Red Oak Tearout

[Mike Hutchison]

Recently turned a handle for a tool tray I'm making to get the tin snips and aviation snips out of the pliers tray. Spending too much time digging through that tray.
Anyhow, I had a piece of Red Oak more than big enough to do the job and started in
turning. Could tell by what was coming off things weren't going all that well;
when I shut the lathe down to inspect the piece I was a little shocked at how bad it was. Fuzzy and 2 or 3 small size chunks taken out. Have had much better results
with 2-5 years stored pieces of local Florida oak species that I gotten from my yard. Did not expect this with "store bought" wood. I don't get to turn as much as I would like. I think the tool rest that came with the lathe is too short but don't think that is my problem. Need to have all my tools sharper than for turning Poplar or Walnut? Any input appreciated.

[Kala Raymond]

If I had to take one guess I’d guess that tool sharpness and or selection is the culprit. Roughing gouge to spindle gouge or skew out not to produce much tear out if any when properly sharpened. Even a very sharp scraper can leave a little tear in the wood especially if the wood is particularly ornery. Maybe a pic of the piece and the tool tip?

[JohnC Lucas]

tool sharpness and riding or gliding on the bevel are probably the culprit. The angle the wood crosses the edge can also do it. I have had Oak that cuts so hard it dulls tools but really not had a tearout problem.

[John K Jordan]

I agree with the others - tool sharpness is likely the problem. I've never had tearout on oak.

But another thing - what tools are you using? A sharp gouge or skew can leave an extremely clean surface on red oak (or almost any other woog except very soft/punky). It is important to "ride the bevel" properly. Light cuts are better.

A flat-topped carbide tool, a scraper, or a gouge/skew used as a scraper can leave a horrible surface, especially if the cut is heavy.

One thing that may help a little is saturate the surface with sanding sealer. Let dry then try again with a light cut. Repeat as needed. (Lacquer sanding sealer dries quicker than shellac.)

Another thing that might REALLY help is to get another turner to watch and advise or show you other tools/techniques. Perhaps there is a club nearby, or you state your location someone reading this might live down the street.

Besides what tool you are using:
- is this green or dry wood?
- is this a face or spindle turning?
- is the tearout on end grain, side grain, or both?

JKJ

[John Keeton]

My bet is that you were cutting "uphill" on the grain - and, probably using a dull tool.

[Mike Hutchison]

Thanks to all; will sharpen roughing gouge (that was the culprit) and make another
attempt on a piece of Red Oak.

[John K Jordan]

Thanks to all; will sharpen roughing gouge (that was the culprit) and make another
attempt on a piece of Red Oak.

Besides lack of sharpness, using a roughing gouge may contribute to the problem. A typical roughing gouge takes off a wide swath of wood at a time, often leaving the surface splintery and torn. If possible, try a smaller gouge such as a spindle gouge which might cut far cleaner, although it might require a bit more refined tool control. Let is know how things work!

BTW, I'm assuming you are cutting this wood in the spindle orientation, with the grain running down the bed of the lathe. Many people have discovered how dangerous it is to use a roughing gouge on face turnings such as bowls or patters. A wide cut on a bowl, for example, can cause a big catch. Since many roughing gouges are made with a smaller tang that fits into the handle, this the gouge can break at this weaker part. People have been injured by when the rest of the gouge is thrown from the lathe. There is sometimes confusion when a beginner hears a term like "rough out a bowl blank" and naturally thinks a roughing gouge is the tool to use. The industry and turners have tried to minimize this by calling a rouging gouge a "spindle roughing gouge". I suspect you know about this but I thought I'd mention it for the sake of others who might be reading.
http://www.rockler.com/how-to/cleari...s-woodturning/

BTW2, the Thompson 5/8" "roughing gouge" is a possible exception. It's made from a solid piece of 5/8" steel and the radius of the edge is small enough it can work very much like a large bowl gouge, although with a grind that is more like what was commonly in use 50 years ago instead of what is usually used today. I can get a very smooth cut on spindles with this gouge compared to a more traditional roughing gouge. But still, I reach for other tools most of the time.

This is the Thompson 5/8" roughing gouge and how I hold it in a handle. (With small stock I usually use it without a handle.)
Handle_adpater_alum_IMG_6001.jpg

JKJ