I got a lot done over the past few days.
The lid is finished and ready to be hinged. I did multiple dominoes on each joint instead of the through tenons on the plan. With the full 3/4" panel, it's plenty strong. I had never seen or done a "groove in groove" raised panel before. I've always done traditional raised panels. It's an interesting option when you want more strength and easier to cut the joinery than a traditional raised panel.
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The sliding trays are all done as well. Here they are set so you can easily see into each tray's contents, showing my meager hand tool collection:
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Here they are slid to the back for access to my planes and saws:
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I still need to make the actual till for the saws. I'm probably going to buy a couple of western saws before I finish that part. The plane section is pretty well ready to go. The rear section that the book shows being used for molding planes is going to be for hand power tools in my case. I have my Bosch 1617 router with extra base back there along with my Makita drill and impact drivers.
Plan for this weekend is to get the top hinged, the side lifts on, and get any marks and pencil lines off. I'm also going to put a chisel rack on either the front or rear wall, likely the rear.
Might look into hanging the saws from the lid, instead?
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IF you look up old Carpenter's Tool Chests....you will see 2-6 saws on the lids..
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Mine now sits empty, and unused....except for the stuff that gets piled on the lid.
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anybody need a tool chest? No tools will be in it....easy to haul
Looking good Jason. Nearly there. I like it.
David
Looks like you're enjoying the project Jason. I like the looks of the natural wood but it'll be better off with a finish for some protection. I sure Like the whole layout. Hope you'll post a bunch of pics when it's completed.
Blair.
I'm doing milk paint on the outside, probably a medium blue color. The inside will stay natural and unfinished. The way my lid fits tight to the top of the box and the top tray, there's no room for a saw till up there.
I got the lid hinged tonight. The hand forged hinges I bought aren't rectangular, they have kind of a scalloped edge. I didn't even try to mortise in that same pattern, just did rectangular ones. That makes them look a little sloppy, but everything opens and closes perfectly. I really like the inside of the panel I used for the lid. I know some people don't like poplar, but I really like it when you can incorporate the green and yellow streaks. I even like the smell when you cut it.
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Would you consider a coat or two of shellac on the inside after doing all of the rest of the work? either way, good job and enjoy the chest for many, many years.
David
I also like working with poplar Jason. It is readily available in all the popular dimensions & is affordable in leu of more expensive hardwood for appropriate things. It's ideal for experimenting with in a variety of application. In our apartment my designated work area is relatively limited & have made a smaller sized work bench with a 1-1/2" top of MDF w/hardboard surface. I edged the top with 3/4" x 1-1/2" poplar with 2-1/2" front apron. I have designed an edge based clamping system which utilizes the whole top for holding rather than dogs & hold downs & your standard vises.(one metal vise). Poplar is a good wood for clamping to as it is hard but soft enough for none slip clamping. It planes & chisels so easily & is a pleasure to work. My benchwork jigs are also poplar for the most part. I like to use countersunk #6 drywall screws for this wood where it applies to this bench application & the like. Highly recommended. Like you, I enjoy the unusual about this wood regarding it's colouring. (an acquired taste ) All round good utility wood.
Blair.
Very nice work, Jason!!! Good job..
Jerry
Added the chisel/tool rack to the back wall tonight. I had a small piece of ash left from my bench build that was almost the perfect size. It gave up a little clearance for the trays to slide all the way back, but freed up lots of space in the trays themselves. From left to right, I have my chisels (Narex imperial set, old Sears for glue scraping, and a Veritas 1/2"), then my Wera and Klein screwdrivers, marking gauge, and dividers. There's plenty of extra holes to add more later as needed.
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I bought some chain at Home Depot to do the lid stay, but it is woefully undersized. I had it the way I wanted and noticed the lid kept gradually opening wider. It was pulling the links apart. It looks nice, but must have a very low rating.
Jason
Looking good Jason.
FWIW, Chris Schwarz abandoned his original chain (or it abandoned him):
https://www.popularwoodworking.com/w...r-a-tool-chest
Lee Valley sells a forged brass chain which is quite nice:
http://www.leevalley.com/US/hardware...=3,41419,41435
I used the short one on my archery case:
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Wall E World sells a package of chain. by Peerless #4745045. 15 feet of Jack Chain. Includes (4) Flower Pot S Hooks. Max load is 10 pounds. Made to hang large hanging Flower Pots. The package I bought for the Small Maple Blanket Chest last Spring was black chain.....I seem to recall a silver set, as well..
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Blanket Chest also had a Maple lid support. It rotated up to engage the "D" shaped keeper. When the lid was lowered, the support kept the chain inside the chest.
This is interesting and what I plan on evaluating when I get to that point: http://benchcrafted.blogspot.com/201...-lid-stay.html
Jeff.