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Thread: 80/20 Aluminum Extrusions

  1. #1
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    80/20 Aluminum Extrusions

    I am looking to make a new fence for my shaper and, "on paper", these extrusions look like they would make a nice fence. Not an Aigner, by any means, but something more than MDF of baltic birch ply.
    My question is this, Are they statistically flat enough to use as a shaper fence?
    I am specifically looking at the 40-80/20 series.

    Thank you in advance.
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  2. #2
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    Re flatness. Here's a link to the manufacturers specs for extrusions: https://www.8020.net/university-tslot, click T-Slot specifications. When I was building a router planer sled using aluminum extrusions I ran across this YouTuber, who uses extrusions for a table saw fence. His videos might give you some ideas. (No affiliation).
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OhZ5Mo9ma2U
    Last edited by Ted Calver; 07-20-2018 at 10:45 AM.

  3. #3
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    Ted

    Thank you for the video link.
    A month or two back Martin Wassner posted a tour of his facility, and how he made cabinet doors, and I really liked the shaper fence system he made.
    Mine won't be nearly as elegant as Martin's, and will be "manual", but based on his concept.
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  4. #4
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    I don't know if the specific profile will work for what you have in mind but if I was making some sort of fence I would first consider VSCT's machined extrusions, they are indeed flat and square 4 sides.

    https://vsctools.com/shop/product-ca...um-extrusions/
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  5. #5
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    Just purchased a section of the Fast-trac to use as a shaper fence, instead of the wooden fence halves that came with it. I wanted something that would accommodate the Clear Cut Stock Guides and these tracks have the grooves to allow this.

  6. #6
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    Van has your solution. Extrusions are not flat or true unless milled after the fact. VSCT now offers 80/20 stock that is milled. If you have a machine shop nearby, they could easily mill stock 80/20 extrusion for you as well. Your tolerances will be your guide.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


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  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Cutler View Post
    Ted

    Thank you for the video link.
    A month or two back Martin Wassner posted a tour of his facility, and how he made cabinet doors, and I really liked the shaper fence system he made.
    Mine won't be nearly as elegant as Martin's, and will be "manual", but based on his concept.
    Somebody asked about the fence, I took some video of just that as well.


  8. #8
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    Van
    That VSC Tools material looks pretty nice. I don't need but a single length, so the cost would be relative. Thank you for that information.

    Mike
    Who makes Fast-Trac? Is that bandsaw fence material?

    Martin
    That really is a nice system you "cobbled" together. I wouldn't be surprised at all if someday you see it being made commercially available. It's a definite winner.


    I have a small 3HP Delta shaper and the fence for it is just a total pain in the beHind. Every time it needs to be adjusted, it has to be tuned again. Keeping the faces square to the table, and in line with each other can be a trial. I've actually taken to using motor shims to offset the outfeed fence. It's easier to drop in two .050 motor shims behind the fence, than move that fence section out for profiling by using the OEM fence feature.
    My plan is to have the fence itself ride in the side rails. I haven't exactly figured out how to split the fence, so that the faces can be offset, but once I can get all the parts in my hands, it may become clearer.
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  9. #9
    Keep in mind that where ever the tracks run, the extrusion is slightly indented and not at the level of the top and bottom of the extrusion. I was going to use it as a table saw fence or router table fence, but that stopped me, as various profiles of a workpiece that would normally run on a flat fence, may be at the level of the sunken track.

  10. #10
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    I may have to adjust my concern. If the extrusion is just for the actual fence to clamp to as in the video the variations on plain ole' extrusions are probably OK. I thought the 80/20 was to be the fence for the material to ride against.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  11. #11
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    Derek

    The profile I'm looking at has T-slots on the back, but the front face is flat. It has a slight radius top and bottom, but that's it.
    When I saw Martin's design, I thought, why can't a "transom" style bridge fence be made. It would anchor to tracks on the sides of the machine, as Martin's does.
    The actual fence and transom bridge could be made out of 80/20 extrusions and as long as the extrusions are flat and machined to within acceptable tolerance for square, a simple, rugged fence could be made that wouldn't be limited by the physical dimensions of the OEM fence, and the pre drilled machine thread holes in the top of the shaper.
    I just really need a fence that when I'm done with it, and hang it on the wall, when I need it next, which could be months, that is square and true and I can just grab it and go.
    I really like the shaper I have. It's more than I'll probably ever need, but the OEM fence is very limiting, and not very well made. It's extremely frustrating to use it.

    Glenn
    Sorry for being misleading. My plan was to use either the 40-80/20 with the flat face, or the type with T slots on both sides and affix a UHMW face to it.
    I've never actually seen the extrusions, so I don't know how well they're made.
    Last edited by Mike Cutler; 07-20-2018 at 8:06 PM.
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by glenn bradley View Post
    I may have to adjust my concern. If the extrusion is just for the actual fence to clamp to as in the video the variations on plain ole' extrusions are probably OK. I thought the 80/20 was to be the fence for the material to ride against.
    I am also confused as to whether he is using it as an actual "normal" fence or part of the mechanism to build and outboard fence like Martin's. If it is an outboard fence and using it like Martin then standard off the shelf 80/20 is fine. If he is using if for the main fence bearing surface or the bearing surface for the outboard fence (like Martin's polished fence) then the machined extrusion makes sense.
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  13. #13
    I tried using 80/20 1530 as a table saw crosscut sled fence and it did not stay flat. It was flat when I built the sled, but a few months later it was not flat. Never dropped it, never had a kickback with it on, no visible damage. Just wasn't flat. I may cut it in half sometime and make a drill press fence with it.

  14. #14
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    Martin, that fence is pretty sweet!
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Arita View Post
    Keep in mind that where ever the tracks run, the extrusion is slightly indented and not at the level of the top and bottom of the extrusion. I was going to use it as a table saw fence or router table fence, but that stopped me, as various profiles of a workpiece that would normally run on a flat fence, may be at the level of the sunken track.
    I've found 80/20 to stay very straight, but this would be the issue I'd worry about for a fence. The overall face is flat, but where the slot is, the face bends in toward the center of the extrusion. This makes it act like a spring when a bolt is tightened into a nut within the slot. If your pieces were as tall or taller than 1", then it wouldn't be an issue.

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