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Thread: Two bandsaw setup?

  1. #1

    Two bandsaw setup?

    Hey there folks,

    I'm looking at upgrading my bandsaw situation. Right now I've got a 14" Delta that's 3/4 HP and has about 6" of resaw capacity.

    I know for certain I'll go with something more powerful (have my eye on the Rikon 10-326) , especially for resawing. But I was wondering how many of you go with two bandsaws: one larger more powerful saw for resawing, and another smaller, cheaper saw for cutting curves.

    Of course I can go with one saw and just change blades. But time is my biggest limitation. The more time I can spend cutting and the less changing blades and calibrating, the better.

    Anyone out there rock two bandsaws? How does a smaller bandsaw work out if all you are doing is cutting curves? Thanks in advance!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    Central WI
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    Two bandsaws are a no brainer if you have the room and the need for both scroll and resaw work. If you go that route you should upgrade to a more true resaw though. Something like the MM16 or even the heavy Grizzly type 17" but it should have a stout frame. There is no point using up the space for a machine that isn't engineered for your purpose. You can resaw with a lesser machine but it is slow and the benefit of the stout frame is so you can put a carbide 3/4-1" blade on it and leave it forever. Dave

  3. #3
    Hi Joe,
    Welcome to SMC!

    I have a 12" JET for routine work and a Rikon 325 that has a wide blade for resawing. This arrangement works well for the things I like to build.

    BTW, Woodcraft has a 15% off sale on Rikon right now, if you get serious about a 326. There are of course other choices in that price range - Grizzly, Laguna, etc - and I`m sure others will mention those.

    Fred
    "All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."

    “If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Central Missouri, U.S.
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    1,263
    I imagine the Rikon 15% off thing will be available through other dealers as well. I have the 10-326 and am very happy with it. Regularly resaw 10" hardwoods, no problem. I think it would manage 12" but I've never tried it.

    If I had room, I'd probably run two saws.

  5. #5
    I have 3 36" saws set up at the moment.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    E TN, near Knoxville
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    12,298
    The utility of two might depend on what you use it for and how often you want to switch blades.

    I have two bandsaws for wood (not counting the Woodmizer sawmill). One is an older 14" Delta 115v with a riser block. The other is an 18" Rikon, 230v. Both will resaw 12" or a bit more.

    I use the larger saw the most, usually with a 1/2" 3tpi blade. I use it the most for processing woodturning blocks and blanks from green wood, for shaping dry blanks for woodturning, and for miscellaneous shop use (jigs, templates, occasionally flatwood projects, etc). I have a smaller blade on the smaller saw. The smaller saw in on a mobile base since my space is not infinite.

    Changing blades is time consuming, mostly to get the tension and tracking right and to reset the guides. If you have the space and money and consider yourself worth it, go for the second saw!

    JKJ

    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Lazar View Post
    Hey there folks,

    I'm looking at upgrading my bandsaw situation. Right now I've got a 14" Delta that's 3/4 HP and has about 6" of resaw capacity.

    I know for certain I'll go with something more powerful (have my eye on the Rikon 10-326) , especially for resawing. But I was wondering how many of you go with two bandsaws: one larger more powerful saw for resawing, and another smaller, cheaper saw for cutting curves.

    Of course I can go with one saw and just change blades. But time is my biggest limitation. The more time I can spend cutting and the less changing blades and calibrating, the better.

    Anyone out there rock two bandsaws? How does a smaller bandsaw work out if all you are doing is cutting curves? Thanks in advance!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    9,645
    I have a 14" Delta with riser and 1.5 hp motor. There are those that will tell you that it can do anything you need. And, actually, it can. But it sure can't resaw or slice veneer with enough speed to be called anything other than painful. I started making so much veneer that the pain just got to be too much, so I bought a Grizzly G0636X 17", 5 HP bandsaw. It has a very stiff frame and can easily put 30K psi on a 1" blade. With a 1" Woodmaster CT it slices 12" or wider veneer as fast as you can push wood through it. I leave it set up for resaw/veneer slicing exclusively. On the Delta I typically have a 3/8" x 4 tpi blade and I use it for everything else.

    If you are considering an upgrade to make resawing a pleasure instead of a pain don't settle for good enough, because that's what you already have. If you are going to the expense and effort to put another BS in your shop make sure it will truly meet your needs. For me, that meant at least 14" of resaw height and 5 HP. There are many folks, including me, who think you need around 1 HP for every 3 - 4" of resaw height. So if you want to efficiently saw 12" you need 3 - 4 HP. At 16", like my Grizzly, you need 4 - 5 HP.

    You will never regret having a saw with a heavy, stiff frame and plenty of power.

    John

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
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    Two bandsaws - one for resawing and one for curve cutting - is a great idea. There is a school of thought that a blade used for resawing should never be used for cutting curves to avoid taking the set out of the teeth while overheating the blade going around curves. Don't know if that is true, but it sounds reasonable. Plus a blade and saw dedicated to resawing would keep that blade sharper longer and you wouldn't have to change blades as often. However, I would agree that, if you are going to own a bandsaw dedicated to resawing, a larger, heavier duty saw, would be preferable; maybe an 18" or 20" would be the next step up if you are a frequent resawer. I'm sure there are at least several on the market in the 18" - 20" range that would suit your needs. Just never had a need for anything bigger than 14" to be able to recommend a brand or model.

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    SoCal
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    Two bandsaws here as well. I started out changing blades a lot. Wanted a bigger saw and foolishly sold the smaller saw after buying the larger one. Had to buy another smaller saw. I still change blades without much hesitation but, can leave my resaw blade on the larger saw most of the time.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  10. #10
    3 band saws here; 1/8" blade for smalls on a 12" saw. 3/8" blade on a 32" for furniture parts and a resaw with 1 1/4" blade.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    So Cal
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    I’d like to have a third bandsaw.
    I used to have two planers and two jointers ready to work
    I have one table saw, I hate table saws
    Aj

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    Griswold Connecticut
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    6,926
    Quote Originally Posted by Darcy Warner View Post
    I have 3 36" saws set up at the moment.
    36"! wow, that's gotta be fun.

    To The OP
    Yes, I have two bandsaws. A 14" Jet and an 18" Rikon. Having two band saws is a nice option.
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  13. #13
    This is great, thanks all. Question though, assuming I get a larger saw dedicated to resawing (which may be out of my budget, but that's another discussion), what's the smallest bandsaw you guys roll with for the curved cuts? I see these tiny 10" models, and assume they are underpowered, and more "toys" than truly useful machine. But then again I think we all dream and spend big when often we don't have to.

    Thoughts?

  14. #14
    Since that you already have a 14" saw, get new guides aimed at running a small blade. I am fond of Lennox 1/8"-14T and I run them with "Cool-Blocks" - graphite guides that run tight against the blade.

    Starrett makes a ball bearing guide with a groove that supports the blade which looks interesting, but I have not tried it.
    Last edited by Bradley Gray; 08-10-2018 at 4:44 PM.

  15. #15
    The smallest size that's sufficient for you will depend on how thick a board you want to cut curves in, and what kind of woods you use. The 10" Rikon gets good-enough reviews for what it is. My 12" JET cuts curves in 3-4" thick material when needed - I just slow down.

    Fred
    "All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."

    “If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”

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