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Thread: Veneer - cold press glue + vacuum bag - let glue get tacky?

  1. #1
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    Veneer - cold press glue + vacuum bag - let glue get tacky?

    I'll be veneering a panel soon. I've veneered multiple panels int he past using cold press(better bond) veneer glue and a vacuum bag. I was searching around on here a moment ago and came to a thread where someone(can't remember who) said he paints the glue on like latex paint, then waits for it to become tacky enough to leave a finger print. I've never done that. I've always rolled the glue on(fairly thick), laid the veneer down, and into the bag it goes.

    Worst thing I've ever experienced is that the veneer starts to wrinkle badly once it hits the glue. I guess that's from the water content?

    Anyway, to let get tacky or no not? - that is the question.

    Actually, a second question: I still have a bunch of the better bond "very dark" glue. Do you think I'd have any problems using that under https://www.veneersupplies.com/produ...s-Per-Lot.html ???

    I do very little veneering and I'd hate to buy another bottle of glue because it *will* go bad. Shelf life says 12 months.
    Last edited by Mike Dowell; 06-26-2018 at 4:48 PM.
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    Sometimes the best solution to morale problems is just to fire all of the unhappy people.

  2. #2
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    I apply the glue to the core with an adhesive roller from Home Depot or Lowe’s . Gives a nice even thin coat then into the bag.
    Steve Jenkins, McKinney, TX. 469 742-9694
    Always use the word "impossible" with extreme caution

  3. #3
    I apply glue only to the substrate - that's to keep the moisture from the veneer as long as possible. Then place the veneer on the substrate and quickly into the bag and press.

    However, I've had bad luck with cold press glue - don't remember the brand. I use white glue or urea formaldehyde mostly now. If the veneer is really a problem (with water), I'll use epoxy (no water).

    Mike
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Henderson View Post
    I apply glue only to the substrate - that's to keep the moisture from the veneer as long as possible. Then place the veneer on the substrate and quickly into the bag and press.

    However, I've had bad luck with cold press glue - don't remember the brand. I use white glue or urea formaldehyde mostly now. If the veneer is really a problem (with water), I'll use epoxy (no water).

    Mike
    White glue as in Elmer's School Glue???

    What was your bad experience with cold press?
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    Sometimes the best solution to morale problems is just to fire all of the unhappy people.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Dowell View Post
    White glue as in Elmer's School Glue???

    What was your bad experience with cold press?
    Yes, that same white glue. You don't want to use it where the panel will get wet - but most furniture doesn't get really wet. You can use regular Titebond if you prefer but I think the white glue has a longer open time. For small things the open time isn't that important.

    My bad experience with cold press is that it didn't adhere well and I had bubbles in the final product. The first time it happened I just assumed that I didn't use enough glue. So the next time I made sure I used enough. I still had places where the veneer wasn't glued (bubbles). Maybe I had a bad batch of cold press glue but I never used it again. And let me say that it was not that there was anything wrong with the veneer or the preparation of the substrate. I've done a lot of veneer work and I made sure everything was good, especially before the second try.

    Mike
    Last edited by Mike Henderson; 06-26-2018 at 7:18 PM.
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  6. #6
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    I use a mini foam paint roller 5”, and have been using gorilla glue more and more. Even on my Marquetry panels, Gorilla glue has been great. I roll both (lightly) substrate and veneer.
    Cheers

  7. #7
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    Don't let it go tacky -- you may lose the bond and then be stuck with attempting to resurrect it after the fact. A big issue with the cold press glue is the working time -- you don't have much, and depending on the complexity of the glue-up, it's size, and the pull capacity of your pump/venturi, you can run out of time and wind up with all sort of veneer adhesion problems.

    Wrinkling most probably is due to too much glue, too much time, or too little pressure. You want a good layer that is enough, but not too much. The rollers suggested above are a good way to get an even coat, but be wary of going too heavy.

    Walnut over dark glue is fine, most likely. Be careful that the glue isn't too old.

    Adhesion problems are a big pain in the butt, so err on the side of care.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by John Sincerbeaux View Post
    I use a mini foam paint roller 5”, and have been using gorilla glue more and more. Even on my Marquetry panels, Gorilla glue has been great. I roll both (lightly) substrate and veneer.
    Cheers
    I've been using Gorilla glue for veneer repair - since it adheres to just about anything. I'll have to try it for original work. Thanks for your post.

    Mike
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

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