Combo jointer / planer question

[Warren Lake]

your approach might be different for different machines. I normally drill bases then chain up and use whatever to lift from a forklift to a skid steer to a big honking John Deer. Last saw at 1,200 lbs slid up maple beams then down again used a block and tackle to control how it moved as doing it by myself at both ends., Sliding it down the beams it was just as important to use the block and tackle to control it and slowly move it down the beam.

[Greg Parrish]

Yes, if I were doing this at our farm, where my Dad lives, I’d have used the backhoe/front end loader with the forks on it and been done with this. But in my residential situation with limited heavy lifting/moving equipment I’m just trying to approach with the most feasible and safe manner to get it down the 9” drop. If the pallet didn’t have the 5x5 posts under it, we would be having a different discussion since I could probably lower it 4” without tipping. But at 9” my fear is damaging the machine more than anything else.

If it had lifting rings or points, I would be less concerned and would have considered the engine hoist more so, but lots of reading kept leading to comments about concern over the cabinet strength and potential effect to the jointer bed alignment. Same comments referred to the use of 4 individual castors causing issues with alignment on uneven floors.

Anyway, it is an expensive machine so I’m taking my time to figure out what I think is the best way to finesse it off the pallet without damage or issues. Hope to have it on the ground later this afternoon and will report back with what method we end up using. If nothing else it may help Julie who may be in a similar predicament since she is in a residential location sort of like me.

Besides I need to get it pinned down so when I order a K3 next year I’m ready for it too. LOL

[Julie Moriarty]

If nothing else it may help Julie who may be in a similar predicament since she is in a residential location sort of like me.

And I'm checking this thread constantly...

I've managed heavy equipment at work, but there's always manpower and moving & lifting aids. I did manage to get a 300 lb bandsaw up four stairs and down into the basement by myself. I used a come along and block and tackle to help. But this beast is a whole different animal. It will be interesting, to say the least.

[Warren Lake]

I do the drill and chain at the bottom often as it covers all things on a trailer with a forklift off a trailer with a skid steer or giant John Deer and more so I can change elevations like over 50" straight up or down with no stress to the machine. I dont think you need to see that ive shown it before

this is the last one first one in a while I didnt drill as not doing the 50 inch height difference. This was loaded by me and unloaded by me. If someone looks at this and thinks you dont need the chain to lower it down thats fools stuff at 1,300 lbs there is enough weight there to squash a small tank. On the hard maple beams that were waxed at one point stuff can stick or it can fly, the night I unloaded it started to rain and it was not my friend in a few ways. Stuff can rust right in front of your eyes.

Oh and the blocking up wasnt needed there as the maple was so strong at least going off beam distance was longer going up so more needed, poorly done it will just push away so needs to have an angle and be secured if you do blocking up.

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[Greg Parrish]

Mine is is on the ground now. Here is what we did.

Took an 8’ to 10’ long 4x6 beam which is 3.5” thick. We sandwiched it with two 2x4 boards of similar length to create a beam roughly 3.5” x 8.5” x 10’. Pull staples and bolt heads out of way and wiggle machine to edge of crate. Slide beam under the machine and out the other side. Take a short cut piece of 2x4 and screw to top of beam where it comes through other side to keep beam from sliding back under machine. Now start to wiggle the whole thing off the edge of the pallet and the beam will allow it to slowly come off and start to taper down to the floor. Have helper stabilize while you wiggle and pull. Once the beam end starts to get about 1.5’ from the edge of pallet sink a screw or two through it into the pallet so it won’t slide off. At this point, keep sliding until you get the side on the floor. At this point you can either keep sliding till other side touches or unscrew beam from pallet and start to pull beam out backwards. Either method allows that end to taper slowly to floor. I had to pull beam as we ran out of forward space.

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[Jim Becker]

"The eagle has landed!" And now on to the cleaning and setting up and...making a mess with it frequently thereafter.

[Julie Moriarty]

Wooohoooo!

Those pictures take me back to landing transformers.

Nice job, Greg... and dad.

[Greg Parrish]

Thanks. Managed to get the wheels on and the mobility kit installed. For some reason they removed the fence and rail for shipping so I’ve loosely attached them for the moment. Need to get them properly affixed and then open the beds to remove the packing material on the planer. Little more to go and then time to get a cord and plug wired up. Regardless, it’s mobile at least now.

Couple of points. Once it’s on the ground, a tiny little racing jack from harbor freight fits under and nicely lifts the side to install feet and wheels. Second, the instructions and manuals are a mess. My eyes go fuzzy just trying to look at them. They do have English at least but the languages are all mixed making it difficult to follow some times. And the videos, while really great, don’t include all items. For example, their video is on a lower, wider pallet. Their machine already has the fence and fence bracket attached when unwrapped.

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[Greg Parrish]

Okay, what the heck. In looking at power cord/plug/circuit requirements, there are multiple things contradicting each other in the paperwork. One page with no model number mentioned was in a plastic bag attached to the wiring indicating a 30amp circuit. The manual has a page attached to the wiring diagram indicating a max circuit breaker of 20 amp and it references the model. The wiring diagram has info that references the overload protection at 19A (14A). And the plate on the back of the machine says 19.8A but if you calculate the 3 KW at 230V it equals 13A.

So what gives and what info do I trust for choosing my wiring/plug and breaker? I have a 20 amp circuit in place that I planned to use but need to know what to do.

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[Julie Moriarty]

Earlier today I asked Rod about the electrical requirements so I could pick up the materials to install the new run. But when I looked at the kW I figured a 2 pole, 20A breaker should suffice and the run would be #12.

From the pics you posted, I will wire it as outlined above. Sometimes machinery specs will give you a max rating for the breaker but I didn't see that from your pics. Unless someone from Felder pipes in and corrects me, this is a 20A, 2 pole feed.

FWIW, breakers should be loaded to a max of 80% of stated rating. That puts this machine on the bubble for a 15A circuit.

[Greg Parrish]

Earlier today I asked Rod about the electrical requirements so I could pick up the materials to install the new run. But when I looked at the kW I figured a 2 pole, 20A breaker should suffice and the run would be #12.

From the pics you posted, I will wire it as outlined above. Sometimes machinery specs will give you a max rating for the breaker but I didn't see that from your pics. Unless someone from Felder pipes in and corrects me, this is a 20A, 2 pole feed.

FWIW, breakers should be loaded to a max of 80% of stated rating. That puts this machine on the bubble for a 15A circuit.

So so you agree that the 3KW motor (3,000) divided by 230volts is an amperage load of 13.04A, which is what you are saying is about 80% of a 15A circuit breaker? That said, a 20A plug with 12ga cord on a 20A circuit is the way to go?

im hoping so, and hoping so, as I didn’t want to have to upgrade wiring until I get ready for a sliding table saw at some point. When that happens I’ll need to upgrade the wire to my sub panel to pick up the higher 30A requirements of many of the sliders.

[Julie Moriarty]

Greg, unless there's something in your paperwork that advises otherwise, this, to me, is a 20A, 2P circuit fed with #12 all day long. IIRC, Rod said he feeds his JP with a 15A circuit.

When I ran the numbers on my panel, I get 237v across the two legs. Divide that into the 3kW load of the A3 31 and it comes up as 12.66A. 80% of a 15A breaker is 12A. So you bump it up to 20A and you're good.

The voltage coming to your house will vary. In Illinois ComEd had to guarantee no more than a 7% fluctuation in voltage. I don't know what FPL is required to produce but if you provide a 20A circuit, you should be covered.

And remember, you may never hit that 3k load. But that doesn't mean you can't exceed it.

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Julie

My Hammer N4400 bandsaw is connected and runs on 20 amps. The A3-31 J/P runs on 15 amps, as does the K3 slider. These connections, and the power they draw at start up and continuously, were checked by a qualified electrician, who is also a professional woodworker. It was interesting that the A3-31 appeared to draw about 10 amps at startup. Here in Oz we use 220-240 V for everything.

Regardless of these connections, the cardinal rule when starting these machines is to hold down the starter button until the motor is running. Never start them by poking the start button briefly - that will lead to a burned out capacitor.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Julie Moriarty]

Hi Derek,

Rod said he runs his JP on a 15A breaker, too. The second picture on Greg's post above shows 20A maximum circuit protection. The box isn't checked but that's the only option. To me that says Felder is good with a 20A breaker. So it wouldn't hurt to run the JP off a 20A circuit. And when you consider loading breakers to a max of 80% rated capacity, well, I like the 20A circuit protection.

When I get mine set up, I'll put an amp probe to it while the machine is under load. It will be interesting to see how close it comes to the 3kW rating.

[Dan Friedrichs]

A hint for you two Floridians:

The mobility kit looks nice and shiny, now, but those stop collars are not stainless. Mine rusted, and that bothers my neurotic brain Spray some sort of rust preventative on them to keep them looking sharp.