What do you store home made wipe on varnish in?

[Wade Lippman]

Varnish always comes in metal cans. Is that because it is light sensitive or oxygen sensitive? Or it is just traditional?

I am about to make up some wipe on, and don't have a metal can. I took a white plastic soap bottle and spray painted it brown. Stored in a room that gets no sun light, is that likely to be adequate? If not, where does one find a metal can?

I probably have stain I won't ever use; if it comes to that, but it isn't really user friendly.

[glenn bradley]

Mason or Ball jars used for canning. Inexpensive, readily available and come in a variety of capacities and mouth sizes.

[John K Jordan]

... where does one find a metal can?
...

I've bought empty metal cans from Home Depot and a paint store. You can also buy them from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...pty+metal+cans

Empty metal solvent cans with screw-on lids work nicely. (Old solvent cans are a lot easier to clean than old finish cans.)

I believe it is primarily the oxygen in the air that causes finishes to degrade. I don't know how much light contributes to the problem. Unless very thick or specially formulated, plastic will allow air to pass through the sides decreasing shelf life - metal will not. To make stored finishes last "forever", I displace the air in every can with inert gas each time I close the can.

JKJ

[Jay Aubuchon]

I use StopLossBags.

[Dave Bunge]

I also use the Stop Loss bags, available from Lee Valley, Woodcraft and Amazon.

I keep several different finishes in Stop Loss bags. I store all the bags in a 5 gallon bucket with a lid on it. The bucket keeps the light out and also serves as "secondary containment", i.e. will keep any spill from spreading if one of the bags fails. I should say that I've not had any bags that leaked.

The main reasons I use stop loss bags are 1. The finish stays fresh longer (due to ability to keep air/oxygen away during storage) and 2. The finish is easier to dispense from the bag than from a can.

[Brett Luna]

If you opt to use metal cans, you might want to take a look at Bloxygen. It's a spray can of pure, inert, compressed argon that displaces the air in the bottles and cans. All you do is give it a 1- or 2-second shot and put the lid on. I use it for finishes, wine, beer, port, and anything else that doesn't play nice with air.

I order mine on Amazon. Since it doesn't have any flammable propellant, they ship to me here in Alaska without issues.

[John K Jordan]

If you opt to use metal cans, you might want to take a look at Bloxygen. It's a spray can of pure, inert, compressed argon that displaces the air in the bottles and cans. All you do is give it a 1- or 2-second shot and put the lid on. I use it for finishes, wine, beer, port, and anything else that doesn't play nice with air.

As well as metal cans it works with plastic bottles and bags too. (Keeps TruOil from setting up - a huge endorsement.) I used to use Bloxygen until I switched to a spare tank of inert gas from my little welding shop. The cost of the tank and regulator is significant but the gas refill is incredibly cheap and one small tank will last for years, even when used on other non-shop things.

JKJ

[Richard Dooling]

I also use the Stop Loss bags, available from Lee Valley, Woodcraft and Amazon.

I keep several different finishes in Stop Loss bags. I store all the bags in a 5 gallon bucket with a lid on it. The bucket keeps the light out and also serves as "secondary containment", i.e. will keep any spill from spreading if one of the bags fails. I should say that I've not had any bags that leaked.

The main reasons I use stop loss bags are 1. The finish stays fresh longer (due to ability to keep air/oxygen away during storage) and 2. The finish is easier to dispense from the bag than from a can.

I have also used Stop Loss Bags with good results. They can be rinsed and reused until you feel it's worth going to a new bag. And I agree that it's easier than pouring from a can unless you are pouring a more than a few ounces.

Storing them in a 5 gal lidded bucket is a great idea. Although they are air tight, the ones I have found are clear. I've wondered why they aren't tinted or if the plastic is UV filtering. No mention on their website.

[John K Jordan]

I've wondered why they aren't tinted or if the plastic is UV filtering. No mention on their website.

At one time I attempted to find information on how UV light affected liquid finishes such as oils and varnishes. Although I've read warnings and claims from individuals that it does, I could find nothing from manufacturers or laboratories. However, nearly everyone was in agreement that oxidation caused finishes in cans and bottles to go bad, curing in the container. People go to great length to protect from air and the oxygen in it - filling cans with marbles, bags, inert gas, etc. - and it works.

If UV is not the problem it would explain why the bag company is does not see the need to protect from it. Perhaps someone can point to research or technical information about UV light and stored finishes. If not, it's probably safe to ignore it.

JKJ

[Dave Cav]

I'm a Mason jar guy, too, usually with a piece of waxed paper under the lid. I try not to make up any more than I need for a given project, but have stored it successfully for some months, too.

[glenn bradley]

I use StopLossBags.

I also use the Stop Loss bags, available from Lee Valley, Woodcraft and Amazon.

I keep several different finishes in Stop Loss bags. I store all the bags in a 5 gallon bucket with a lid on it. The bucket keeps the light out and also serves as "secondary containment", i.e. will keep any spill from spreading if one of the bags fails. I should say that I've not had any bags that leaked.

The main reasons I use stop loss bags are 1. The finish stays fresh longer (due to ability to keep air/oxygen away during storage) and 2. The finish is easier to dispense from the bag than from a can.

It is good to hear that you guys have not experienced any failures with StopLossBags. I had asked Lee Valley about storing General Finishes ARS in them and received the following reply:

"While these Finish Bags are meant for use with oil-, water- and alcohol-based finishes, they are not suitable for anything containing methyl ethyl ketone, lacquer thinner, or acetone. With the solvent and petroleum components in the Arm-R-Seal, we would not recommend storing it in these Finish Bags."

My bags have sat in a box unused as I fear storing almost any type of finish that I use based on this response. It seemed odd to me that the manufacturer would use materials that were problematic with these chemicals. Is LV off base on this one? What sort of oil based finishes are you guys storing?

[Jay Aubuchon]

What sort of oil based finishes are you guys storing?

Currently:

Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish
Wiping polyurethane: ½ Minwax fast drying poly clear satin, ½ mineral spirits
Penofin Ultra Premium Stain
Minwax Super Fast Drying Poly for Floors, gloss. V.O.C. compliant
General Finishes Seal-a-Cell, original wipe-on formula

[Dave Bunge]

What sort of oil based finishes are you guys storing?

I store Minwax wipe on polyurethane and Minwax Antique Oil in the StopLoss bags. I believe both use mineral spirits as their solvent. I also store Zinsser SealCoat, which is shellac + denatured alcohol, and I keep a bag of denatured alcohol.

I haven't had any issues with bags leaking. But, as I mentioned above, I store the bags inside a 5 gallon plastic bucket "just in case".

[Wade Lippman]

I bought some mason jars. Those using them, do you do anything to keep them from light? I heard about someone that puts a sock over them.

[glenn bradley]

I keep all my finishing supplies in a metal cabinet with doors.