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Thread: Combo jointer / planer question

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
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    Winterville, NC (eastern NC)
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    2,360
    I would suggest saving your pennies and going for the segmented cutter head on the Hammer J/P machines. I just got a A341 and the surface is so smooth that I am considering selling my dual drum sander. I got the sander to smooth the surfaces left by my old machine, a low cost knock-off of the Laguna J/P machines.
    And you eliminate the hassle of setting straight knives after each change.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
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    Florida
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Wilkins View Post
    I would suggest saving your pennies and going for the segmented cutter head on the Hammer J/P machines. I just got a A341 and the surface is so smooth that I am considering selling my dual drum sander. I got the sander to smooth the surfaces left by my old machine, a low cost knock-off of the Laguna J/P machines.
    And you eliminate the hassle of setting straight knives after each change.
    Hadn't thought about that but I literally just got a supermax 19-36 drum sander last month. Something to consider but don’t want to jump too quick on that one. I can see uses for the drum sander on items the planer couldn’t do as well like thin or small items.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Central WI
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    5,666
    When you go Tersa you want the machine to have a chipbreaker and pressure bar on the planer. If the machine does not have those, an insert head is preferable. A straight knife head can leave a great finish ( no knife or insert completely avoids sanding ) but the machine needs a better build than one with an insert head. I have both and like the insert for my light duty finish planer but Tersa for the big planer. I'd also look closely at how the tables are hinged and the design to keep them in adjustment. The head becomes irrelevant if you have issues with the table settings. Dave

  4. #34
    Just my .2$. Don't get me wrong...I now really like my MM FS30 Smart J/P, which is a 12". I have a small garage shop and the space savings is great. Switching over from J to P is not really a big deal, as I try to do all my jointing first, then planing. Here's the thing...for years, I dealt with the tables not being flat. It was pretty unreliable as you can imagine. All MM did for me was to refer me to a professional machine adjuster, which did little good. I finally had to spend $800 to have my FS30 tables ground flat. Now, the machine works as it should have, years and $800 later.
    Pick the machine manufacturer with the best after-sale Customer Service. Chances are, at some point, you'll need it, no matter the machine.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Auckland, New Zealand
    Posts
    531
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Wilkins View Post
    I would suggest saving your pennies and going for the segmented cutter head on the Hammer J/P machines. I just got a A341 and the surface is so smooth that I am considering selling my dual drum sander. I got the sander to smooth the surfaces left by my old machine, a low cost knock-off of the Laguna J/P machines.
    And you eliminate the hassle of setting straight knives after each change.
    I agree, the finish on the AD951 Silent cutter block had me thinking of selling my SCM 43" wide belt sander. I just need a quick sand with palm sander then its all good.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Florida
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    1,950
    First step in that direction. Listed my like new powermatic 54A with shelix head for sale on CL. If I can get it sold for a good price then I’ll list my DW735 with shelix. Figure the planer will sell quicker.

    am I reading correctly in the online manual that the A3-31 and A3-41 are 16A max load 230V motors? So a 20A 230V circuit is good?
    Last edited by Greg Parrish; 08-15-2018 at 9:15 AM.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    65,688
    You should check with the Felder/Hammer folks to confirm the electrical requirements for the machine(s). Don't make assumptions...
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
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    11,248
    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Parrish View Post
    First step in that direction. Listed my like new powermatic 54A with shelix head for sale on CL. If I can get it sold for a good price then I’ll list my DW735 with shelix. Figure the planer will sell quicker.

    am I reading correctly in the online manual that the A3-31 and A3-41 are 16A max load 230V motors? So a 20A 230V circuit is good?
    Hi, as Jim said, check with Felder.

    I live in Canada so the requirements were different when I bought mine. Mine was limited to a 20 ampere maximum circuit by Canadian rules at that time. (Mine actually is on a 15 ampere circuit).

    Check with Felder for requirements in the USA.............Rod.

  9. #39
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    Mar 2016
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    Florida
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    Will do. Thanks.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    919
    I went with a 30 amp circuit and 10 gauge wire.

    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Parrish View Post
    First step in that direction. Listed my like new powermatic 54A with shelix head for sale on CL. If I can get it sold for a good price then I’ll list my DW735 with shelix. Figure the planer will sell quicker.

    am I reading correctly in the online manual that the A3-31 and A3-41 are 16A max load 230V motors? So a 20A 230V circuit is good?

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Florida
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    After looking at and thinking about the cost on the A3-31 some more ($5,350 shipped and tax with mobile kit and wheel/gauge) I’m back thinking about separates. Would mean a need to move my layout accordingly but I think with getting rid of my 6’ tool chest recently and deciding to get rid of my huge miter station, I will be freeing up a lot of space. The idea of not having to flip the machine back and forth is appealing. Plus I could start with the larger jointer once mine sells and then a larger planer. Thinking maybe an 8” parallelogram jointer and 15”, 16” or maybe 20” planer. The more I think about the 12” jointer the more I’m not sure I’ll actually need that much width very often. Still thinking it through but am thinking the separates might be a better route to stick with. As you can probably tell, I’m torn. The cost on the A3 gives me a moment of pause to think through 2 bites equaling same price or more vs the single bite of the A3.
    Last edited by Greg Parrish; 08-15-2018 at 5:44 PM.

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    Changeover takes about a minute and baring a "brain fart", you will not be doing it very often because you'll plan your milling accordingly...flatten everything first and from there it's all thicknessing.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  13. #43
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Auckland, New Zealand
    Posts
    531
    I never owned a mitre station and I am semi production... I did once had a double mitre saw, but thats not a mitre station.

    If you have space and the budget then definitely separate the JP combo. I dont have the space so I have to settle with a combo.

    If you go separate you could buy an used 630mm 25" plane + 10" jointer, if you have the power and the extraction. the 630mm planer will probably be an overkill but it will only be matter of time before it is too small.

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Florida
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    No power or space for a 25” planer. After looking at nice big jointers like an Oliver 10”, I’m back thinking I don’t have space for a big jointer and big planer. Even with shedding some stuff and clearing floor space. It means a 12” combo probably makes most sense. Hate making choices like this. Ugh.

  15. #45
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    You mention VAT...are you "up north"?? That can factor into folks' recommendations, too.
    VAT is UK. HST is Canadian.

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