Update on the Apothecary Chest

[Derek Cohen]

All the drawer fronts have been dovetailed. I spent some time preparing the drawer bottoms and drawer backs for next weekend.

Here is a very short video to illustrate the angles involved in the dovetailing ...



Regards from Perth

Derek

[James Pallas]

Looking very good Derek. I'm also interested in your approach to the drawer bottoms because of the progressive shrinking across the miter at the front. Plywood? Deep groove at the front?
jim

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Jim

Deep groove for the drawer front. Then add the curves and refresh the groove.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jim Koepke]

Fun to watch.

jtk

[James Pallas]

Thanks Derek. With the drawers as narrow as yours shouldn't be a problem. Years back I made a desk with slanted front and drawers. The two top drawers were 14" wide and I was truly amazed how much difference that miter made. Been gun shy ever since.
Jim

[John Kananis]

Derek, loving the video action - looking good.

[Pete Taran]

Derek,

While it has been interesting following the discussion about how you tackled the angled dovetails, it just occurred to me was it even necessary?

It just hit me that instead of all that hi-jinx, you could have got some 8/4 stock for the front and dovetailed the drawer side straight on like normal, adjusting where the sides fit in the excessively thick front. Then once that is complete, just mark the front as you have already shown and bandsaw to match the curve. The added bonus would be the drawer would be square inside and it certainly would be easier to dovetail the sides. Had you considered that option?

Pete

[Kees Heiden]

I think that would give you terribly thick drawer fronts Pete. I once saw that in a hotel room with some fake antiques. Those overly thick drawer fronts looked awfull, very amateuristic.

[Derek Cohen]

Derek,

While it has been interesting following the discussion about how you tackled the angled dovetails, it just occurred to me was it even necessary?

It just hit me that instead of all that hi-jinx, you could have got some 8/4 stock for the front and dovetailed the drawer side straight on like normal, adjusting where the sides fit in the excessively thick front. Then once that is complete, just mark the front as you have already shown and bandsaw to match the curve. The added bonus would be the drawer would be square inside and it certainly would be easier to dovetail the sides. Had you considered that option?

Pete

Hi Pete

This came up earlier. Briefly, two more reasons why not: firstly, I do not have access to 8/4 stock, but even more so, the grain run out would be great, and the fronts would look unmatched. I would then have needed to veneer the fronts. The run out has been minimised by angling the fronts.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Brian Holcombe]

Derek, beautiful work!

[Pete Taran]

Kees,

Not sure how the drawer fronts could look amateurish when they are hidden inside the case that they fit in. It's a moot point if Derek can't get 8/4. Just a thought.

[Vincent Tai]

I think Kees is talking about a case where the front was band sawed off but the inside face was left untouched. That would look pretty thick on one corner and not very balanced looking in general, causing raised eyebrows when you use the drawers. I'm just guessing though.

Vince

[Kees Heiden]

Yes indeed Vincent. It is always difficult to express your thoughts and understand another one’s in these kind of threads.

[James Pallas]

Sometimes you end up with those thick drawer faces on things like bombes or block fronts. They always look odd with the drawer open with the drawer closed they look wonderful. In Derek's case he makes very legitimate arguments for his design, grain matching, material accessibility etc.
Jim

[Jeff Ranck]

looks fantastic. This is coming along very well. Well done on a very complicated project.