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Thread: Salad bowl finish

  1. #1

    Salad bowl finish

    New here so go easy....have read zillions of posts on finishing salad bowls and will go with walnut oil and probably a wax overcoat but still not clear as to advisability of something before the walnut oil. Is there anything to be gained by using a sanding sealer before the last sanding? I have read lots but can’t figure out if this is a good thing or a waste of time.. if the answer is to use the sealer, what is consensus recommendation as to type or brand?
    thanks in advance for advice
    jeff

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    lufkin tx
    Posts
    2,054
    The walnut oil (not my fav.) is a penetrating finish--any sealer is designed to prevent this from happening. SS is designed to prevent a piece from absorbing too much lacquer--one coat of SS is equal to 5 coats of lacquer in sealing the wood and is great for this purpose. It is also very soft and sands down to help fill pores--all this prevents oil from it,s purpose.

  3. #3
    Thank you- makes a lot of sense....if I might ask, what is your fav?
    jeff

  4. #4
    I use pure tung oil for all my food prep items. Its not an instant finish though it can take from a couple weeks to a month for it to cure. Once cured i buff with bealls buffs.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    lufkin tx
    Posts
    2,054
    Like Chris tung oil is the best followed by Watco oil. Find pure tung oil and cut it 4 to one with paint thinner and it cure fairly fast--very durable and resists darkening very well.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Forest Lake MN
    Posts
    340
    Could you finish with just bees wax. I have finished non food bowls that way and like it, I am sure it would be food safe, not sure how well it would protect though.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Pueblo, CO
    Posts
    328
    I use a blend of bees wax and mineral oil for anything that makes contact with food. Heat the oil a bit, melt in the bees wax and pour it in a jar. When cool enough to handle, wipe it on and let it soak for a while. Wipe of the excess and you're done. Keep the jar of mix handy to refresh the finish when it no longer beads water on the surface.

    Mineral oil is a non-drying oil that will not go rancid like a vegetable or nut oil and the bees wax helps protect the wood. You could even start with a good soaking in straight mineral oil and add the blend coat later.

  8. #8
    The Doctor's Woodshop walnut oil, which has carnuba wax in it. Bees wax is too soft, and you can see finger prints.

    robo hippy

  9. #9
    Bees wax just makes a film on the surface. Tung oil soaks into the wood and when cured hardens the wood. My last step of buffing is with bealls carnuba wax.

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