Question Regarding Cutting Threads in Domestic Woods with a Jig

[Marvin Hasenak]

Very interesting idea, John. Do you have any photos of your setup?

If you want to go that route check this link out. http://scottingham.com/thread.html
It has another never ending money pit that you can chase the dreams in.

[JohnC Lucas]

I made it out of angle iron. I got anal and hand filed the exact size between the ways. I don't think it needed that.

[Dwight Rutherford]

8E1D434E-C7BA-4792-9B6D-71967D6B2557.jpgThe one I use is similar;

[Glen Blanchard]

Dwight, John - Very resourceful. Kudos to you both. Great idea.

John - I presume you had the Baxter prior to building your threading station, correct?

[Dan Henry]

If you have some chippy wood soak the area for threads with thin CA glue before cutting the threads and after the theards are cut soak the threads one more time, Do not change the set up and soak with clue, let the glue dry and recut the threads. I have cut threasd in some very soft wood using this the idea.
Dan

[Reed Gray]

If my threads are chipping, I cut them about half way down, then put some walnut oil on the threads for the next few passes. Pretty much eliminates chipping. Nice set up John. I would think the high speeds of the router would be too much.

robo hippy

[Doug Rasmussen]

Something I don't ever recall seeing in recommendations for wood threading is to use a climb cut. A climb cut can be visualized as the direction of cut that you're warned not to use when routing the edge of a board with a hand held router. Climb cuts have a strong tendency to try and self feed the tool such that you can lose control due to the strong self feeding force.

With the relatively small amount being removed with rotating threading tools the force trying to self feed will be minimal enough you should be able to easily control it with a threading jig (some threading jigs have a method to adjust tightness of the screw, tighter is better for control). I don't have time right now to show a diagram of which side the cutter should be on to accomplish climb cutting. If you hold a cutter near a threaded container lid (something from the refrigerator, for instance) should give an idea of how to accomplish the climb cut.

I do virtually all my woodworking on CNC machines where climb cutting is a no-brainer. It gives far less chipping and tear out even when and especially when cutting against the grain.

[Glen Blanchard]

Something I don't ever recall seeing in recommendations for wood threading is to use a climb cut.

Doing a climb cut would require a relief channel be cut at the 'ending point' of the threaded surface (a technique that I have seen advocated numerous times anyway) prior to engaging the cutter. As long as some relief has been provided in which to place the teeth of the cutter, I don't see why a climb cut could not be made as long as incremental and small passes are made so as not to be dangerous.

I wonder if there would be a difference in the quality of cut.

[Doug Rasmussen]

Doing a climb cut would require a relief channel be cut at the 'ending point' of the threaded surface (a technique that I have seen advocated numerous times anyway) prior to engaging the cutter. As long as some relief has been provided in which to place the teeth of the cutter, I don't see why a climb cut could not be made as long as incremental and small passes are made so as not to be dangerous.

I wonder if there would be a difference in the quality of cut.

Yes, definitely better quality of cut and less chance of chipping the thread crests. There also may be longer cutter life too. At least a metal cutting climb cut gives longer tool life since the cutter doesn't rub before biting into the work.