Cabinet Joinery Method Question

[Terry Thillemann]

I'm building cabinets for my basement wood shop and need your advice related to the joinery.

FWIW - I'll be using 3/4" plywood to build frame-less cabinets which will sit on castors so I can move them around easily and potentially use them for infeed/outfeed support. I'm thinking of making them 36" wide but am open to suggestions if this would be prone to sagging.

With regards to the joinery, Kitchen cabinets have the top and deck between the left and right side panels; however, I wonder whether this is the best design for shop cabinets which will need to support a modest weight while suspended between castors rather than sitting on the floor? Will dominoes or pocket screws support it in this configuration? Should the top/deck be flush to the outside of the sides instead? What about the back, should I rabbit it into the sides with butt joint on top/deck or just use butt joints all around with dominoes/pocket screws?

I don't intend to put an enormous amount of weight on top of them but need them to be able to support a modest weight without sagging while also having shop items in the drawers. Thoughts???

[Lee Schierer]

From a maximum strength stand point you want the two sides to stand on the bottom panel. You want the top panel to lay on the two sides. The back should be set into a rabbet or inset into the back of the box for maximum rigidity. Fasten the joints with pocket screws and glue. Screw and glue the back in place.

This cabinet is 8 feet long and 2 feet wide. It holds several hundred pounds of material and art board. It has four heavy duty casters supporting it. It was assembled on site with just pocket hole screws every 3-4 inches along each joint.
craft_table4.jpgcraft_table3.jpg

[Terry Thillemann]

Thanks Lee and wow, I was worried about sag with 3-4’ and here you have 8’!!! Thanks for sharing and clearing up my doubts.

[andy bessette]

The strongest construction would incorporate 4/4 corner cleats at each joint, with the 3/4-ply screwed and glued to them. Avoid pocket screws for improved strength and workmanship.

[Tom Bender]

Wheels

Are wheels necessary? They will compromise strength, stability and volume.
If so, can you work with just straight wheels and skid them for turns?
If you spend more on higher capacity wheels you will never regret it.
Have your wheels in hand before finalizing your dimensions.

[Terry Thillemann]

Wheels aren’t necessary but allow me to easily rearrange in my existing shop, future shop if I move, and to roll out easily and use for infeed/outfeed. I have many of these casters which support 240lbs each.

http://www.rockler.com/3-heavy-duty-...optional-sizes

[andy bessette]

I'd lose the casters so your work surfaces are stable.