Jammed/Frozen Blade Holder Screw on Joiner

[Edward Weingarden]

I have a Jet 6" joiner that I'm trying to replace the blades on. One of the screws that tightens the plate against the blade cannot be loosened. I've tried an anti-seize spray (multiple applications over a few hours) without success. I then tried heating it with a propane torch without success. The screw has a small square head which I'm afraid will strip if I keep persisting. Any thoughts/suggestions as to how to get the screw loose? Thanks.

[Mel Fulks]

I would give it a whack downward. Piece of hard wood between hammer and screw. If that fails go to vise grips then replace the screw.

[lawrence munninghoff]

Use Kroil oil and see if it will loosen it up.

[Edward Weingarden]

Thanks for the suggestions.

[Van Huskey]

Use Kroil oil and see if it will loosen it up.

Oddly enough given its cult following (along with being expensive) Kroil has come out near the bottom of all the objective testing, often barely differing from the controls. Liquid Wrench and Deep Creep by Seafoam consistently among the very best tested and have the advantage of being much cheaper and easier to find.

[Kevin Jenness]

Van, could you provide a link to the tests you reference?

I have used PB Blaster to good effect, with multiple applications and patience, and have seen acetone/automatic transmission fluid recommended, but I await the ultimate unfreezer.

[Van Huskey]

Van, could you provide a link to the tests you reference?

I have used PB Blaster to good effect, with multiple applications and patience, and have seen acetone/automatic transmission fluid recommended, but I await the ultimate unfreezer.

Acetone/ATF come out really well also it is just less convenient. I don't have the links off hand but they are ALL over youtube and you can watch their methodology and results, two that come to mind are from AvE (only for those that can handle string language) and Project Farm. The one thing that always stands out to me is the Kroil results compared to it near legendary status. I should mention heat does really well also BUT heat works better on nuts than captive screws like this, it is easier to heat just the nut than it is to just heat the cutter head in this case. I know some also tested a good whack but don't remember the exact outcome because I generally use the whack and penetrating oil together.

[Andrew Hughes]

I like the way kroil works and I like the smell.
Plus I can get right down the street
Maybe the you tubers aren’t using it right

[Van Huskey]

Maybe the you tubers aren’t using it right

Be aware not everyone came to the exact same conclusions and one reason you might want to watch their methodology.

[Bill Dufour]

I would remove the head from the bearings and use a torch to heat up the screw to about 350 F. Let cool and heat cycle it several times. By heat cycling the expansion difference between the male and female thread diameters will help break the rust or galling. A CO2 extinguisher is a nice spot cooler, any one in the house do paintball?
Bill D.

[Brad Patch]

I have a Jet 6" joiner that I'm trying to replace the blades on. One of the screws that tightens the plate against the blade cannot be loosened. I've tried an anti-seize spray (multiple applications over a few hours) without success. I then tried heating it with a propane torch without success. The screw has a small square head which I'm afraid will strip if I keep persisting. Any thoughts/suggestions as to how to get the screw loose? Thanks.

Ed,

This is a subject that is discussed occasionally on OWWM. The general conclusions are that allowing a liberal soak of Acetone and Automatic transmission fluid (more than a few hours) will help. Also replace the other screws so that they take away some of the tension on the one that's stuck. The other replies discussing heat may also be helpful. Patience is the key, the screw is probably hardened but if you manage to twist off the head you'll really in trouble.

[Darcy Warner]

Cut off wheel, cut it off, have it extracted and a new one made.

[Bill Orbine]

If still stuck after acetone/oil and heat/cold treatments, try the hammer impact driver. This is last stop before extreme measures.

[Larry Edgerton]

I would remove the head from the bearings and use a torch to heat up the screw to about 350 F. Let cool and heat cycle it several times. By heat cycling the expansion difference between the male and female thread diameters will help break the rust or galling. A CO2 extinguisher is a nice spot cooler, any one in the house do paintball?
Bill D.

here is a product called Freeze Off in the parts stores that cools stuff. Gently heat the head, then use the freeze off on the bolt, should come right out.
T

[Edward Weingarden]

Can't imagine what's more extreme than the hammer impact driver.