Advice on top coat

[Robert Engel]

This is for a dining table.

Over a shellac seal coat.

I've got some Target EM 2000 semi gloss and 8000cv satin. I was planning on a couple coats of semigloss and then finish with satin.

Before I order anything can I use 8000 on top of 2000? Can't seem to find any info on that.

[Jim Becker]

Yes, you can top coat the EM2000 with the EM800cv, but why use two finishes? Just use the EM8000cv right from the start since you should already have benefitted from the "color" of the shellac already applied. If you "need" a little more amber, you can put a drop of dye in the EM8000cv.

[Robert Engel]

Thx Jim After reading the spec sheet, I was under the impression the 8000 would react with the shellac.

[Jim Becker]

Thx Jim After reading the spec sheet, I was under the impression the 8000 would react with the shellac.

None of Target's products like "thick" applications of the de-waxed shellac. Just use enough to do the sealing (I assume you used dye or stain) and move on to the TC product of your choice. When the shellac is put on too thick (which isn't the way shellac is supposed to be used, but is easy to do unfortunately) you can get some cracking. I've made this mistake a few times and know better. But I can attest that it's fine under EM8000cv...I did that with the giant "kitchen continent" (island) project I posted awhile back when I had to switch finishing products and wanted to insure that there was no bonding issue between the EM8000cv and what was sprayed before it and then leveled because it wouldn't lay down.

[Wayne Lomman]

As a general rule, minimise the different coatings used in a single job. Three different products is 3 times as many chances for failure. Follow Jim's advice to make it work. His comments about the risks with using a shellac seal coat are especially valid. Cheers

[Robert Engel]

I sprayed the shellac so should be no problem with coat thickness.



Thx guys.

[Jim Becker]

I sprayed the shellac so should be no problem with coat thickness.

For the future, don't make that assumption. One can apply shellac "too thick" via spraying, too...

[Robert Engel]

Gotcha ;-)

[Robert Engel]

Jim,

Do you thin EM2000 or is that only for a seal coat? I test sprayed it unthinned and seemed to go on fine.

On another note, I've got a kitchen cab project coming up painted I've used SW Pro Classic oil based in the past but I'm looking to go with a water based, faster drying product.

I'm interested in the lacquer based paint Target has.

Any input or experience on using that? How about heat/humidity?

Thx your advice is appreciated.

[Robert Engel]

Just saw the post that pretty much answered my questions!!

[John C Cox]

Even though it's theoretically dewaxed - please do a surface cleaning to ensure it actually is.

Another thing... You may need to very gently sand the shellac with a fine sandpaper to "rough up" the surface so the Target finish will stick....

I have had issues with some finishes peeling back off shellac prepped wood - and it turned out to be due to "dewaxed" can shellac not being *totally* dewaxed.... And also the final shellac surface was very slick and just needed to be lightly sanded with P400 or P600...

Last thing.... Be sure the shellac is dry dry dry. Try to imprint it with your fingernail... If it imprints into the shellac (not denting the wood - testing the finish..) - it's not dry enough. If in doubt - let it dry longer because you don't want to risk finish adhesion issues...

[Robert Engel]

Check on all of the above. I lightly sanded with 400 & already done the bottom didn't notice any issues.