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  1. #61
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    I really only do this for the toys!

    Quote Originally Posted by Ted Calver View Post
    Yup. It's a great build thread and an even better cool toys thread! Really enjoyable. Please keep 'em coming!

  2. #62
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    Yeah the ebony these HNT planes were made from is exceptional.

    Quote Originally Posted by Marshall Harrison View Post
    HNT?

    That is some beautiful looking wood.

  3. #63
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    Feb 2015
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    I started the day getting top carpcass panel dominoed together.

    As always I did a dry run clamping the piece together. Everything went easy peasy and looked perfect. As a result I ďfiguredĒ the glue of would be a piece of cake.

    Well I was wrong. Once I put glue in those cardboard domino mortise the mdf turned to mush resulting in the dominoes sheering the walls of the mortise and pushing the waste to the bottom of the mortise and this not allowing for the joint to close.

    It took everything I had to remain calm and find a soolution before the glue setup. Lots of cruising insued and I had to continually tell myself to breath maintain my composeur or I was gonna loose the piece.

    Loosing the piece would had been a disaster as I have no more veneer. Anything I do have left is allotted to the project to finish it.

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  4. #64
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    I then needed to fine tune the solid cherry top prior to assembly.

    I got a few Japanese Kanna a little over a year ago now. I spent the better part of a week setting them and all my chisels up. I have not used the kana much as they really do require a intimate understanding of the tool. I’m way to busy most of the time with actual work “not play work” to risk what I know my LN planes can do with ease.

    Today I took the risk, mostly on account of working with cherry and the Kanna be well suited to the task.

    I really gotta start using these tools so I can become more familur with them.

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  5. #65
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    Once that was done it was time to predrill my side panels for the army of screw that will hold this giant pile of mdf crap together.

    I used the domino to bore slotted the holes for the solid wood to to allow for movement. The top is secured on its far back side to the back panel with screws. The back panel is dadoed I not the carcass sides, this holds the top from being able to move backward within the carcass. The tennon of the top is cut short by 1Ē on both its front and back side allowing for the cross grain movement within the dado that holds the top.

    Bet you didnít think Timberlocks were gonna make an appearance in this build did you. Or wait you did donít you lol..

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  6. #66
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    It was then time to finally start putting things together and making a box.

    And yes I know the grain is not a perfect wrap form the iside to back panels. As said I ordered butt matched veneer and didn’t get it.

    I also burned the midnight oil and started padding out the exterior of the side panels with 3/4 mdf to accept another full 3/4 side panel. With the interior panel being 1” I’ll fishish with a full 2.5” front exposure.

    I. Loathing how the heck I’m gonna veneer up the the whole exterior of the piece. I’d be tempted to use contact cement but as far as I know that is a big no no.

    If anyone has and insight they can offer to a high and fast tack veneer glue I could use that would be great. To date I have been using specialty veneer glue. I can’t remember the name or brand. It’s a powder and you mix it. Actually I ran out of that and started using the titebond veneer glue.


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  7. #67
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    So the race is on now. This thing has got to leave my house tomorrow morning. Yikes it’s 10:30 and I still have to wait for the last side panel to dry, de clamp, finish trim routing and then veneer the face of the whole thing.

    I’ll start by just posting pictures of the carcass all built without the exterior veneers. As the pictures show I used 1” mdf for the interior panels. That decision was driven by the hardwood I inlaid into the interior of the interior carcas sides for the tambour to travel it.

    Anyway this was followed by a build out with 3/4 x 4 mdf rips just glued then routed to copy the interior panels. I then glued up two solid or full 3/4 sheets and router those again to my previous work. Once this was done I felt like I had finally gotten somewhere. Still I knew I have a long way to go.

    Oops I didn’t get pictures of the project at this stage so I will share a picture of the next stage. As you see the carcass now has solid exterior side panels.

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  8. #68
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    So the unit finishes at 53.625Ē wide. Somehow I missed ordering a sheet of veneerwith the grain running the long way. We built and whole kitchen and batch and another office for this project much of it qs cherry. I may have figured we would have a off cut left over. Well we did not so I had to improvise.

    We still had a bit of hardwood stock left so I decided the fastest and least expensive option was to make my own veneer. Having never made my own veneers before this sounded good in theory but I feared it might prove a disaster.

    I got through without any issues. It was actually quite easy and Iíll never hesitate to make veneer again. Iím sure my boss will not allow,it to just buying it but..

    I stared by jointing two sides then taking a slice off on my new MM S500P. Mana o man that saw aid a beast. I was slicing veneers with no feather boards no power feed no real supposition whatsoever other than my tow hand and getting slices I could rpeetible put a caliper on. Wow is all I can say, every time I,pony up big money for a high quality tool I think ďsee all you naysayers that say Iím nuts for spending big on toolsĒ good tools really are a dream to y]use and make a huge difference imop in frustration levels and this also quality of work.

    Anyway pictures..

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    Donít hate Iím not perfect. I see that seam and small lamination placed to the front of the carcass as apposed to the back. I also know I could have sized my veneer pieces accordingly asmto get equal size veneers.

    I and mishap when applying the glue. My veneer was hanging over the edge of my bench unknowingly to me and the downward pressure of roller split what should have been the front right corner. With glue already spread on the carcass top and 99% spread on this veneer and not a extra piece anywhere I had no choice. I spun the piece putting the split at the far back left corner and settled on that small slice of veneer being at the working side of the desk.

    This whole thing turned into a real panic as I had never worked with non paper back veneer before and my veneer started to roll up like a wacky tobaky cigaret. I was so on the verge of panic but I just stayed call got my veneer tape setup and taped the split back together. At this point I was sure I was screwed.

    Anyway I got the cowls and claps on took a deep breath, said a quick prayer ďIím agnostic lolĒ and moved onto the next task. I love the stress and nessesity to be able to refocus even under pressure building fine things can bring. Actually I love it and Iíd say it abount the only reason I do this other than $$$. Who am I kidding Iíd do this for free. As soon as I donít have challenge I get board and move onto the next thing. Here is to me continuing to find ways to challenge myself as a woodworker as 9m far from bored yet.

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  9. #69
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    With the top out of clamps I could start thinking about veneering my carcass sides. This was a piece of cake with the paper back veneer. Nothing to seam, nothing rolling up like a cigar yada yada. I will say I’m less than impressed with that fact you can see the paper backing where two sheets of veneer comes together.

    Another part of this project is all QS Euro syscamore and at the corner joints it looks like a faint black line against this bright white lumber. It’s just terrible imop but I’m also a perfectionist. Well I strive to be a perfectionist and I extreme;y picky. I admit my mistakes ,try to limit them, always fix them when I can but always notice the slightest screw ups.

    Yeah I know the veneer on the carcass sides runs at a crazy ark. I tried to straighten it out the best I could. Without getting into it let’s just say I did the best I could with the material provided.

    If you look closely you will see a tow of eyes about 3” form the back side of each panel. I didn’t have the width to cut these little black eyes out and if I straightened my lines out the panels would go from having those eyes on the panel to completely off. The desk does have to box cabinet style carcass that go wall to wall so the case I’d only really exposed 3: top to bottom along the front then from standard counter height 36” up. Still t]it was my option this was my best option. I’m also very disappointed that the butt matched custom order veneer payed up on the short was not even close to butt matched resulting in the grain not wrapping all the way around the piece without interruption. Not even close actually. Another reason to make my own veneer if I’m ever buiding for myself or my own client with deep pockets

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    I should be able to go take the other panel out of clamps by midnight, Jerezo boss nothing like putting the pressure on!
    Last edited by Patrick Walsh; 07-18-2018 at 11:05 PM.

  10. #70
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    Somehow I missed this whole thread, I gotta stop staring at my shoes or something.
    Really nice work Patrick 👍
    Aj

  11. #71
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    Thanks Andrew...

    Well I’m a failure, but I already knew that.

    1:21 and just out of the shower. If I tried to do the FF tonight I’d mess something up. The project deserves more consideration than that kind of recklessness imop. Probably not my boss though, I think at this point as long as it dine and the client is happy he could care less. I think that is always his reality though. I suppose I respect that though as the guy keeps me fed and in a nice life.

    Tomorrow is gluing tambour to backing then rebating the back till it works properly. Also moving it out of my shop and back to work and finishing the veneer work. I think I’m gonna make a veneer for the top rail being as previously mentioned I don’t hsbe s piece long enough at this point.

    Tired but not tired, gotta be up in 6 hours..

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  12. #72
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    Well another ones finished.

    I learnt a lot building this piece. Namely all things that pertain to building a roll top desk. I will revail my dirty secretes one at a time. I’m sure just by looking at pictures of you many will shake their heads or think how did you miss that. Some I missed others I was aware of from the beginning and just doing what I’m told.

    I have t admit to some extent I do have the freedom as the builder to make suggestions based on what I the build might know or see that a architect client or boss may not.

    So this past wendnesday I lugged this giant piece out of my shop Nd back my place of employments shop. Man Is this thing a tank.

    I had yet to finishes applying the veneer to the face of the whole unit. I tried and failed Tuesday night to d]call the carcass done. I worked till my eyes bleed Tuesday night tomthe tune of 1:15 am. I’m on hour 67 this week alone. Either I’m slow or this is no box cabinet.

    Anyway 9monly have a couple pictures of the tambour. I had made the slats a few months ago. I’m;eft them sandwiched in the jig used to glue them up as my boss pulled me on and off this project like three times over three months.

    The architect requested a 1 ish “ flat slat with a slight chamfer.

    So I set off figuring out a radius that these could travel through. With the interior dimension of the desk being 47.5” I decided the slats needed to be a minimum of .625” thick. I ran them in a .5” dado.

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    The bottom slat is oversized per the request of the architect. It’s 2x1” in order to travel through the radius of the track it had to have a tenon the size of the smaller slats. It also has to be put in from the front. The fabric of the tambour was left long. Basically the overlised slat will ge threaded inserts. I will then sandwich the fabric between the slat and a piece of hard plastic of sorts.

    Anyway enough on the tambour.

  13. #73
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    I go the tambour in and working a charm. A little wax does wonders from what I have learnt between buiding this piece and the mock up I made to crest the radius and figure out the exact dimensions of the slats and dado that makes the track.

    Sadly to my suprise I got the tambour in, stood back as excited as I could be to look at my masterpiece and my heart sank. The giant gaps where the top turns the radius was not expected or part of the plan.

    Well thatís not all true. When I made the mock up a few months ago I remember the top rail was slightly to short cover the radius where it travels under the top rail. As a result I adjusted radius and increased the face frame exposure. The first mock up had a the tambour retuning into the desk top without the second radius where the top goes back vertical prior to returning into the desk.

    Per the drawings provided many moons ago I had told the architect that I could not get the slats to travel through the lower radius=ius per his drawings without making them tiny. His solution was to do away with this radius and return the tambour into the desk top at the same angle it comes out from underneath the top rail. As a result the architect added these up slightly bat ear kinda things to the side panels. Will draw up picture at a later date and take a photo of it. Itís hard to explain but it was hideous!

    In the eleventh hour I decided to make the radius work even though it created more work.

    Anyway I screwed up cuz in such a event as this second radius I should have known I need tot use radiused slats not flat ones with a slight chamfer.

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  14. #74
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    The pictures above will also show the loose veneers we sourced for the project and requested a perfect butt match are not even close I’m equally disappointed in this. I’m Also disappointed the grain is not very starlight and in the 33.5” depth of the side panels o]i could not get a straight or level line. When it came to veneering the face frame today I had very little veneer form the side panels yet I still had to work very hard to straighten out the grain so it did not run across the face frame at a angle.

    The lesson here is make your own veneer. My boss would never allow for this as I’m sure he could never make a dime on such a project. I’m sure he made nothing on this one so....

    The other lesson was radiused slats if the slats travel through a radius track that is not obscured by the carcass. I just think this 180% half round slats are ugly as can be. The fact is so isn’t what I created using the flat slats in a exposed radius track.

    So here are pictures I really don’t want to share. I’ll do it anyway though as it’s the honest thing to do and honesty is very important to me.

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    I’ll get pictures of the two carcass that flank the left an right sides of this tomorrow or after installation if I happen to be back onsite to see it installed.

  15. #75
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    You made the best of a less than optimum situation and still made it look good. From a distance, the gap in the tambour slats at the lower radius jumps out more than the veneer issues and made me ponder, in hindsight, on what might have been done to make it less noticeable. Perhaps a tad less severe radius or maybe just a graduated reduction in the width of the few slats in the radius area? From a design standpoint, would seeing the reduction in slat width please the eye because the designer recognized the issue and took steps to accommodate the severe radius?
    Last edited by Ted Calver; 07-22-2018 at 8:41 PM.

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