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Thread: Wood Choice for Workbench

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Saratoga NY
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    64
    I used southern yellow pine 2 by 12s that I cut up for legs 3 plus feet and top 8 plus feet and split to 2 by 6 on table saw for my Roubo. Like someone mentioned it is a good balance between harder and softer woods at a great price
    Roubo Top - 1.jpg

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Dickinson, Texas
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    7,655
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  3. #33
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Location
    Colorado Springs area
    Posts
    1
    Happy 2022
    The year of rmbench build. My 1st workbench build.
    Shop is a small area (15×20 )in my 3 car garage Need advice on wood and style..
    TOP - 6/4 BEECH or other and why not Beech (I have some I bought years ago at McClendons in Atl.
    BASE: Oak or other and with just stringers or a solid tray base ( My current Grizzly bench is just a place to accumulate small tools and shaving/dirt
    Any advise is greatly accepted and appreciated.
    BTW - At least 1 vise is a 20" InKline turbo I'm excited to incorporate.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    MA
    Posts
    2,252
    I built mine out of an Elm tree that came down on the back of the family farm. It is quite ornery to work with (twists, moves, a lot of residual stresses), I do not recommend.

    But such a bench takes a fair bit of lumber and once I got it together (with some walnut and cherry contrast), it looks good and functions very well. I can not imagine what it would cost paying retail for hard maple. But those are beautiful benches.

    I am of the camp: build it from the materials you can get your hands on.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Alaska
    Posts
    711
    I was planning to use a 6" X 12" gluelam for split top bench. They are typically built with doug fir.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    65,675
    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Drew View Post
    I was planning to use a 6" X 12" gluelam for split top bench. They are typically built with doug fir.
    What's your plan to surface it so it's flat and smooth? It will be stout for sure...but the nature of the material will be a challenge to get it prepared. "Dinging" it could result in splinters, too.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  7. #37
    Join Date
    May 2021
    Location
    New Hampster, USA
    Posts
    130
    I think most people who were going to the trouble and expense of building a split top Roubo with $1000 of high-end Benchcrafted vises wouldn't cut costs on the lumber. Beech and maple are the standard species. Lumber prices and availability may dictate your choice. Currently, ash is less expensive than all other hardwoods and even eastern white pine where I live so if I was building right now I might consider ash. Fir is too prone to splintering IMO but obviously some guys on this thread are loving it. My bench is rock maple, my dad's is beech, and I like them both. I can't seem to find a fir bench on the Benchcrafted or Sjobergs websites.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Alaska
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    711
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    What's your plan to surface it so it's flat and smooth? It will be stout for sure...but the nature of the material will be a challenge to get it prepared. "Dinging" it could result in splinters, too.
    I figure that whatever wood I use for the top, I'll need to flatten it. My initial thought was to use a router sled.

    The idea to use a gluelam came to me after reading Christopher Schwarz's book THE ANARCHIST’S WORKBENCH (great book BTW, and the can be downloaded for no cost). He goes into great detail about wood to use and two he recommends using are yellow pine and doug fir. Buy good, dry construction lumber. Preferably 2x12's and rip them in half, machine them and then laminate them. That's basically what a glulam is, and it's dry.

    I'm very curious why you think this would be more prone to splinters?

  9. #39
    I used Hard Maple, easy enough to flatten with a sharp hand plane.

    4582E66B-B851-4491-9FE3-02105489C1F0.jpg

  10. #40
    I made this 3" hard maple bench about 25 years ago. It has been my primary work surface all these years.

    I flatten it with a No. 7 every five years or so. And I don't notice it's not flat.....it just seems like it's the right time to do it.

    I've tried different finishes over the years. The last time, I used a water based General Finishes product. No other reason than I had some on hand...and I like the non-ambered look of the maple.

    IMG_20200720_111707 (1).jpg

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,675
    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Drew View Post
    I figure that whatever wood I use for the top, I'll need to flatten it. My initial thought was to use a router sled.

    The idea to use a gluelam came to me after reading Christopher Schwarz's book THE ANARCHIST’S WORKBENCH (great book BTW, and the can be downloaded for no cost). He goes into great detail about wood to use and two he recommends using are yellow pine and doug fir. Buy good, dry construction lumber. Preferably 2x12's and rip them in half, machine them and then laminate them. That's basically what a glulam is, and it's dry.

    I'm very curious why you think this would be more prone to splinters?
    My mind was picturing a manufactured product rather than what a glulam really is. My appologies. If you can get the material, it can certainly save you time over laminating your own.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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