Combo jointer / planer question

[Greg Parrish]

It's most likely 120mm...there are lots of threads about adapting. I use a rubber Fernco sewer connector on mine. It slips OVER the port on the machine and the 5" hose slips OVER the other side of the rubber connector and uses a hose clamp to keep it together.

Funny, I was just finding and reading some of your posts from 2008 about this same thing. LOL. I’ll have to go look for a fernco connector at the hardware store. Will be the easiest route I think. Thx.

[Jim Becker]

Yes, the rubber Fernco thing-a-ma-jigs are quick and easy if you can get the right one from your 'borg or hardware store. With my J/P, the two functions have separate hoods, so being able to move the hose quickly and easily is a nice thing. I have one on my slider, too, but that one never moves...it was just a convenient way to adapt to the machine.

[Julie Moriarty]

Anyone know the scoop on the size of the port on the Hammer? I went to the trouble to track down 5” hose and a 6” to 5” reducer for my duct work. That said, the 5” hose is too big for the machine. 4” is too small.

Is is this a metric port or something? Do I need some sort of 5” to metric adapter at the machine? Thanks.

I thought Rod said the OD on the 120mm port measured 4.75", the same size of the ID of the 5" hose I picked up. What measurement are you getting on the OD of the JP port?

[Greg Parrish]

I thought Rod said the OD on the 120mm port measured 4.75", the same size of the ID of the 5" hose I picked up. What measurement are you getting on the OD of the JP port?

By crude tape measure measurement they both measure 4.75” but by fit the hose is too loose to stay on. I’m probably going to apply a wrap of thin rubber tape and then clamp the hose to that. Same approach I had to use on the other end of this hose. But I need to make sure I can easily transition it without removal if I do that. Or go with a fernco adapter. Can’t back to it till later this week though.

[Brian Holcombe]

The hoses I have won't go onto a 120mm port, they just fall off in use, I used a Fernco fitting just as Jim does.

[Julie Moriarty]

By crude tape measure measurement they both measure 4.75” but by fit the hose is too loose to stay on. I’m probably going to apply a wrap of thin rubber tape and then clamp the hose to that. Same approach I had to use on the other end of this hose. But I need to make sure I can easily transition it without removal if I do that. Or go with a fernco adapter. Can’t back to it till later this week though.

I just checked the hose to 5" metal duct and it fits very tightly. Then I tried the hose on the 5" blast gate, which has an ID of 4.75", and it's a bit loose but the OD of the blast gate has a small flare out. Most of my DC hose connections tie into blast gates and there has been some issues about them falling off. The band clamp has to be very tight. Maybe it's time to start looking for that Fernco adapter...

[Greg Parrish]

I just checked the hose to 5" metal duct and it fits very tightly. Then I tried the hose on the 5" blast gate, which has an ID of 4.75", and it's a bit loose but the OD of the blast gate has a small flare out. Most of my DC hose connections tie into blast gates and there has been some issues about them falling off. The band clamp has to be very tight. Maybe it's time to start looking for that Fernco adapter...

I have 6” Lee valley gates. I have been pinning all of my plastic duct connections with small screws and using two bolts to attach it to my gates. My hose fit snuggly on a 6” to 5” metal reducer from the local hardware store but that adapter was loose on my gate. A single wrap of double sided sticky rubber trim tape and my two pinning bolts got a nice tight connection. But the port on the machine is plastic so I’m hesitant to clamp too hard there since it has to flop back and forth. The fernco adapter is prob way to go.

[Julie Moriarty]

The hoses I have won't go onto a 120mm port, they just fall off in use, I used a Fernco fitting just as Jim does.

Do you have the Fernco number on that coupling? 1003-44 is the only one I could find with a 4.75" ID but the other end is 5.32", too large for 5" hose. 1051-44 looks like it might work with some modifications but it reduces the ID down to 4.4"

Fernco Flexible Couplings page

[Brian Holcombe]

Fernco 1056-44 is what I used on both Sam and Jim's recommendation. It works perfectly.

[Jim Becker]

I just checked the hose to 5" metal duct and it fits very tightly. Then I tried the hose on the 5" blast gate, which has an ID of 4.75", and it's a bit loose but the OD of the blast gate has a small flare out. Most of my DC hose connections tie into blast gates and there has been some issues about them falling off. The band clamp has to be very tight. Maybe it's time to start looking for that Fernco adapter...

I never connect a hose directly to the blast gate...there's always at least a short piece of straight duct after the gate for the hose to get clamped to. The angled nature of many of the gates is better supported by sealant and pop rivets to stay snug and the hose is then tight on the duct.

[Bill McNiel]

The hoses I have won't go onto a 120mm port, they just fall off in use, I used a Fernco fitting just as Jim does.

Oneida has a 120mm x 5" adapter (https://www.oneida-air.com/inventory..._no=SCOLLECT54).

[Jim Becker]

Oneida has a 120mm x 5" adapter (https://www.oneida-air.com/inventory..._no=SCOLLECT54).

I bought one of those a long time ago, but ended up selling it to another 'Creeker in favor of the simple Fernco rubber doo-jobbie. They are great for "permanent" connections, but if I recall clearly, they were not a great solution for something that needs to move as does my J/P connection because of having separate hoods for each function. They are a nice, heavy product, however.

[Greg Parrish]

Okay, finally got to point of trying out my new A3-31 tonight. After getting the fence rail secured properly, I tried the jointer function. I’m getting some snipe type lines but it appears to be technique related based on trying to keep consisten pressure on the work piece while jointing. Was using a short 20” or so long piece of 6” wide maple for trial. im guessing this is just a technique issue I need to work on.


however, once jointed I tried to plane the other face and I’m getting serious snipe on both ends of the board. Not sure how this could be technique and I’m not sure what to do. Realizing some new tools require alignment but I must say I’m disappointed to say the least to get 4 to 5 inches of heavy snipe on both ends of the board. Haven’t read any comments about anyone else having this issue and in fact most claim perfect planes with no snipe on these machines.
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Lastly, I ordered one of the extensions, which was not on during snipe issue, and I can’t get it level with the planer bed. The closest I can get it creates the sides level and the center rib not level. It appears to be a nice machined extrusion of aluminum but The darn thing is not level across its width. How the heck can you use an extension on a jointer or planer that isn’t level? Am I missing something?
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ugh, I’m tired and exasperated given how much money I dropped on this thing.

[Julie Moriarty]

Call Tim. When I asked him about the disclaimer on how some machines may not be delivered properly calibrated, he said to call anytime and that they have videos they can send or you can talk to a tech who will walk you through the process of fixing it. You are the mechanic, they are the instructors. As long as you have the tools, they will help you fix any problem. At least that's how I understood it when I talked to Tim.

[Greg Parrish]

Just finished going through the manual and I think I might have figured out the snipe. Have to go try it. Looks like I have to clamp the table in place after each adjustment maybe? The dewalt didn’t require that so I’m sure I’m missing something here.

On the extension, I’m starting to wonder if the center crown doesn’t matter since referencing is done right at the cutter block. If that’s the case I’ll have to level based on the center crown and have the two sides be ever so slightly lower.