Tile Backsplash

[George Bokros]

I will be installing a tile back splash in our new kitchen. It be 2" x 4" tile but attached to a mesh like mosaic tile. The counter is L shaped with a 12 ft run down one wall and an 8 ft run down the other wall.

Where would you start the tile....

1. Middle of each wall? and work toward the open end and the corner?

2. The open end on each wall so the only cut tiles are at the corner?

There is a window in the 12 ft wall but not in the middle of the wall run.

Years ago my father tiled a bathroom and the wall that was at the back of the tub you started at the middle of the wall so that the tile at the corners was equal size. The tile on the end walls started at the outside so the only cut tile was in the corner.

In my situation I am inclined to start at the open end and work toward the inside corner.

Thoughts, opinions? Is there some general rule?

Thanks

[Jim Becker]

What you want to do to help with this is measure the tile length plus one joint and then divide that into the actual physical measurement of your walls so you can make the corner look "natural" with your spacing. You don't want to end up with "sliver tiles" there or on the ends. I'd probably start the actual tile work in the corner, but that's me. I assume you have appropriate loose tile or mesh panels to finish the open ends? They usually have one or two rounded edges.

[Lee Schierer]

I started on one end and worked to the corner. I used the double sided adhesive tile matt for attaching the tile to the wall. It has been 10 years and we've not had a single failure. It was sure less messy that thin set. We also used the epoxy grout that was being sold by Lowes. It is completely stain proof once it cures, yet initial clean up was with a damp sponge.

As a hint, if your tile is mounted to a paper backing and you have to make cuts with a wet saw. Let the cut piece dry before you attempt to handle it much or to stick it on the wall.

[andrew whicker]

My corner isn't very visible, so I started at the edges which are really visible. I put my sugar and flour containers in the corner. No one sees it.

[Bill Orbine]

Cant you lay the tiles on the countertop and see how it would look? This would help you visualize how the tile ends into the corner, next to window and obstacles like electrical outlets/switches.

[George Bokros]

Cant you lay the tiles on the countertop and see how it would look? This would help you visualize how the tile ends into the corner, next to window and obstacles like electrical outlets/switches.

I like this suggestion but will have to bridge the sink and the range to do so but 1/4" ply should do the job nicely.

[George Bokros]

What you want to do to help with this is measure the tile length plus one joint and then divide that into the actual physical measurement of your walls so you can make the corner look "natural" with your spacing. You don't want to end up with "sliver tiles" there or on the ends. I'd probably start the actual tile work in the corner, but that's me. I assume you have appropriate loose tile or mesh panels to finish the open ends? They usually have one or two rounded edges.

Excellent suggestion Jim. In my case with the length of the long run at 1451/2 " that is 11.9 sheets of tile on the long wall and 7 .88 sheets on the short wall. So if I am correct if I start at the outside ends and work toward the corner the corner will not have little slivers of tile but I will confirm when I get the tile and this mounted on mesh or hot glued together and there could still be a little sliver but I doubt since the length of the tiles are 4" so .88% of two inches is ~ 1 3/4" it should be fine on the short run and 90% of 2 inches on the long run is ~ 1 3/4" also it may work out.

If I am missing something please chime in and let me get straight.

Thanks

[Jim Becker]

The "most ideal" joint in the corner would have things such that whole tiles and half tiles would end right at the joint, making it look somewhat like the tiles are wrapping around the corner. But you also have to pay attention to the "bare" end so that you look fine there, too. Reality will generally be a small compromise in that respect. So measure and calculate (remembering that the grout lines count in the measuring part) and figure out what will look best for you.

[Wayne Lomman]

Following on from what Bill said, set it out before you start. It takes minimal effort and the time is won back later in the job. Good tile jobs are always marked out in pencil on the wall so there are no surprises. It doesn't need every tile marked but enough needs to be marked so that the guesswork is taken out. It will make the difference between a tile job and an excellent tile job. Cheers

[Jim Becker]

I absolutely agree with Wayne...

[George Bokros]

Thanks for all the help everyone. Some good info was shared. I plan to lay the tile out to make sure there are no little slivers at the corner or the open end.

[Stephen Tashiro]

It be 2" x 4" tile but attached to a mesh like mosaic tile.

To other knowledegable craftsmen, it's an impressive feat to use one size of tile and execute the work so that there are no tiny pieces of tile.. However, to the "casual observer", I think a design that uses also a larger size tile to make transitions at edges and borders can be just as impressive.

[Bill Dufour]

Consider using a strip of coved tile at the inside corner. Makes it easier to clean and it may help with the spacing issues.
Bill

[Chris Stephenson]

I used to lay tile for a few years. It comes down to preference, I would draw out a couple of options using scale to see how it'll look and get the sign-off (drawing the final version on the wall really helps you visualize it). It sounds like you're using a subway 2*4 or similar style; with those, I always took the cut off when I got to the corners and placed them on the opposing side of the corner to ensure it looked like one full piece and flowed nicely. You can do the same with a sheet of mosaic. Start right on the top of the counters and work up towards the underside of the upper cabinets as it'll be easier to hide if the walls/cabinets are not level.

For backslashes, I recommend the pre-made mastic as it holds really well and less of a mess. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Custom-B...OGA1/100284548 Be sure to review the trowel size based on your tile and the mastic you choose

Depended on your grout line size, you'll probably want to use non-sanded grout. Be sure to seal the grout after it sets.

Good luck

[George Bokros]

Thanks for the tip on the mastic Chris. I was planning to use mastic and your recommendation is welcomed. Grout lines will be 3/16" I believe. Yes these are 2" x4" subway but they are held together like mosaic but with what looks like hot glue dabs.