[OP]
Member
I have a shooting board I completed recently and just got it dialed in to 90 degrees. I want to add the capability to do 45s, so I'm looking for suggestions on ways to accomplish that. I would like something that was easy to add on when needed, yet maintain the accuracy. Any ideas?
IMG_1262.JPGIMG_1261.JPG
Dennis
Contributor
Dennis, here is a thread of mine with a few replies showing ways of shooting angles:
https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?244777
Post #4 shows a piece clamped to my board for shooting 45º cuts. This piece can also be set on edge to work like a small donkey ear.
In post #12 James Pallas has two different set ups for shooting at 45º.
Here is a donkey ear of mine for shooting 22-1/2º angles for making an octagon:
https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?157217
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
[OP]
Member
Jim,
I was thinking about using some dowels or pins to aid in alignment and after seeing what you and the others did that may be the way to go. I think the first thing I'll need to do is get a larger piece for the basic 90 degree setup. Something that gives me room to drill holes for dowels.
Thanks,
Dennis
Member
This one Mike Pekovich demonstrates at 7:20 mins into this youtuber, might be the type of idea you're looking for.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eqWbgkl_ryM
Tom
Contributor
Jim, we can always count on you for a jig that works, and a great story behind it. Love it!
Dennis, my contribution comes from building shooting boards for a long time, especially ramped boards (the first one I saw was in Oz about 20 years ago), which showed progressive improvements over the years. I would argue that you should aim for a ramped board if you have a plane with a straight blade, and a flat board if you have a plane with a skewed blade. Not essential, but ideal.
The 45 degree cut may be made for either a short- or long edge. The fence may either be fixed or adjustable. What I liked to do is make the fence adjustable, so that this added adjustibility to the set up.
The fence is adjusted with the bolt on the far end, and the mitre fences are attached via a bolt in the centre ...
or, the fence can move to a specified spot ...
Add on a Donkey's Ear via the bolt. It also has adjustable feet ...
For picture frames, better still, use a dedicated mitre board ...
Regards from Perth
Derek
Member
Sleek feature, Derek!Originally Posted by Derek Cohen
The fence is adjusted with the bolt on the far end, and the mitre fences are attached via a bolt in the centre ...
Derek
Simon
Member
Mike P. seemed to have forgotten giving credits to that miter trick. It first appeared in Fine Woodworking 247 Methods of Work (with a new column name) June 2015. Few things could escape my eyes if they come from FW.
Simon
Last edited by Simon MacGowen; 08-04-2018 at 8:46 PM.
Contributor
I saw this on (I believe) a FWW video. I cut a groove in the shooting board and use a plastic speed square. The groove is set so just a bit hangs over the edge and the I trimmed it flush with the shooting board plane. I think the picture says it all.
Michael
20170329_170439.jpg
Contributor
Might also look into the one Paul Sellers made....even has a youtube video of it...
[OP]
Member
Thanks for the additional tips, now its time to get out there and get this done.
Dennis
Late entry
I have multiple 90 degree fence positions to allow for reach or stock width.
Shootingboard v2 (4).jpg
I have one 45 degree position.
Shootingboard v2 (6).jpg
And this is an add-on for mitering edges.
Shooting Board miter acc (1).jpg . Shooting Board miter acc (6).jpg
It just drops into the track and butts against the 90 degree fence.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
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