Page 2 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 63

Thread: Dining table advice

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Hilo, Hawaii
    Posts
    208
    Blog Entries
    1
    I should also add that because I am in Hawaii I don’t think movement due to seasons should be a problem. I could be wrong though. The temperature doesn’t really change all year, it could average slightly cooler during certain times of the year, but it’s a matter of about 5 degrees f.

  2. #17
    It's actually the humidity, not temperature that has the largest impact on seasonal movement of wood. You don't have much of a RH swing throughout the year, either.

    Average relative humidity (%) for Hilo, Hawaii
    Daily AM PM
    72 January 78 66
    71 February 77 65
    73 March 79 66
    74 April 80 68
    73 May 78 67
    72 June 78 65
    74 July 80 67
    74 August 80 68
    73 September 79 67
    74 October 79 69
    76 November 81 70
    74 December 80 68
    74 Annual 80 68
    Last edited by Dave Richards; 06-29-2018 at 5:29 AM.

  3. #18
    Thanks for the photos. I would definitely go with mortise and tenon joinery. You have nice materials to work with and it would be a shame to do anything other than traditional joinery. M&T joinery is not hard to learn and all you need is a chisel and square and then practice. If you want to go higher tech, then you add a drill to remove waste. Many instructional videos on the net. Greatest satisfaction after you are done. Ian Kirby (as far as I can recall) wrote on doing dovetails that you start with two 4' boards and you make dovetail joints, then cut them off, and repeat until you are out of wood. I think M&T joinery is very similar.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Kansas City
    Posts
    854
    M&T joinery is way more accessible than you might think. And if you have a router and a table saw, you can already do it.

    There are millions of videos on how to do it, but here is one from popular woodworking showing how to make a mortising jig

    https://youtu.be/DI3BWj7Ykzs

  5. #20
    Tables get a lot of stress. When people move a table, the common approach is to grab one end and either pull or push the table. This puts a lot of stress on the legs since the bottom of the leg wants to stay in place and the top is being pushed. This requires a strong joint between the leg and the apron. Mortise and tenon is the best (strongest) joint for attaching legs to aprons. Dowels are not as strong as mortise and tenon.

    Mike
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Hilo, Hawaii
    Posts
    208
    Blog Entries
    1
    This is the wood
    75529680-16DE-4E4D-9863-5AFABFFB9A0B.jpg

    The legs are Cut, glued, and sanded. Aprons cut to rough size..
    E4197072-DEBF-445A-BCAA-42D2191F8739.jpg9A55CB47-F074-4397-98E9-6E76296FA8D4.jpg

    Top is still being glued up

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Hilo, Hawaii
    Posts
    208
    Blog Entries
    1

  8. #23
    Zac,

    I think you have to makings of a very nice table there and a wonderful opportunity to expand your ww'ing skills.

    I think every one of us with a view toward becoming a craftsman comes to the realization its not just building something, its about how we will build it which is where you are now or you wouldn't be asking the questions.

    I look at each project as a way to develop new skills/techniques or hone the ones I already have learned. In fact, I will deliberately choose a certain project just to challenge myself to learn something new.

    Sometimes this entails a bit of study & sometimes buying the right tools.

    So I encourage you to get some scrap, practice some mortise and tenons (yes the drill and chisel method works just fine), and you will quickly find it is not so daunting. What will result is a well built table that will last a long time.

    Often with furniture building, the satisfaction is mostly personal in that you've done it right, even if nobody can see it.

    (BTW a pinned mortise and tenon is arguably the strongest leg/apron joint you could do).

  9. #24
    An additional note to my earlier comments. As Robert says above, each project should come with the challenge (and reward) of learning a new skill. When learning to do mortise and tenon joinery, a most important skill is learning how to sharpen a chisel properly. Tackling this type of joint is an exercise in frustration if you don't start out with a well-sharpened chisel. With a sharp chisel, you can concentrate on making the cuts accurately and not worry about the tools. Take your time and view some of the videos on youtube. You don't need to spend a lot of money. I use plate glass and sand paper of a range of grits to sharpen my chisels. You can buy a cheap guide or learn to do it without a guide (more difficult...something else to learn). Others buy dedicated grinder$ also. All methods work.

  10. #25
    Timely thread, my neighbor has asked for help making a dining table from knotty alder. He's handy, but his tools and skills are basically a circular saw, jig saw, and drill. He thought he was going to take S2S lumber and make a table with those tools. Heh. He asked for advice on how and said he "didn't want to bother me" to do it in my shop. Wait, I do this because it's fun, and I get to build something that someone else paid for?? Sweet!

  11. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by Floyd Mah View Post
    Thanks for the photos. I would definitely go with mortise and tenon joinery. You have nice materials to work with and it would be a shame to do anything other than traditional joinery. M&T joinery is not hard to learn and all you need is a chisel and square and then practice. If you want to go higher tech, then you add a drill to remove waste. Many instructional videos on the net. Greatest satisfaction after you are done. Ian Kirby (as far as I can recall) wrote on doing dovetails that you start with two 4' boards and you make dovetail joints, then cut them off, and repeat until you are out of wood. I think M&T joinery is very similar.
    I think doing M&T by hand is tough, especially when you're a beginner in overall woodworking. I tried that-- bought a set of mortising chisels and japenese pull saws. The results were pretty poor.

    Nowadays-- I do some stuff with dowels and a self-centering dowel jig.

    When I need M&T, I use this mortising jig:

    http://www.woodsmithtips.com/2016/02...fect-mortises/

    And I do tenons on the table saw with a dado stack. You can also do tenons on a table saw without a dado stack with a jig.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Hilo, Hawaii
    Posts
    208
    Blog Entries
    1
    Well, thanks to the encouragement I’ve received here I decided that I’d regret not at least attempting something other than screws. I only had time to practice some mortise and tenon a couple times with spare scrap. I am embarrassed by the photo, but post in hopes of advice. I used a pull saw and chisel only.
    A74B4A87-7E72-48D3-856A-B3678315C793.jpg

    My progress is nowhere near ready. The tenon is way too small, twice. But I am over the hump. It is within reach, just needs a whole lot of practice. Screw screws. Any help is welcome.

    The other half of the table glued up a whole lot nicer than the first two panels. Can’t wait to get the top together .
    20716935-12E7-437A-B060-8EF462B5C3C6.jpg

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,688
    Zac...some things to keep in mind: The inside of the mortise doesn't have to be pretty. The tenons don't have to be pristine. The two only need to fit together reasonably well with just enough space for the glue. The most important thing to get "right" is the shoulders on the tenons so that they fit cleanly against the mortised workpieces...that's the only thing that will show once you complete assembly. The same holds true if you have a mortise that the edge will be visible...you just need that "edge" to be perfect. What's down below it "in the hole" will never be seen. In fact, a slightly rough surface on the tenon and in the mortise is a good thing as it provides more opportunity to help the glue lock things together.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Hilo, Hawaii
    Posts
    208
    Blog Entries
    1
    Thanks for the advice, Jim. I practiced several more times today. It’s getting there.. my neighbor gave me a drill press today. It has helped speed the mortising up a whole lot. I’m considering making a jig to cut the tenons with my table saw. But I like the idea of doing the joinery by hand. The top is completely glued up now, so once the festivities pass tomorrow and a whole lot of sanding happens I am going to start getting antsy.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,688
    For tenons, I cross cut the shoulders on the table saw because I can be extremely accurate that way and get a clean edge. I cut the rest at the bandsaw as it's quick, accurate. If I really want a tight fit, I'll cut slightly proud and refine with hand planes to get there.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •