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Thread: Mobile Base for Bandsaw

  1. #1

    Mobile Base for Bandsaw

    I recently took delivery on the Grizzly G0513X2F bandsaw and plan to put it on a mobile base. My understanding is that some of the bases block the lower cabinet door from opening. Is there a mobile base that allows for the lower door to open without obstruction? Thanks.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    Griswold Connecticut
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    I have an 18" Rikon on a mobil base. It's essentially the same build type. Mine is on one of the heavy duty Jet mobil bases. The pedestal base of the bandsaw is taller than the mobil base.
    I did have to put a layer of plywood under mine and bolt it and the saw to the base because of vibration. I have a very rough, uneven, concrete floor though, so you may not need to bolt it like I did.
    Whatever base you end up with, I would recommend 4 casters, and the ability to level. Those 3 wheel mobil bases are kind of tippy.
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  3. #3
    Thanks Mike

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Elmodel, Ga.
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    798
    I too would recommend a 4 wheel base. I have a Rikon that has the Rikon mobile base that uses the t-handle to maneuver around the shop. My shop is small and space is limited, so using the handle was a pain. I took off the part of the base that the handle hooks into and replaced it with a wheel similar to what Laguna uses on theirs. Much better in tight spots, but still tippy. You have to be careful moving it, but still works fine.
    My Dad always told me "Can't Never Could".

    SWE

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Camas, Wa
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    3,853
    Here is what I did with my G0513x2.
    20180720_055855.jpg

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Johannesburg, ZA
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    I have a Jet 18” on the Jet heavy duty mobile base, I also have ¾” ply in the base. The saw in the base was not rigid, this had to do with the two lockable castor wheel assembly in the front, I use wedges pounded into place with a 12 pound hammer either side of the castors, which makes the saw rigid.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    If the base of the saw is drilled and tapped, consider using the casters that place a solid foot on the floor when you're not actually moving it. The originals were Zambus, but there are a few clones around that are a little less expensive. The same type can be used with a shop made platform if the saw base isn't drilled and tapped and allows for a little wider, more stable footprint, too.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Hayes, Virginia
    Posts
    14,760
    I recommend placing your machines on 4 by 4's and using a pallet jack to move them around your shop. This isn't for everyone but everyone should at least consider it as an alternative and its probably cheaper in the long run over purchasing quality wheels or castors. I can move my 800 pound band saw with ease to any location in my shop and park it with precision. Some of my older machines that I have on castors I use the pallet jack to move them now because its so much easier.

    Just an idea...

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Duvall, WA
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    706
    Edward, I've got the G0513X2BF and bought the D2057A mobile stand to go with it...before I knew about the door clearance issue(><). But there is a simple solution--just as the previous Mike stated--add a supporting layer of wood beneath the saw so that the door bottom clears the top of the stand.
    Last edited by Mike Ontko; 07-20-2018 at 12:05 PM.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
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    2,005
    Could always build one. I built this one for my Hammer N4400 out of 4" x 6" pine a few years ago. LINK

    IMG_2527.jpg
    Last edited by Ben Rivel; 07-20-2018 at 3:00 PM.
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

  11. #11
    I used Footmaster leveling castors on my MM16. They work great! The saw is stable, yet moveable in any direction and can be lowered to its feet very easily. I'm going to use them on my J/P as well.
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_554.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Derek Arita; 07-20-2018 at 7:52 PM.

  12. #12
    Adding a piece of plywood sounds like the easiest solution. Thanks for all the replies.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
    Posts
    11,247
    Happy Owner.jpgThe best solution is a semi live skid design with a tow bar.

    All you have to do is to drill 2 holes for an axle and a couple of holes for feet.

    The semi live skid is the most stable, and handles almost any mass.

    Here's a photo of it on a bandsaw for my brother.

    Note the cool handlebar streamers I supplied

  14. #14
    Here's another one for ideas, thanks for the lever design goes to Bob Minchin
    bandsaw compressed.jpgSAM_0939.jpg

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    SoCal
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    I have a G0513X with the Shop Fox base. A piece of three-quarter inch plywood dropped in the base allows the door to clear.
    Last edited by glenn bradley; 07-25-2018 at 11:27 PM.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

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