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Thread: SCM SI 16 SF small slider set up from scratch

  1. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Warren Lake View Post
    Not fussing with the riving knife at this point. It was shimmed out originally when i took the block off but I also thought it wont move far enough over the right so I can at least try having it press the material to the fence. hopefully this is sensible.
    I must be missing something important about the riving knife. I don't think it's a good idea to use the RK to press material into the fence, but I could be wrong. At least one thread on SMC discusses this and confirms it is not a good idea.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Central WI
    Posts
    5,666
    Kanefusa makes great blades but you are spending extra as a scoring blade isn't as critical. 120x20 is a common size and you can find good deals on ebay. I found split scorers in the $50 range and they perform as well as my more expensive ones. Keeping the ply tight to the table is half the battle. Split scorers include shims so buying them separately isn't necessary. You do need to make sure the width is adjustable to the width of your blade. Larger blades are at the top end of most scorers limit. conical scorers tend to be used on the big machines. Dave

  3. #18
    Mike you are not missing the point. They are new to me and I figured that is one thing they can do. As ive mentioned if I ever used anything it was a finishing nail. One aspect of it is that it keeps the material pressed tight to the fence. Its a welcome thing to have that constant pressure at times. The riving knife once I thought it through has to be centered as one aspect of it is that it stops the material from closing on the blade by being thicker than the blade plate. Off setting it to the right as i thought was done would interfere with that aspect. Ill just have to put in some time on it to know what I think.

    Dave thanks for the info on the scorer. ILl save that. I was going through the parts list and it might be the collar is the same as the one I do have. Ill clean that stuff up today.
    Last edited by Warren Lake; 07-26-2018 at 10:43 AM.

  4. #19
    back on setting up the sliding table and just taking measures. Started setting some stuff up last night and while some measures seemed good the parrallel to the blade was off and so it was running into the heal of the blade more. Adjusting that to be better puts it out of square to the blade.


    The sliding table rides on a bar so first though to me was that bar should be parallel to the table top to start this. It wasnt so shimmed up the rear end of it so that its the same. Its all a bit of jazz as there is some table sag at the worst around the blade its down about .005 so though twas make the bar parallel on the front and back and ignore the middle measures for now in the future it can be scraped flatter.

    If you want to get picky about this there is wear in the bar from the bearings. I think the best way would be to rotate the bar and have it precision drilled so it could go back on and the bearings ride on a fresh surface, there is some pitting n the bar as well which I can feel but its not perfect but okay as well.

    I put the size new bearings in that ride on this three in each block and had to take the blocks out when in turns changes the whole set up and how the table sits on the bar.


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  5. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Northern Michigan
    Posts
    4,973
    I have pretty much that same saw and my way of adjusting it was to clamp the sliding table to two bars also clamped to the table top. I had first loosened up all of the bearings and so now that the top was where I wanted it I adjusted all of the bearings individually, careful not to push the table. When I let it go there was still some minor tweaking, but not much. The manual was of no help, so I was on my own and that seemed logical to me. I adjusted the blade to the slider and the fence to the blade. Worked for me.

  6. #21
    having no fun with it, its easy to move stuff a few though with a dial read a change and reclamp but this is a flintstones system for the bearings, you change the height to try and adjust to just the table and you have just moved it out of square again. I thought things were good or potential good Yeah manual is useless be nice for them to have included some aspects of what they want you to do. An order would be nice as well. There are endless adjustments which is good but some interact others dont. IM at the point many hours in of just starting from scratch. With bearings its hit and miss then these bearings can sit different on the bar depending on how far out they extend before you tighten them. Ive always been able to set stuff up and very accurately. Lots of good things there but at the moment im not impressed.

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