gauge a thousandth movement In the fence.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Ouray Colorado
    Posts
    1,392
    The five cut method works especially with a large sheet. I have the Lamb square and find it easier. Especially for smaller strokes and double miters. Its really good for squaring the sliding shaper table and the tenoner also.
    IMG_0206.jpg
    IMG_0207.jpg

  7. #7
    I've never done it on a tablesaw, but I've done it on our panel saw.

  8. #8
    joe are you measuring square that way, you have your slider travel to blade offset if you are using any. Do you set your slider parrallel to the blade first or toe a hair then check you square. They affect each other I think. I had drag on the heal of the blade so had to pull the track out which threw me out of square more. ILl have to do adjustments in the bearing system which is fiddly on the one bar thing then two blocks three bearings in each. Its crude in a few ways

    I did the five out its out, also used the Mititoyou square I have its 1/4" thick expensive but had a hard life not sure I trust it 100 percent. It fits perfect between the teeth. I changed out a good quality 12" blade for a 14" plate is thicker and very true compared to the 12 I did pick.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    22,494
    Blog Entries
    1
    I use the 5 cut method to confirm or initially set all my sleds and miter slot riding jigs or gauges. Quick and easy.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Silicon Valley, CA
    Posts
    989
    I did this when making my crosscut sled.
    I've gotten a lot of value out of making this well.


    Matt

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lewiston, Idaho
    Posts
    28,504
    I used it when making my crosscut sled.
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  12. #12
    Have not used the 5 cuts to test my tablesaw, and I just use a combo square or drafting triangle to verify all my cutting settings. Haven't seen any negative effects on my work whether they are miter or square cuts. I think Ng's method is sound, but in practice when we work with wood, it really does not matter when we are not dead straight or square or miter to 0.0001" etc. Your machine may get you perfect cuts, but you other skills (assembly for instance) may throw you off.

    Simon

  13. #13
    Cumulative errors never seem to cancel each other out though. Murphy's Law.

    I forget what the Striebig got dialed into for error, but it was obnoxiously small on a 40" cut.

    The 5 sided cut is good because it multiplies the error. So if it's .0025 on a 40" cut, it's really a .000625 error on a 40" cut. (I think it multiplies it by 4?) Or, essentially nothing. We ain't building anything that's getting shot into space.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Inkerman, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    1,389
    I usually use some very simple checks and references. To check small crosscuts i simple cut in half a squared stick. and stand it on end on a flat surface, then push them close together.
    Two fence faces together, they will fit.
    one fence face and one opposite face will show any error.
    For example, a 4" x 4" x 40" stick cut in half and stood on end will multiply the error tenfold..
    You can use this to check square in both planes with only one cut.
    Just have to mark reference face and edge and cut surfaces.
    Simple fast and accurate and cheap.

    assem1.jpg

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,688
    The 5-cut method is pretty much a standard method that those of us with sliders use to insure our crosscutting fence(s) are properly square to the blade. Just remember, you're shooting for half the deviance when you are making adjustments.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •