I can't speak to the PowRTek and its speed control, as far as what speed you should start it at. Seems to me it would be a bad idea to expect a user to always remember to turn the speed control down before starting. With my PC 7518, it starts out fast and ramps down to whatever speed I have set.
I know there is at least one other member here who adapted his 7518 to an external speed controller, but it required him to wire around the 7518's internal controller. I know there was a thread about it, maybe he'll see this one and comment. Myself, I don't feel that comfortable around electronics to attempt it.
With my 7518, the detentes on the speed control slider aren't quite as detente-ish as they once were. The control still works, just kind of iffy.
Went through this dilemma once upon a time and opted instead to make my own fence system with integral dust collection. Complete with sliding infeed and outfeed halves and T-tracks for accessories such as stops. I actually have a couple of precision fence systems lying around but wanted a simpler approach. Worth a try maybe?
Norman
Hey, Norman. That's a good looking table. I may make a mobile base/cabinets for my table some day. I see lots of inspiring designs that would really be fun to work on and would provide some handy storage. Right now, I don't have time for a lot of the "fun" projects - mostly just the must-do list. That's why I decided to just buy something that was pretty much assemble, plug and play. It will be fun to go back and revisit some of the ideas that folks have shared and start to figure out the design for mine... if not a router cabinet, certainly an assembly table with storage. Maybe a hybrid of the two.
Hi Dean, just wondering how your Jessem system turned out for you. I'm on the exact journey you described, including the same anxiety over cast iron table compatibility (two years later, nothing's changed). My main question is regarding the aluminum ALTS Stand (and Mobility Kit if you bought that). Did you find the ALTS Stand to be a worthy upgrade over the basic stands everyone else offers (including Jessem)? It looks like it may be better for cabinet building (Jessem also claims that) but there is very little info out there on this stand. Many Thanks for any input!
If you are going to spend over $200 on a router table+router+fence I would seriously consider buying a used 1.5hp, or more,shaper. For the price you get a cast iron table with mitre grove, decent fence, motor, proper switch, height adjuster etc. All of which are extra cost on a router table. I do not think any routers are reversable? Use the money saved to buy a router spindle.
Bill D.
I have gone the table saw route on the router table. I have the SS PCS with the 52” rails. I also had my 2nd Norm Version of stand alone which has served me well. I got the hots for the SS and am into it for the RT/Fence package for $500. I cut down the rails and built my DC box and my own lift, which does require that I Bend over to make the adjustment. I save the $150 for the RT rails, the $150 for the DC box and lifts are just “the sky is the limit.” A friend has volunteered to take the Norm off my hands. I will miss The drawers, but I am very pleased with the set-up now. The PCS is very stable without the legs SS provided with the top.
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