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  1. #1

    SawStop Overarm Dust Collector?

    I recently purchased a SawStop 5hp ICS with the industrial mobile base. I'm thinking of getting the SawStop TSA-ODC Overarm Dust Collection Assembly but not sure how effective it will be with my Powermatic 1 3/4hp dust collector. Any opinions and advice?

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Mathews View Post
    I recently purchased a SawStop 5hp ICS with the industrial mobile base. I'm thinking of getting the SawStop TSA-ODC Overarm Dust Collection Assembly but not sure how effective it will be with my Powermatic 1 3/4hp dust collector. Any opinions and advice?
    Go for it as you will see the addition of the above the table dust collection a great improvement in dust collection, except in edge cuts. 1 3/4HP is strong enough. Alternatively, some connect the overarm t a shop vac.

    However, for max. effectiveness, do not use the stock connector with a 90 elbow chute for the overarm. You can find many sawstop users changing it to an angled (45*?) chute.

    There is a secondary benefit of using the overarm dust collection: it forces you to use the dust collection blade guard in general, hence enhancing your safety. i once visited a high school shop where it had three SawStops and saw a sign that said that only teachers could remove the blade guard.

    Simon
    Last edited by Simon MacGowen; 06-22-2018 at 4:08 PM.

  3. #3
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    Steve, this has come up in a couple of fairly recent threads. I'm using it with a 2 hp dust collector, and would assess the above-table collection as "better than nothing", but nothing to shout about. I haven't tried connecting a shop vac to the overhead arm, so that might work better, dunno.

    I think you'd need a dust collector in the 5 hp range to see really good results both above and below the table, even using a y-adaptor (which I do) as opposed to the t-adaptor that comes with it.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Decker View Post
    Steve, this has come up in a couple of fairly recent threads. I'm using it with a 2 hp dust collector, and would assess the above-table collection as "better than nothing", but nothing to shout about. I haven't tried connecting a shop vac to the overhead arm, so that might work better, dunno.

    I think you'd need a dust collector in the 5 hp range to see really good results both above and below the table, even using a y-adaptor (which I do) as opposed to the t-adaptor that comes with it.
    Something is wrong here, Nick. I have used ICS and PCS with 1.75HP and 3HP DC (Powermatic) and Y-adaptors with excellent results. Why do you need a 5HP DC for a table saw?

    Did you seal the front in your set-up? The huge opening in the saw should be sealed (get the magnet sheets from Staples or other office supplies stores).

    The shop vac works great, but it is not my set-up.

    Simon

  5. #5
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    Definitely go for it. Any suction is better than none IMO.
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

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    Simon, what "front" are you talking about sealing? Can you show us some pics of your setup?

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Decker View Post
    Simon, what "front" are you talking about sealing? Can you show us some pics of your setup?
    http://www.rockler.com/sawstop-indus...-230v-36-fence

    The opening on the front allows the arbor assembly to tilt so you can make bevel cuts. Cut a magnet sheet or two to cover all the openings.

    Simon

  8. #8
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    OK, might give that a try. I really think, though, that we're looking at two different dust collection situations here. The cabinet, which needs a dust collector, and the blade guard, which needs a shop vac.

  9. #9
    Before you head out and buy the sheets, try this:

    Remove the hose from the overarm dust collection blade guard, turn on the dc and feel the suction with your hand.

    Then tape the opening with a cardboard and hold it with masking tape (and cover any small opening not covered by the card board with masking tape too). Turn on the dc and feel the suction with your hand again to see if there is any difference.

    The magnet sheets provide convenience when you need to set the saw for angled cuts. The sheets we use are Avery3270, but Staples sheets could be slightly cheaper.

    Simon

  10. #10
    Sounds like the SawStop overarm dust collector will work for me, especially considering that the saw will be somewhat mobile. What size shop vac works well with it assuming I use my 1 3/4hp Powermatic dust collector strictly for the lower 4" port?

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Mathews View Post
    Sounds like the SawStop overarm dust collector will work for me, especially considering that the saw will be somewhat mobile. What size shop vac works well with it assuming I use my 1 3/4hp Powermatic dust collector strictly for the lower 4" port?
    The one I saw (used on an ICS) was a 3.5HP 5 gallon shop vac (not 100% sure!), small enough that it was held to the saw with a bungee cord.

    An example of the use of the blade guard: https://youtu.be/lUcoU9ka2eo?t=1m17s

    Simon
    Last edited by Simon MacGowen; 06-22-2018 at 8:03 PM.

  12. #12
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    Simon, I'll try what you suggested tomorrow. I also want to check with SawStop to get their thoughts. In looking at the various holes that I might plug up, it occurs to me that they might be providing some needed cooling for the motor.

    Steve, I'm guessing a very small shop vac would be plenty, if all of its suction was being used for just the blade guard.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon MacGowen View Post
    http://www.rockler.com/sawstop-indus...-230v-36-fence

    The opening on the front allows the arbor assembly to tilt so you can make bevel cuts. Cut a magnet sheet or two to cover all the openings.

    Simon
    I do the same but, let's qualify "all openings". You need to have return air in order to get air flow. There seems to be plenty of other places for air to get in with the 'tilt-slot' generally covered with a piece of sheet magnet. Sometimes I forget to put it back after making a bevel cut and I do notice..

    As to the performance of the overarm in general. The 3HP PCS method of tapping the overarm into the lower cabinet duct supplies sub-optimal suction. I credit the good design of the hood that it works as well as it does. I will now contradict myself and say that although the overarm collection is much improved if a better path to the DC is used, I find the bother of running something like a shop vac in addition to simply opening the tablesaw gate more than I am willing to do regularly. If I have a lot of ripping to do I will swing the overarm hose to a vac or a more direct port on the DC. I got it free when I bought the saw and am glad to have it; I just wanted to share my experience having used it for a few years.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


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  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by glenn bradley View Post
    I find the bother of running something like a shop vac in addition to simply opening the tablesaw gate more than I am willing to do regularly.
    I'd agree so, if yours is not a standalone system like the one I saw in which the woodworker used a 1Hp or 1.75 HP dc for the 4" port and a small vac (probably 5 gallon) for the overarm. He uses an auto switch and so when he turns on the saw, both the dc and the shop vac come on as well. He also uses the overarm to clean his table saw after a job, so that is an extended arm of his shop vac!

    By the way, if a central dc system with ports/gates is used, even a 5Hp dc can be struggling, depending on the run of ducts etc. I have seen youtube videos in which woodworkers use a shop vac or Festool CT as the source of suction for a central dust collection system. That is just better than nothing if you ask me, and I bet they are still breathing lots of dust they can't see in their shops.

    Simon

  15. #15
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    I have my guard connected to the dust collector with a flex from an overhead duct and it works extremely well. I've not tried the factory duct, but can't help but think that it would be too restrictive to do as good a job.

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