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Thread: Breakfront Credenza

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    NE Florida
    Posts
    299
    Doors are full mortise and tenon. Gluing up the doors...since door openings were nice and square, shims were used to hold the door stiles and rails in-place for the glue up. I used clamps to draw the pieces together before putting the doors in the opening.

    door_glue_up.jpg
    Chris

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Leesville, SC
    Posts
    2,378
    Great looking piece of fine furniture....
    Army Veteran 1968 - 1970
    I Support the Second Amendment of the US Constitution

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    NE Florida
    Posts
    299
    thanks....
    Chris

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    NE Florida
    Posts
    299
    Installed the shop made base molding....

    basemolding.jpg
    Chris

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    NE Florida
    Posts
    299
    Installed molding that will be under the top as well as molding on the top drawers. Only the cove molding was shop made. The molding was glued and pinned in place with brads. I really need to get a pin nailer to minimize the nail hole as the brad nailer leaves much too large of a hole. If this wasn't going to be a painted project, I would have just glued and clamped the molding.

    molding2.jpg
    Chris

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    NE Florida
    Posts
    299
    Finishing the top....


    To get a nice crisp inside corner on the bump out, I could not just do an edge treatment with the router as the inside corners would be rounded. I did not want to apply as molding, because the cross grain sections would have to attached to allow for movement. Since this is going to be a painted project, the movement would result in crack in paint. So, this is how I did it....


    First I glued up the top to the depth of the side sections plus one saw blade kerf. I also made the bump out section (actually I made an extra). An edge profile routed on these pieces. I used blocks to prevent blow out in the back of the top.

    top and bump out.jpg

    I then ripped off the front profile:

    top ripped.jpg

    Next I mitered the bump out and the ripped molding section...Here is a test fit:

    top test miter.jpg

    Next i glued up the bump out section:

    top glue bump out.jpg

    Then the molding pieces made from the ripped off front:

    top test side front.jpg
    Chris

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    NE Florida
    Posts
    299
    Here is the top just sitting on the carcass:

    top in place.jpg
    Chris

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    NE Florida
    Posts
    299
    Before installing the molding on doors, I wanted to fit and hang them as clamping them for planing would be difficult with the molding. I made a quick drill guide for the hinge installation:

    door template.jpg

    Doors hung:

    door hung.jpg
    Chris

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    NE Florida
    Posts
    299
    After installing the doors, I removed them and installed the molding. I ended up rabbeting a 5/16 wide rabbet in the molding because I did not like the proportions of the molding installed directly against the frames. It was too wide of a look overall.

    door molding.jpg
    Chris

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    NE Florida
    Posts
    299
    Cut the panels for the back...I was originally going to do frame and panel for the pack, but I decided just to do a ply back as this piece already ways a ton.

    back.jpg

    I also installed the level feet. For the side posts, I used t-nuts and elevator bolts. For the middle section, I purchased some leveler feet:

    leveler foot.jpg

    These level feet have an hex socket so they can be adjusted from the inside of the cabinet. I was unable to install the back feet on the post, so I installed on the rail. You can see the access hole drilled in the bottom dust panel.

    leveler foot2.jpg
    Last edited by Christian Hawkshaw; 08-04-2018 at 10:18 AM.
    Chris

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    NE Florida
    Posts
    299
    On to finishing.....The first two coats are General Finishes Dark Chocolate "Milk" paint. I normally would not post so much detail on the painting process....but I figure I could share my pain with you.

    paint-dark chocolate.jpg

    Nothing like watching paint dry....3 coats of Antique White. I'm sure glad I purchased an HVLP sprayer earlier this year. Not only am I spraying the carcass, but three doors, 4 shelves, the top(which is not yet attached), and 3 drawer fronts.

    paint-antique white.jpg

    Next, my wife did the "distressing" with a little assistance from me. After "distressing", 3 coats of top coat were applied.
    Last edited by Christian Hawkshaw; 08-04-2018 at 10:26 AM.
    Chris

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    NE Florida
    Posts
    299
    Installed the stops for the drawers. I had a few cleats that I use for the top left over, and they worked out just fine.

    back stops.jpg


    Drilled the holes for the shelf pins....

    shelves.jpg

    Only thing left, was the installing the back, hanging the doors, and installing the knobs on the drawers and doors....
    Last edited by Christian Hawkshaw; 08-04-2018 at 10:33 AM.
    Chris

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