Need Band Saw ADVICE PLEASE

[Jeff Miller]

First off .....I haven't been on this Forum in quite some time

Got caught up in Rimfire rifle shooting with my own 50 and 100 yd. range

Been over at the Rimfire Central Forums...So after about 14 rifles and scopes...4 handguns I need to get back in the shop

I have a fully equipped woodworking shop just setting there that needs used

I have been looking at the new 14" band saws and would upgrade from my Craftsman that a friend
Of mine comes over and uses and is willing to possibly buy....This is my saw if the pic. shows up






The two I am looking to replace this is the Rikon 14" Deluxe Bandsaw, Model 10-326





And the Laguna 14 - 12 Bandsaw




And I have a lead on This General International in like new condition
90-170B │ Deluxe 14" wood cutting bandsaw





The General is 2 1/2 hours away and she wants $1050.00 which I think I can get down to I would hope nine hundred.....Those of you that have this saw is better than the
other two I have listed.

Please give me all the feedback you experts can

And again It's good to be back

Hope this isn't too long

Thank you guys very much

JEFF

[andy bessette]

Found my Delta-X 14" in like new condition, with riser block, Kreg fence and extra blades for $450. Just another to consider.

[Van Huskey]

All three of these saws are a step up from the venerable 14" cast Delta and the clones. To a degree, the Rikon and Laguna question is somewhat of a coin flip, I prefer the Laguna because I like the guides better, even the upgraded guides on the 10-326. The guides on the 10-325 were rather poor. The GI is overpriced when new as it competes price wise with the 10-353 and 14BX 2.5hp both of which are better saws. It has some rough edges (like changing the blade is a pain and the fence is rather rudimentary in the class) but I am a big proponent of foot brakes on bandsaws. In the end if the GI is pristine I would take it at 900 or under otherwise I would get the Laguna but for some the money saved by getting the Rikon might be the tipping point in its favor.

[Phillip Gregory]

First off .....I haven't been on this Forum in quite some time

Got caught up in Rimfire rifle shooting with my own 50 and 100 yd. range

Been over at the Rimfire Central Forums...So after about 14 rifles and scopes...4 handguns I need to get back in the shop

You really need to get a few decent centerfire handguns, a good shotgun and a couple of remote-controlled electromechanical throwers, a pistol-caliber carbine, and a lever-action rifle chambered for some black powder-era cartridge or a revolver cartridge. You have a 100 yard range, it would be a shame to not use it

I have a fully equipped woodworking shop just setting there that needs used

I have been looking at the new 14" band saws and would upgrade from my Craftsman that a friend
Of mine comes over and uses and is willing to possibly buy....This is my saw if the pic. shows up

The two I am looking to replace this is the Rikon 14" Deluxe Bandsaw, Model 10-326





And the Laguna 14 - 12 Bandsaw




And I have a lead on This General International in like new condition
90-170B │ Deluxe 14" wood cutting bandsaw





The General is 2 1/2 hours away and she wants $1050.00 which I think I can get down to I would hope nine hundred.....Those of you that have this saw is better than the
other two I have listed.

Please give me all the feedback you experts can

And again It's good to be back

Hope this isn't too long

Thank you guys very much

JEFF

Those saws are one step up from your Sears unit. They are better, but not vastly so. Think of why you want a different saw.

If it's because yours is a Sears and you want something better, the ones you listed will be better, but a MiniMax or Inca is MUCH better. I have a Grizzly G0513X2 which is a 17" saw of similar construction and quality as the ones you listed. My Dad has a 14" Rikon which is probably the same unit you posted above, and apart from being smaller than mine, it's very similar. They are solid machines, not awesome, but solid. To get awesome you need to spend a bunch more money, but to be honest you are probably better off in spending extra money on getting better bandsaw blades.

If you want to resaw wood, you want a much larger saw than a 14" saw. You want at least a 20" saw and it should have at least 3 hp if it's a direct drive saw, or 5 hp if it's a belt drive saw. My 17" 2 hp saw with a 2 tpi/3 tpi bimetal bandsaw blade (largest it will easily handle) will resaw the rock-hard old oak barn boards I use in most of my projects easily up to about 4-5" thick. Most of mine are 6" thick and it will resaw them with no barreling or drift but it's a bit slow. Some are 10" thick and although the saw can resaw a 12" thick piece of stock, it's pretty poky resawing the 10"ers. I would have just gotten a big saw right off the bat but a big saw often has issues with running narrow blades for cutting curves, and my bandsaw is a jack of all trades saw, so I picked an intermediate size. It can handle a 1/8" blade OK and with a 3/16" or 1/4" blade, it is a very effective curve cutter.

[Frederick Skelly]

I have the Rikon 10-325. It does everything I ask of it.
Fred

[Matthew Curtis]

You really
If you want to resaw wood, you want a much larger saw than a 14" saw. You want at least a 20"

And why does anyone need a 20" saw in order to resaw? I am sure many people here resaw quite well with smaller than 20" saws. If I am wrong please everyone correct me.

[Phillip Gregory]

And why does anyone need a 20" saw in order to resaw? I am sure many people here resaw quite well with smaller than 20" saws. If I am wrong please everyone correct me.

The larger saws have more power and handle wider blades with coarser tooth pitches, all of which help with resaw performance. My experience with resawing with a 17" saw and in seeing videos of others using much larger saws, the larger saws work much better.

[Van Huskey]

And why does anyone need a 20" saw in order to resaw? I am sure many people here resaw quite well with smaller than 20" saws. If I am wrong please everyone correct me.

One can resaw on a 10" saw if you have the patience and are willing to put in some extra sanding time. Plus wheel size is far from the determining factor, my MM20 will resaw circles around my Delta 28-350 both are 20" saws and my MM16 is a better resaw machine than any of the welded steel 20" Deltas or the PM 8x series. There has probably been more resawing done (by hobbyists) on 14" cast saws than all the other saws combined. It just requires patience and preferably the optimal blade. The one place I will usually suggest at least a 20" wheel is if one wants to use a feeder, the tables on 20" saws are usually just big enough to (almost) comfortably add a feeder. In fact, I think the tables on most 20" saws are a little small. In the end, we all have budgets and find ways to make do with tools and machines that fit our budget.

[andy bessette]

I have a 20" Agazzani with 1" carbide blade for resawing. The 14" Delta is setup with a 1/4" blade for other work, so I never have to change the blade on the 20".

[Tom M King]

As another answer to the why bigger for resawing, with the best resaw blades available for either, a cut my 14" takes longer than 20 seconds to make, takes less than 2 with the 24", and the cut by the 24" has no less quality of cut. The larger the saw, the larger, and thicker, the blade it can turn with bigger teeth. Also, the larger the saw, the higher the blade speed. It's almost like two entirely different machines, and why many of us own more than one bandsaw.

[Nick Decker]

I have the Rikon 10-326, no complaints. I can easily resaw 10" hardwoods, but I've never used a larger saw so I can't say what the difference would be there. While I've used a 3/4" blade on it, it seems happier with a 1/2" or 5/8". The guides work fine, as long as you keep them clean. Being rollers, pitch and gunk will affect them if you don't pay attention.

[Jim Becker]

Getting back to the original question about the specific saws asked about...I agree with Van.

[glenn bradley]

I am wondering "why" the upgrade? If it is taller resaw then any of the three you mention will be an 'upgrade' and the more subtle differences will help you make a decision. If you do not need taller resaw capability, I do not see any of those saws as very big upgrade and would probably reconsider my reasons. Is there something specific about the C-man that is bothering you? If we know that, we may be able to respond better.

[Randy Heinemann]

I would also ask why you're upgrading. If it's because you don't get good resaw results, then I would suggest you check the saw setup first, including installing a sharp new blade, blade tension, where the blade is set in relation to the center of the tires, and the setups of all the guides. (Oh, and if the tires are worn, they might need to be replaced.)

There is a booklet (or DVD) that Carter Products puts out that goes through the setup procedure that Alex Snodgrass demos at every woodworking show I've been at for 10 years. The thing is this setup procedure really works.

There are certainly bandsaws out there that nothing will help them get better results for resawing and your Craftsman might be one of those. I own a Rikon 10-325 Deluxe (the predecessor to the 10-326 Deluxe). I had to upgrade to the tool less guides because they weren't available on the 325, but the saw, once setup like the Carter booklet describes does a fantastic job resawing. It really does have a lot to do with setup and a sharp blade. I'm sure either the Rikon or the Laguna will resaw well if setup properly and with a sharp blade.

I guess I'm just saying try redoing the setup first. Buying a $20 booklet from Carter is much cheaper than a new bandsaw (probably even a video on YouTube with the procedure on it). If that doesn't work and the Craftsman is still a dog (which it might be), you still have the booklet as a reference because, no matter which bandsaw you own, it must be set up properly to get good resaw results.

With regard to the Rikon, I never liked their fences but, again, I just bought the MagFence from Carter and I can just line that up where I want it easily. Because the saw is set up properly, there is essentially no drift to compensate for.

[Van Huskey]

This is a classic SMC thread. You gotta have at least _____________, you don't need to spend any money etc. The varied opinions and general lack of group think is what makes this forum stand apart, in a good way.

The OP's Craftsman ne'e Rikon is an OK saw but it certainly is in the upgrade arc of most semi-serious hobbyists. The motor is weak, the guides are fairly poor (difficult to adjust) and the fence is more a fence shaped object. One can absolutely make it work but the saws and budget he mentioned are a solid step up in most every way save for the throat depth. Keep in mind this was stripped down version of a stripped down price point saw. I tend not to get in the way of people spending their own money, just the opposite, but will help them spend it in the most effective way IMO. This doesn't usually involve saying things like just buy wood especially when it comes to bandsaws which I think of like routers: every shop should have at least three.

The OP should indeed take stock in what is motivating him to trade up. Can the shortcomings be remedied with the correct setup and/or blades, this is important because any saw he gets will require the same. The Snodgrass/Carter video is available on youtube and is solid info despite the fact I don't agree with everything he says and it is mainly directly to 14" crowned wheel saws, which is what the OP has and is looking at.

In the end there are a lot of saws in the 14" welded steel class and of the roughly $1k segment the OP picked the best and best value options. To do better in the new market he will need to move his budget up to the 1300-1500 range. Rikon and Laguna have historically gone on 10% off sale fairly regularly so if he waits he may either pad his pocket or possibly look at the next level up in their lines.