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Because this guy apparently rebuilds very concientiously, I think you will REALLY be missing the boat if you don't make somekinda funding arrangement w him to GET that DP.
Helluva awesome price in that condition.
WOW.
That elevation crank mechanism is a Godsend.
Gotta get it... Pawn Wife, Children, or Dog... in that order.. or do something anyway.
Marc
I'm pretty new here, not as as experienced as most. Please don't hesitate to correct me
Contributor
Originally Posted by Marc Jeske
I know. I know. Not that easy though. He is 4 to 5 hours away and I no longer have a truck so logistically it’s not as easy as when I got the saw a couple years back. If it doesn’t sell for a while longer I may have to figure it out but.............
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I’m in Massachusetts and I’d nearly take a road trip for that DP. It it functions as good as it looks. I have the same dp in non restored condition. Mine had some runout so I replaced the bearings and it still persisted. If not for the runout in my particular machine it is otherwise a very nice machine.
My guess is there’s a good chance that machine functions pretty well. I’d be renting a u haul borrowing a pick up or taking the suv and finding a way to get it home.
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Yup to the above.
Mine also has some runout.. measured one time, don't recall the amount....It used to bother me, just the kmolwledge of it not being closer to perfect, but has never caused a problem in any use.
Maybe someday I'll put some time into and figure it out.
Marc
Last edited by Marc Jeske; 07-27-2018 at 11:40 PM.
I'm pretty new here, not as as experienced as most. Please don't hesitate to correct me
Member
Honestly, people wig out way too much about runout in a DP used for wood. I get it is a badge of honor and a mark of a quality tool (or luck of the draw) but wood just isn't that exacting. Get a piece of wood 3" thick and drill 6 holes through it with a Harbor Freight press then drill 6 more with a high quality mill drill and try to decide which is which.
Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.
Deep thought for the day:
Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.
Contributor
You make an awful lot of assumptions. Like us using a drill press only for wood. And thinking you know better than those of us actually buying drill presses for ourselves.
"Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."
Contributor
When I can see the drill bit wobble, it is too much run out. My Jet was awful and no easy way to fix it.
I know that some like to rebuild old iron. Some rather spend the time making sawdust. It is an individual choice and no right or wrong.
Contributor
That’s been the problem with my grizzly. Visible and measurable run out that results in always having to monkey with the drill bit size to get the right hole when doing anything critical, in wood or metal. I’ve worked with the chuck and taper till I’ve managed to reduce it as much as possible but the run out can be measured on the spindle itself so not much you can do. Probably either a bad casting, poor quality bearings, bent spindle or any and all of the above. I manage with it and to just punch a hole in something it’s fine but one day I’d like something better.
If run out is an issue for you, measure it new to get a benchmark as it is not uncommon to mess up your DP by jamming a bit too hard, particularly a big circle cutter or hole saw. I know.
NOW you tell me...
Contributor
When I got it up and running my WT drillpress had about 0.01 runout. I got it down to 0.002 and decided that was good enough. This was a simple bend the quill exercise with a dial indicator and a bar clamp. BTW it is true if you jam a big bit you will bend the quill and lose the accuracy until you adjust it again.
Just take a accurate round rod like a piece of drill rod in the chuck then extend the quill as far as you can. Indicate the round so the big diameter is facing front. Use the clamp to bend the entire chuck back towards the column and a little extra. Remove clamp and see how much springback occurred. repeat.
Bil lD
Contributor
That "Delta" dp for sale looks like it may be a Walker Turner rebadged by Delta after they bought out Wt in the 1950's so they could make the WT drill press. I belive WT never mounted the switch on the front. WT did have an optional jackshaft to reduce speed.
I could be wrong since most DP's look pretty similar.
Member
Matt's PM VS is very nice. And that is a good price for a machine that doesn't require a rebuild.
My quiver of presses is now reduced to a single Clausing single-phase 15" VS 330-2640rpm which cost the same as Matt's when I bought it five or so years ago. Spindle travel is a bit on the short side at 4-3/4", and the low speed is higher than I'd prefer. But neither of those attributes has been a limitation for me. The best addition is fast depth of drill adjust, it is "hands down" the best attachment I've ever bought for the drill press (apparently vulnerable to surface rust). The VS PM or a 20" VS Clausing (6-1/2" quill/spindle travel - though a bit on the heavy side) ... would be great American iron for any woodworking shop.
The PM2800B is a pretty awesome package. The Nova Voyager also looks comparable - even better with that super-slow speed - though I have never used the press. In fact, this is the first time I'd seen the specs. I would seriously consider buying either of those machines over even a classic if budget allows.
"the mechanic that would perfect his work must first sharpen his tools.” Confucius
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That machine is very attractive ... thanks for the "long time use report." The fence looks very nice too. My fence uses clamps for adjusting and it is slow to adujst.
"the mechanic that would perfect his work must first sharpen his tools.” Confucius
Member
I just watched the video so this description of runout is helpful to explain what's happening.
That depth of cut could be really quite useful and is impressive. It could be a game changer (thinking tasks like countersink, especially in metal) but the adjustment steps of 5/100ths is simply unusable. Wonder why they don't make that to the thousandths?
"the mechanic that would perfect his work must first sharpen his tools.” Confucius
Member
For those of you following along at home, Bill replaced the stock depth stop rod with a piece of all-thread or a long bolt (as I can't see the top of it) as well as adding the fancy quick-release nut. The stock depth stop rod has conventional threads on the bottom that screws into the quill collar but larger-diameter Acme threads up above. I am not aware of any quick-release stop nuts that use Acme threads (although they may exist) and Bill's uses the standard conventional threads.
That is a good idea as the stock depth stop nut setup can be tedious to adjust very much as it takes a lot of spins of the nut to adjust the stop depth very much.
The 20" Clausing is about 600 pounds, so about the weight of a typical cabinet saw and lighter than pretty much any non-portable planer. It also breaks down into several manageable pieces easily so even those who have a basement shop where they have to haul things up and down staircases would be fine with that size of machine. It's a far cry from a mill or a decent-sized gearhead drill press.The VS PM or a 20" VS Clausing (6-1/2" quill/spindle travel - though a bit on the heavy side) ... would be great American iron for any woodworking shop.
I would also say to not overlook a traditional step pulley drill press. They are simpler, quieter, more reliable, and less expensive to work on than the Reeves drive units. Belt adjustments at least on my 20" Clausing are easy.
I would recommend also to get a 3 phase press. Fortunately most of the presses marketed toward commercial/industrial users were set up that way. One thing that will do that you can't do with any single phase press is to expand the total speed range available with a VFD. You either have a press with a 4 pole motor and the top speed is fine but the slowest speed is too fast, else you have an 8 pole "slow speed" motor and the lowest speed is fine but the top end is too slow. Using a VFD to run a four-pole motor at half speed or running an 8 pole motor at double speed gives you both the lower bottom and and the higher top end, plus some speed variability within a certain "gear" as well. Typically a 50% to 200% speed range is well within allowable limits for 4 and 8 pole motors of this size, and some can do much better than that.
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