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Thread: Wiring Powermatic Model 60

  1. #1

    Wiring Powermatic Model 60

    Hi, I am new to this forum and to woodworking in general. I recently picked up Powermatic Model 60 jointer made in 1983, I believe. Previous owner had trouble running it, from his words it was popping out the breaker. The way I got jointer is the motor was directly wired to the plug bypassing the magnetic starter. I tried to run it as is, checking whether it was 110v or 220v - it was 110v, - and it started fine and no problems with breaker.
    What I would like to do now is to wire it back via magnetic starter, but I have no idea how, I realized that L1 & L2 at the top of it is where wires from the power source (plug) should go, but I couldn't understand how to connect motor to it. I was trying to use multimeter to test contacts on magnetic starter and I didn't get power anywhere except where I connected my black wire from the power source. What is also slightly confuses me is that I found similar model on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/p/Furnas-14DF12...6226535&chn=ps and looking at photos there are some red wires that connect terminals on the starter itself - mine doesn't have any of that. I attached more photos in case it helps.


    IMG_0818.jpgIMG_8364.jpgIMG_2706.jpgIMG_5280.jpgIMG_0858.jpgIMG_0409.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Camas, Wa
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    3,431
    Looks like the black motor wire needs to go to T2 and the white to T1. A magnetic switch needs juice to latch and hold so that might be where you measurement problems are coming from.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Cary Falk View Post
    Looks like the black motor wire needs to go to T2 and the white to T1. A magnetic switch needs juice to latch and hold so that might be where you measurement problems are coming from.
    Which one is T2 and which one is T1? Sorry for dumb question? What to you mean by juice, I had L2 wire hot...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
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    1,602
    Do you have a remote stop and start station or just the switches in the control box? L1,L2, L3 are the line in power connections. T1,T2,T3 are the motor terminals taking power out of the box into the motor. L3 an T3 are only used for 3 phase. They may not even exist on a single phase contactor/starter.
    Most problems are caused by the stop switch being dirty and not being closed all the way. Power has to go through the stop switch to keep the motor running. Most wiring is done such that the on switch will let the motor start and run if held down even if the stop switch is bad.
    Bil lD.

    https://www.theautomationstore.com/3...-stop-circuit/
    Last edited by Bill Dufour; 08-10-2018 at 5:47 PM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Camas, Wa
    Posts
    3,431
    T2 is labled and below the Stop switch. I think T1 is the far one under the start switch(not the center one). By juice I meant electricity. A magnet starter holds the switch on until it looses power and it shuts off. If you turn the saw on and power goes out the switch will open and the saw will stop. Unlike a normal switch the saw will not come back on once the electricity is restored.

  6. #6
    Maybe these photos will help.

    The elephant in the room here is how to hook up the start/stop button assembly. That's conspicuously missing. This starter is a three phase one that I run on single phase. I'm using L1 and L2 and ignoring L3 connections. Yours has a blank space in the middle row of connectors since its single phase.

    Another biggie: The coil. Be sure it is connected for the proper voltage. Most of those coils have little jumper pieces that are shifted for the proper voltage.(bottom Photo)


    furnas starter - 1.jpg

    furnas starter - 2.jpg


    furnas starter - 3.jpg


    furnas starter - 4.jpg


    furnas starter - 5.jpg


    furnas starter - 6.jpg

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Vaughan View Post
    Maybe these photos will help.

    The elephant in the room here is how to hook up the start/stop button assembly. That's conspicuously missing. This starter is a three phase one that I run on single phase. I'm using L1 and L2 and ignoring L3 connections. Yours has a blank space in the middle row of connectors since its single phase.

    Another biggie: The coil. Be sure it is connected for the proper voltage. Most of those coils have little jumper pieces that are shifted for the proper voltage.(bottom Photo)


    furnas starter - 1.jpg

    furnas starter - 2.jpg


    furnas starter - 3.jpg


    furnas starter - 4.jpg


    furnas starter - 5.jpg


    furnas starter - 6.jpg

    Thanks a lot! That is what I was looking for, you right and start/stop buttons wiring is missing and also looks like I am missing “energizing coil” wiring as well. I think I can use your pictures to re-wire everything, just need to transfer it on to my single phase starter.
    One more question - which terminals you connect your motor wires?
    Last edited by Kirill Pugin; 08-11-2018 at 1:38 PM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Darmstadt, Germany
    Posts
    249
    Here's a schematic to show how your Powermatic should be wired using the starter you have. Your motor connections go to the T2 terminal on the contactor and the T1 terminal at the end of the heater element (the overload thermal switch). This works in the coil is rated at the same voltage as the voltage between L1 and L2. You will have to verify the coil is configured correctly with the straps.

    Furnas_Starter.jpg


    In the attached picture of your starter, I used dashed red lines for the power wires and a dashed green line for the grounding wire since they show up better. The T2 connection is below the switch terminal in the picture. The T1 connection looks like the screw head has "T1" on it.

    Furnas_Starter-2.jpg

    I don't think there is anything special about the Furnas starter you have unless the Start and Stop switches align in the cabinet case. Any newer 2-pole starter with the same rating should work if there are any problems with your starter. Adding an external Start-Stop switch is easy.

  9. #9
    That series Furnas starter is one of my favorites to work with. Yours is a NEMA size 1 rated for 27 amps. Its about a $400.00 starter these days. The size of the contacts of a NEMA size 1 are gigantic compared to other off-shore starters that say they are "rated" for 30 amps


    .furnas contacts - 1.jpg

    The above shows the difference in "ratings" and actual contact size. The top two contacts are from a Furnas NEMA size one like the one in question above. The lower contacts are from the kind of places that like to print rating numbers.

    furnas contacts - 2.jpg

    This set of contacts came from a recent Delta Unisaw with a 3 HP single phase motor. The "import" starter had a very high rating printed on it. Naturally the bottom contact is from a Furnas NEMA size 1 starter like being discussed above.

    I think you can clearly see why that starter is worth having and what kind of starter you really don't want.

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