Needs some Finishing Help

[john schnyderite]

I'm making some mitered box beams out of oak and have some finishing questions

1) the miters didn't align and glue perfectly. What is the best route for filling the gap in a way that will finish well? I was thinking of trying sawdust mixed with some wood glue, but wasn't sure if the glue in it would lighten the finish in the filled areas when putting on stain or other finish..Is this the best method?

2) I tested some stain and dye on a scrap and used some white grain filler. I like the dark contrast that stain gave the board, but the filler didn't work all that well. Does the stain fill the grain so fillers don't gaps to fill? Any workarounds?

[Robert Engel]

Wood fillers are not usually going to give good results with this, and with future wood movement, will result in cracks.

There are a couple techniques I use:

1. Glue in a thin sliver of wood.

2. Use a gap filling glue like epoxy. Color with dye or acrylic paint. Some need to be thickened. System III 5 min epoxy it is thick enough right out of the bottle.

3. "Kill the wood" by gently hammering the wood fibers closed (fill crack with epoxy first)

[john schnyderite]

Thanks, is this in order of your preferred technique for best results? I would assume 2 & 3 wouldn't take stain well, but could work for dye?

Any comment on the grain filler? I just stained or dyed, then applied the filler -- not sure if it would work better with sealer before filling...or if I could fill first, then apply my stain. Open to suggestions.

Wood fillers are not usually going to give good results with this, and with future wood movement, will result in cracks.

There are a couple techniques I use:

1. Glue in a thin sliver of wood.

2. Use a gap filling glue like epoxy. Color with dye or acrylic paint. Some need to be thickened. System III 5 min epoxy it is thick enough right out of the bottle.

3. "Kill the wood" by gently hammering the wood fibers closed (fill crack with epoxy first)

[Jim Becker]

The best choice is ALWAYS filling with wood and/or wood slivers when that's possible. No shop made "sawdust and glue" or commercial filler product will ever look like, stain and/or finish like real wood. Nature of the beast...

[Steve Schoene]

Let me add to what Jum has said. A sliver of the same wood, taking care to keep grain running same direction is always best. But if you are forced to use a filler of any sort be sure to do the stain and first coat or two of the top coat BEFORE adding the filler. In this way the filler can at least be colored to match the finished stain. There are no fillers that will take stain the same as the wood.

[john schnyderite]

So I guess glue in a tapered sliver then hand plane to match?

Does burnishing the edge also work? I've seen videos where it looks great, but haven't seen anyone actually put stain or finish the edge.

Let me add to what Jum has said. A sliver of the same wood, taking care to keep grain running same direction is always best. But if you are forced to use a filler of any sort be sure to do the stain and first coat or two of the top coat BEFORE adding the filler. In this way the filler can at least be colored to match the finished stain. There are no fillers that will take stain the same as the wood.

[Jim Becker]

John, where I've used the 'sliver' method the most has been in hand-cut dovetails which unless one does them day-in-day-out will always have some small gaps. These gaps become completely invisible. The smallest cracks I don't even use glue as the finish will deal and seal. But what Steve mentioned (and I forgot to mention) is pretty important...make the slivers match the grain direction, including any end-grain if applicable, and you'll have similar results that disappear. Only you will know there were originally any gaps.

[Jim Morgan]

So I guess glue in a tapered sliver then hand plane to match?

Does burnishing the edge also work? I've seen videos where it looks great, but haven't seen anyone actually put stain or finish the edge.

Made some Stickley posts (qs ray fleck on all four sides) for a bookcase a while back & burnished the corners to correct some minor gaps with no ill effects on finishing.

[john schnyderite]

Made some Stickley posts (qs ray fleck on all four sides) for a bookcase a while back & burnished the corners to correct some minor gaps with no ill effects on finishing.

Thanks James -- the burnishing worked great. Closed my gaps without affecting the dye absortion.

I did however miss glue in one area..the dye looks even across the area, but has a little sheen when the light hits it in a certain way -- im assuming this is glue. This is my first time working with dye -- if i sand it out, will i be able to get the dye to match surrounding areas?

As mentioned earlier, I'll be adding grain filler which gives a bit of a waxy look and may hide the sheen. Not sure if I'm better ignoring it. It is a rustic box beam I'm creating so imperfections aren't as detrimental.

Hoping some can chime in on their thoughts on best way to proceed.