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Thread: Dining table advice

  1. #46
    Peter, thanks, that's cheap, easy, and effective. From what I can find online, you use them near the four corners on each side of the corner. Is that how you do it? For a 7' table it seems like I might want one at the middle of the long side?

  2. #47
    Join Date
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    Carlos, on my 3' X 8' table there are 7 on each side and 3 on each end. I can't say if it's overkill. I didn't make the table. It was made by an Amish craftsman. I'm the second owner.

    Consider you'll, likely, be lifting this table to move it from time to time. With the weight of the legs and apron and the torquing of the legs due to the weight of the table, this will put pressure on the aprons as well as the leg attachments.

  3. #48
    I put them 8" to 12" or so apart down the length of each skirt, whatever looks about right. You can replace the centre clip at each end and put one pocket hole screw in each end skirt since the wood will expand equally on either side of it. All others get the clips. You could even put a cross member between the long dimension skirts and put clips there to keep the middle flat if you really want to overbuild it.

  4. #49
    Great ideas. This table is for a neighbor, and there's no way to know how they will manhandle it. I treat MY furniture much more carefully.

  5. #50
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
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    Central Missouri, U.S.
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    Following this thread with interest, as I'm building my first table as well, though mine will be smaller. It'll be a butcher block cart thingie for the kitchen area.

    I'm planning to use the metal clips to attach the top, and I figure that as cheap as they are it won't hurt to use a bunch of them.

  6. #51
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    The top is together. Very uneven but it’ll do. No jointer. Ton of sanding and needs more.
    F4747D66-9E9C-43BC-A1E9-37CB4A982285.jpg

    I made a jig to cut the tenons on my table saw. Had to clean up a lot with a chisel. No turning back now. Still not sure exactly how I’m gonna mike The mortises. I practiced many times but still don’t feel very good about it.
    DFA16A1D-934E-449E-BA93-57F970062EB7.jpg

  7. #52
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
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    Generally you make the mortises and then make the tenons to fit.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  8. #53
    The picture above shared by peter is “I think how I attached a table leg to its apron piece. Only thing I add is a true mortise and tenon for the stretcher in the leg. Most often I draw bore this joint. Sometimes I use the hanger bolt, sometimes I don’t. I add diagonal corner blocks with screws for added structural integrity from the table racking.

    Being a cabinet maker “box cabinet” maker that is, pocket screws are used all over the place. I’m not a fan even in the slightest. They have become the industry standard though and 9 its 10 guys within the industry would think you are just dumb to M&T anything vrs pocket screw it. This coming from guys that break all rules with regard to wood movement and generally either don’t hink about the longevity of their and or don’t give a darn. What we do is expected to last 20 years at most and in most cases I would say it does that. For most it’s just a job and not a passion or perceived as enjoyable.

    If you are ok with those numbers than good on you pocket screw away itÂ’s done every day. M&T joints to soooooo many within the traded craft whatever have become seen as frivolous not needed overt complicated and time consuming. Ok I guess stacked next to a pocket screw the time savings is significant but it really is not that time consuming to use joinery if you are skilled and vrs in such. Becoming skilled and versed really doesnÂ’t take much time itself. But yes you have to set out and dedicate that time before it becomes second hand like anything else one does.

    Where am I going with this. It was a comment made up thread that M&T joinery is a bit complicated for a relative beginner. I tend to disagree. I think there is only a few simple things one must know in order to cut M&T successfully. A marking gauge or two, marking all joints at the same time, sawing close to the line then pairing to it, cutting right to the line is a disaster for a beginner, a sharpe chisel and a guide block clamped to your workpieces to guarantee 90% work then a desire for relative perfectionism. The work does not have to be perfect 99.9% of the time as the shoulders hide the mortise. If you get your shoulders right and your mortise close there are all kinds of work around to make sure things end up square and structurally strong.

    In the beininnig fear was my biggest limiter. I had built M&T joinery up in my head to be so involved complex and difficult. In the end I came to find out that after just a little research a little trial and error I was cutting clean joinery within my first few attempts.

    DonÂ’t let fear drive you from a task. Use that fear to drive you to achieve the task.

  9. #54
    Youtube is your friend.

  10. #55
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  11. #56
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    Nice work. When you mortise at the end of the piece you can cut a haunched mortise and tenon. The haunch is hidden by the table top and moving the tenon further from the end reduces the chance of the short grain breaking out either during the cutout or during use.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  12. #57
    Good job, Zac. Can you make those tenons a bit longer?

    Either way, I suggest pinning them.

  13. #58
    Well done!

  14. #59
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    07C19042-6764-46C2-B075-E971F19D294F.jpgD7B2B09C-3A2C-4CDD-8D93-E8960ED38B12.jpgDBE12818-5A55-4CEE-BAA3-2C6C17879715.jpg

    Its coming along. Glad I didn’t use screws. What about corner braces?? And the top is horribly wavy. I don’t have a jointer..

  15. #60
    That joint looks great - regardless of how you did it. I only have patience enough for a plunge router or hollow chisel mortiser. I will probably buy a Domino soon to really speed it up. You seem to be making good progress on a really nice table.

    Mathias Wandel (woodworking for engineers) tested mortise and tenon joints and found that having a little rougher mortise actually increased strength. So even if it doesn't look perfect, no reason to worry.

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