Drilling holes in thin wood

[chris carter]

What are the options for drilling holes in thin wood using a brace? Obviously auger bits will split the wood. Are center bits really the only option? And if so, will they work in a standard brace or do you really have to have one of those extra-old-timey braces with the thumbscrew? Are there any other options or work-arounds?

[Pat Barry]

Curious, how big are the holes, how thin is the wood, how close to the ends?

[William Fretwell]

Make your thin wood the filling in a thicker wood sandwich clamped together.

[Jim Koepke]

Curious, how big are the holes, how thin is the wood, how close to the ends?

That makes all the difference in the world in determining the way to achieve one's goal.

jtk

[Warren Mickley]

What are the options for drilling holes in thin wood using a brace? Obviously auger bits will split the wood. Are center bits really the only option? And if so, will they work in a standard brace or do you really have to have one of those extra-old-timey braces with the thumbscrew? Are there any other options or work-arounds?

I have done this lots of times with auger bits. For a clean hole, you want to score it from both sides. Make a pilot hole with a twist bit or something that is large enough to keep the lead screw from exerting splitting pressure. Score lightly from one side, then turn it over and score the other side.

With thin stuff all the cutting is done with the spurs only, and you really don't need the lead screw action to pull the bit through. It is helpful to have length at each end of the stuff, so leave extra. Or, if you are doing multiple pieces, cut the holes in a long strip then cut apart.

[Al Launier]

Make your thin wood the filling in a thicker wood sandwich clamped together.

This for sure!

[chris carter]

I have done this lots of times with auger bits. For a clean hole, you want to score it from both sides. Make a pilot hole with a twist bit or something that is large enough to keep the lead screw from exerting splitting pressure. Score lightly from one side, then turn it over and score the other side.

With thin stuff all the cutting is done with the spurs only, and you really don't need the lead screw action to pull the bit through. It is helpful to have length at each end of the stuff, so leave extra. Or, if you are doing multiple pieces, cut the holes in a long strip then cut apart.

Thanks! That makes perfect sense. So essentially the pilot hole is the same size as the largest portion of the screw so the screw really does nothing besides keeping the bit centered and the threads don't actually "engage" the wood? I will have to grab some scrap 1/4" and try this out.

[Derek Cohen]

As Warren mentions, I would also be scoring from both sides. The Owl auger bits have three spurs and cut a little cleaner than other augers.

The alternative, if using a power tool, is the ensure you use a backing board, and a quality brad point bit. Colt make the best versions.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[matteo furbacchione]

without knowing what thin is, so I'll assume <1/4". If I were to use auger bits I'd clamp the piece between two sacrificial pieces and drill through all three. If clamped well the middle piece will come out unscathed with a nice clean hole. You could also pre-drill a hole that is a bit less than the auger screw, thus having to displace less wood and reducing the tendency to split...

[Bruce Haugen]

Make your thin wood the filling in a thicker wood sandwich clamped together.

^^^^^ this

[lowell holmes]

I use a hand crank drill with a spiral bit.

[chris carter]

A big thank you for all the advice! I just drilled some test 1/2 and 5/8 holes in some thin wood using the pilot hole method. I found a spiral bit that matched the base of the lead screw for the appropriate auger and drilled that first with an egg beater. Then I switched to the brace with the auger. Not only did it work, but it worked incredibly well! I was able to drill a 5/8" hole 3/8" away from the corner of a 1/8" piece of oak.