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Thread: What epoxy/resin are you using to fill voids?

  1. #1
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    What epoxy/resin are you using to fill voids?

    I have a fair amount of experience with the pour on finish type epoxies, they color and take up fillers well, but the setting time is so long- it’s fine to pour on a table top and let it cure overnight but I’m having a heck of a time getting it to fill voids on round bowls without running everywhere. I even let one batch thicken in the cup to a syrup like consistency, taped off the voids with duct tape, filled the void and still the next morning it had run everywhere.

    I don’t think I want to use 5 minute epoxy, too thick to fill voids.

    What are you guys using? I’m basically thinking about using 30minute epoxy with pearl ex filler or other fillers. On roughed out bowls, fill the voids then finish turn.
    Where did I put that?

  2. #2
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    System 3 epoxy has a few options that might be helpful. They offer one called MirrorCast that is used for voids and punky wood in boats, etc. They also have another, (can' recall the name), that is a type of 2 part epoxy putty that is said to be good. I haven't used either one, but have used some of their other products with success. A good company and good customer service. They have several pdf's and such with a lot of information on epoxy and their products. I have contacted them through email and have always gotten swift and good advice from them.
    My Dad always told me "Can't Never Could".

    SWE

  3. #3
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    I use clear 5 min epoxy and add black dye powder to color it. I widen the crack a little and work it in. Does the trick.
    Don

  4. #4
    Rob, I assume you intend on the fill being done on dry roughy outs. Using color in voids has never appealed to me, though it apparently does to others. I use coffee grounds mixed with Titebond quite often to fill defects. When finished it has the appearance of a natural inclusion, and is especially attractive when the wood has “character.” It is easy to use, compacted with a small dowel and filled proud of the surface. I suppose one could keep the fill slightly below the surface and add a thin fill of epoxy and mica, or even mix brass key filings in with the final layer of coffee grounds. There are probably a myriad of other possibilities as well.

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  5. #5
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    I had some corncob polishing media for cleaning brass, I mixed up a cup of resin, and stirred in a about a half as much corncob as I mixed in resin. It turned that corncob resin to about the hardness of a rock. I used clear Simlar 41 resin mix. The next time I used some crushed walnut polishing media. One light color, the other dark, but definitely different. The good thing about corncob polishing media is you can also dye it different colors.

  6. #6
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    None of the normal epoxies I use will harden to the point that they sand and take a polish in less than 24 hours. I do use 5 minute epoxies a fair amount and they will harden in about an hour (yea I know they say 5 minutes but they just won't sand and polish well that quickly). What works for me is to heat them for about 10 seconds or less in the microwave. That shortens their working time so you have to work fast but it solves the problem of having to wait forever to finish a piece. What I normally do is to do all of my patching late in the day. I'll work on other pieces while the epoxy cures usually overnight. Then I can finish the piece the next day instead of trying to rush and get it done in one day.

  7. #7
    System Three Magic Gel is the "putty" ( peanut butter consistency) Steve Eure mentioned above. It cures to a translucent amber color and can be tinted or mixed with various stuff. It is good for turnings as it stays in place.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnC Lucas View Post
    None of the normal epoxies I use will harden to the point that they sand and take a polish in less than 24 hours. I do use 5 minute epoxies a fair amount and they will harden in about an hour (yea I know they say 5 minutes but they just won't sand and polish well that quickly). What works for me is to heat them for about 10 seconds or less in the microwave. That shortens their working time so you have to work fast but it solves the problem of having to wait forever to finish a piece. What I normally do is to do all of my patching late in the day. I'll work on other pieces while the epoxy cures usually overnight. Then I can finish the piece the next day instead of trying to rush and get it done in one day.
    I don’t mind waiting to finish the piece if I have to- it’s just keeping the epoxy in the voids until it sets. I have some 5 minute stuff on hand I use more as an adhesive- I’ll play with some of that I guess. It’s pretty thick though.

    I ordered a small batch of the Bob Smith 30min epoxy on Amazon as well, we’ll see how that goes.

    John K- I’ve definitely used coffee grounds here and there as filler, I agree it looks more natural, but I like a bit of color here and there on smaller voids too. It’s just finding the right medium. I don’t trust CA glue for anything more than a hairline crack. I hadn’t thought about wood glue with coffee, that has potential. I have a cherry burl bowl drying right now that I think would look great filled with coffee. I just didn’t want to experiment on it with untested materials. Wood glue makes a lot of sense as long as it doesn’t look like wood glue smeared all over the bowl.

    If that doesn’t work I’ll look into the magic gel.
    Where did I put that?

  9. #9
    Rob, when I use Titebond with coffee grounds, I mix the grounds and glue on a piece of aluminum foil, using only enough glue to create a paste that will hold shape. I then use a pallet knife, or even a screwdriver, to apply and push the filler into the crack/void/etc. followed by some light "tamping" with the end of a dowel of appropriate size to assure good compression and that all nooks and crannies are filled. The glue sets quickly and is invisible in the end result. The appearance is that of darker solid wood much as one would find in and/or around a knot. It cuts cleanly with no tear out or crumbling and I have confidence in the adhesion of the Titebond to the surrounding wood.

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  10. #10
    It’s not often I feel qualified to chime in with a whole lot of authority, but rotten, void filled wood is pretty much all I turn anymore...

    the problem you're having with the epoxy running out isnt in the product you’re choosing, it’s your technique. In order to keep the resin in place, you have to build a leak proof form and/or a dam around and on each side of the voids. After years of trial and error I have found that the silver aluminum ducting tape used by the HVAC guys is by far the best. It seals very well and stands up to the heat of the exothermic reaction from the epoxy. The next trick is to use hot glue around any and all seams you create with the tape. Epoxy will find it’s way out.... I promise.... but hot glueing the seams works.

    ive used just about every kind of epoxy and casting resin I could buy - system 3, 5-minute, dev-con, alumilite, you name it. It doesn’t really matter to the end result as long as you take the time to mix it really well and seal off the areas to be filled. It’s all in how long you want to wait for it to cure.

    7E59B412-F53F-4D68-AC7F-8E234E45D602.jpg7768D906-CE9B-44CE-A6E1-987D63517780.jpgADF68744-4CA7-4003-B649-306338E38420.jpg

  11. #11
    I think you are talking about system three Gel Magic. I have used it on a couple of projects and it works very nicely. You can color it etc.

  12. #12
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    Harold mentioned creating a containment basis for the resin to set up without spilling out. I, too, have created dams with tape, but another thing that's almost foolproof and fits into those little nooks and crannys is hot melt glue. You simply layer it up until you've reach a proper height.

    Russell Neyman
    .


    Writer - Woodworker - Historian
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  13. #13
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    Hot glue. Perfect. Makes total sense.

    I’ve tried masking tape and duct tape but the epoxy just seems to dissolve the adhesive of the tape. I do have some of that aluminum tape. I’ll try that as well.

    Several good tips. Thanks for everyone who chimed in.
    Where did I put that?

  14. #14
    I use West products for this.

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