Can your lathe not single point thread?
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Can your lathe not single point thread?
Contributor
Glenn, +1 on what Jim (and others) said, Stanley used thread sizes almost no one else used. I have attempted to remove the stud you are talking about, and think I was successful, but it was a few years ago, and I don't remember for sure, but I can tell you I don't plan to try it again. Also, the hole size for the knob and tote are an odd size, so it is not only the thread size that is not typical.
Like some suggested above, I have thought about using one of the studs or machine bolts out of a Stanley plane and attempting to make it into a tap, but never have tried.
The knob you made does look good.
You can find Stanley plane parts on that auction site, but most of the time they are pretty pricy.
Stew
Last edited by Stew Denton; 07-17-2018 at 9:02 PM.
Contributor
Glenn,
One other idea. During WW2 brass was hard to come by, and Stanley made that adjuster knob with what appeared to be a threaded steel sleeve, and the rear knob portion that fit over the sleeve was bakalite, very hard rubber, or something of similar appearance.
You might be able to clean off the bakalite, or whatever, turn the sleeve true, and then turn a brass knob, milled to exactly fit over the diameter of the sleeve, and then expoxy the knob on, or something similar. (Silver solder?) Perhaps drill out your new knob to fit?
I don't KNOW if it will be possible to true up the sleeve or not, so let the buyer beware.
I just saw one of those WW2 knobs on that auction site for 8 or 9 bucks, or so. You will have to do some serious searching to find it, but as of a few minutes ago it was there.
Just a thought.
Stew
Last edited by Stew Denton; 07-17-2018 at 9:28 PM.
[OP]
Contributor
I think I’ll try making my own tap, the knob is only brass so it should be easy to tap. I’ve got some chrome/moly steel rod laying around so I’ll thread it to 9/32-24 on my lathe then cut some flutes in it like a tap has, grind a taper on one end and the harden it with a torch. If it works then I’ve learned something, if it fails I can still buy a new one and use my plane.
Thanks for all the ideas folks.
Member
Victor Machine Exchange Inc. has a lot of the odd ball sizes. Not sure if they have a 9/32 LH. They do have some of the taps and dies for the other odd staney threads.
Contributor
They didn't have one a few days ago. Their stock is always changing, especially on specialty taps and dies. They do have a minimum order, my last order it was $25. It is easy to find something on their site to make up any difference.Originally Posted by Kyle Fries
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
Member
Old anything is likely to have screws that aren't standard sized. The selection of screws and thread pitches that you will find in a well stocked hardware store are based on a standard the promulgated by the Society of Automotive Engineers in 1949. There were some earlier attempts to reduce the number of different screw sizes in use as well. Many of my planes are much older than 1949 and it is a bit much to expect something that might have been made in the early 1900's to follow a standard from 40 years or more later. Stanley established the sizes of screws they used early on and kept using the same sizes generally making the parts interchangeable.
I haven't had to deal with the knob you are referring to but have dealt with the threads for the screws holding on the handles. Most of the screws Stanley used are #12-20 and Victor Machinery Exchange has taps and dies for this. They also had #14-20 that I needed from one of my Ohio Tool Co. planes.
My general suggestion is you need to make a decision about whether you want to go on an adventure figuring out how to restore old stuff in which case it would be good to figure out where to get a tap. If you don't want to do that then buy one off of Ebay and be done with it.
Chris
Member
You could also go up a size, retap the hole, and make a new stud.
Contributor
Only if you are ready to run a bottoming tap into a cast iron frog.
So many choices:
- Buy a replacement adjuster from one of many sources including ebay, parts dealers or perhaps another SMC member. This will likely cost less than the price of the tap needed to do any of the other choices below.
- Hunt down the right tap for the adjuster that was already turned on the OP's lathe.
- Make a new stud of a different size, find a tap for that endeavor, retap the frog and drill and tap the adjuster.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
Contributor
Or take the path of least resistance and use the original adjustment knob as is. It doesn't look that bad to me. Still think it would be easier to make a stud, clamp it between centers and reknurl the existing knob if it's that much of a problem.
Contributor
It wouldn't even need to have a threaded stud, a mandrel could do the job.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
Contributor
PM an address to me, so I know where to send this "Extra"..
IMG_5101 (640x480).jpgIMG_5102 (640x480).jpgIMG_5103 (640x480).jpgIMG_5104 (640x480).jpg
1" diameter, LH Threads, knurling in three lines.
Will send out in a SMALL Flat Rate Box, via USPS....let me know....
Contributor
Yes, this came off of a Stanley plane....I was junking the parts out. It should fit that #3 plane.
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