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Thread: Greene & Greene picture frame

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Morocco Indiana
    Posts
    181

    Greene & Greene picture frame

    After the LOML finished her 5 day Art Glass class at Marc Adams School (taught by John Hamm - a VERY skilled guy) she got a certificate that I wanted to frame for her. Since she fell in love with the G&G glass, I figured a G&G frame would be appropriate. So I picked this:
    frame 7.jpg
    Not having any idea what size the frame was, I set the horizontal inside dimension to 10 1/2" and scaled the rest of the frame. I liked the proportions.
    2018-07-07_20h58_14.jpg
    Today I found a walnut board I liked, milled the pieces, mortised and tenoned them, and taking the advice of Darrel Peart, used a block plane and sand paper to round over. And I agree with him: gives a subtle different look than routing the round overs. Made a template for the top rail cloud lifts, and here we are.
    20180707_080535.jpg
    The top has not been rounded yet - want to wait until the routing is done. At this point I realized I really liked this frame and would be making more of them so I wanted a routing template that I could re-use. The top and bottom are 3/4", while the sides are 5/8" which gives that depth that I think is really cool. So this is what I came up with:
    20180707_080621.jpg 20180707_080637.jpg
    So once the frame is glued up, I can clamp both templates in place and do the routing. The 3/4" mdf on the bottom of the template fits snugly between the "ears" of the frame, and registers the template on the side rails.

    So now the questions: as you can see, the mdf between the 2 openings in the templates is pretty thin. Will a wood hardener, Like Minwax or PC Petrifier help make the mdf a bit stronger, or will it just make it more brittle and likely to break? Next, the ebony will be 1/8" thick and I'm worried about test fitting it and then having it break when I try to remove it. My plan is to make duplicates, or at least leave the tool setups alone until I'm done. Also wondering if you wise, Yoda like folks have any advice on the process of breaking the edges of the ebony before final assembly, besides sand gently, very gently. Also planning on using glaziers point to mount the backing in the frame unless you have another suggestion. Back of the frame has not been rabbited yet for the glass, so there are possibilities.

    Thanks for any and all suggestions, kids.
    Bill
    If it wasn't for the last minute, nothing would get done.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Bucks County, PA
    Posts
    117
    Bill- nice looking frame. I apply a slight chamfer to the back of the ebony splines on the belt sander. For the plugs I use Darrell’s method of a sharp chisel to chamfer the back edges.

  3. #3
    I would cut a "plug" to fit into the opening I was not using and then move it over for the second cut. This will solve your problem of the delicate material between the slots that will be under stress during the operation. I do similar things when mortising for square plugs on delicate fingers of drawers and such. In that operation I can clamp the proud finger.

    GnG Low CoD (179).jpg

    In your operation you will fill the unused void and then switch to make the second slot.
    ...et's talks about your car. It's screaming "Wash me, please!"

  4. #4
    What I have done for test fitting splines is to mill the same size slot on a piece of scrap (same species as the final project). Measure the width with a dial calipers. If it is nominally 1/8 then the slot will probably be a few thou larger (let's say 0.128 as an example). Then plane a test piece of ebony to about 10 thou wider than that: 0.138. This piece doesn't have to be a full spline, just long one long enough to get a valid test.

    To get the back bevel I just put a piece of sandpaper on the bench and swipe the ebony on a few times. The angle isn't critical. Then test fit the scrap pieces together. Refine the ebony thickness as necessary. It should be tight fit so that you compress the edges of the walnut.

    Your intuition is correct that you DON'T want to have to pry the thin ebony out of your final piece, since you risk both breaking the spine and dinging the walnut.

    For breaking the edges, I've done it by hand sanding and I've done it by using a wide thumbnail cutter on a small shaper. I'm not very good at making jigs for holding such small pieces and the shaper kinda-sorta worked but in the end I just did most of mine by hand. You can make a small gauge out of cardboard to test that you are getting the round over consistent. You could also try a scratch stock. I haven't used on on ebony so I don't know how well that works, but I may give it a try soon. I have to make splines today, in fact.

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