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Thread: Work Bench Top Material

  1. #16
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    Depends on whether you plan to have dog holes in your top or not.

    For one with no holes, I have found that two layers of particle board are very sturdy, and with a sacrificial top of Masonite I have beat on mine for 20 years with no damage to the particle board. My masonite has a white waterproof layer of Melamine like material on it, and glue wipes right off.

    This material was made to be a shower wall, and has worked out well, with one caveat. Don't let the glue dry completely and then try to pop it off with a putty knife. The finish will pop off. After all these years my top looks like it has acne, and needs replacement.

    When I replace the top, I plan to insert a Kreg plate to hold bench clamps.


    PS: I recently bought a roll around maple bench with dog holes, and for my general use, I find I do not use the dogs much.
    Rick Potter

    DIY journeyman,
    FWW wannabe.
    AKA Village Idiot.

  2. #17
    Thanks everyone for the ideas. The bench will be 32x72 and I've decided to make the top out of two layers of domestic 3/4" birch ply with 2-3 coats of poly. I'm also going to make the top removable, so if it doesn't work out, I can replace it in the future. I hadn't thought about wrapping it, but I really like the idea.

    Again, I appreciate the input.

    Any thoughts on a good working height?

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Randall View Post

    Any thoughts on a good working height?
    The absolute best bench decision I ever made was to have it height-adjustable. Every project is different and having that surface at the "best" height for the operation results in less back strain as as well as less eye strain. There are some things I do sitting on a tall stool or a short chair, so I fully leverage the height adjustability. Yes, that comes at a cost, but for me, it's been something that's paid for itself many times over. (I use the same Noden Adjust-a-Bench system that Mike mentioned earlier in the thread)

    If your bench height needs to be fixed, then it needs to be compatible with other tool surfaces...at or below them...to insure no conflicts when moving material around.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  4. #19
    I think I answered my own question as soon as I posted it. I also want to use it as an outfeed table. Right now I have a Dewalt job saw that's at about 35".

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marshall Harrison View Post
    I'm no fan of mdf for the top of a "working" workbench. too easy to dent or spill stuff on that can cause it to crumble. I like it okay for tool tops like a drill press etc.

    If you want to use holdfasts then your described top then that would require a 1 3/4" top so they may not work for you. I wold also worry about an mdf top chipping or crumbling around dog holes.
    Just for an alternate experience. There are different types of MDF. I have never had a dog hole fail in use. Here's a previous bench showing an area where a lot of work is done near the vise at an age of about 8 years.

    vise and dog holes (5).jpg

    This one was 4 layers of 3/4" MDF. The top and bottom were treated with BLO, let cure a week or so and then paste waxed. It would get re-waxed every year or so; whenever I noticed glue wasn't popping right off anymore.

    I liked the MDF work surface so much I used it on my next, and current, bench. This one is 2 layers of 3/4" ply for sag resistance and 2 layers of 3/4" MDF for a dead flat, inert top.

    TNNW (73).jpg

    Same treatment for the top, BLO and wax. I built this one in the summer of 2015 and I don't baby it. I did manage to drop a small steel door on it from the rafter area. I just filled this ding with epoxy the next time I was using some. In general you can really work a surface prepared this way hard without issue. I do love it that spills stay on the surface for clean up and glue drips pop right off.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  6. #21
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    image.jpg

    Working on mine now. The Noden AAB base is adjustable in 1- 1 1/2 inch increments. I want to be able to adjust it to exact heights. I extended the side rails, using the full length of the 8’ trim boards. The threaded rods, on the bench top, are scraps from the threaded rods in the stretchers. I plan to cut them in half and glue one end in the 1 1/4” wood rod, also on the bench top. I plan to cut 3/8” slots in the rail sides, so I can adjust the rotating rod to fit heights exactly. I figure chamfering the end edges will allow boards etc. to slide on to the bench top. I will run star nobs on the ends of the 3/8” rod so I can clamp the rotating rod in place. I will probably plane the raised edges down to about 1/4” so I can use masonite, MDF, or even horse stall matts as the top.
    Last edited by Mike Holbrook; 06-23-2018 at 1:36 PM.

  7. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Randall View Post
    Thanks everyone for the ideas. The bench will be 32x72 and I've decided to make the top out of two layers of domestic 3/4" birch ply with 2-3 coats of poly. I'm also going to make the top removable, so if it doesn't work out, I can replace it in the future. I hadn't thought about wrapping it, but I really like the idea.
    One thing about domestic birch plywood (the 4x8 sheet kind) is that it tends to have a fir (or similar) inner core that isn't very hard and the birch veneer is quite thin. It makes great jigs because of the stability of the core, but it won't be as dense as baltic birch plywood which is birch throughout.

  8. #23
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    Apr 2018
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    Cambridge Vermont
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    The last work bench I made I used some cheap oak flooring from one of the box stores. I put it over a sheet of 3/4" advantec subfloor. I ran screws from underneath figuring that I could replace it if I didn't like it. I have to fill in the small bevels between each board.

  9. #24
    The top of my combination workbench, assembly & outfeed table consists of two layers of 3/4" plywood (screwed together, no glue) with a sheet of hardboard for a work surface. The hardboard is held in place with some left over oak baseboard that I cut down to fit, though an alternative could be to use double-sided tape to keep the surface in place. Once worn, the hardboard can be turned over or replaced for less than ten bucks. The surface is quite flat and level, as well as very solid. In addition the overall mass keeps the unit in place with no movement.

    The height is just below my table saw (and the height of an anticipated future upgraded table saw) to serve as an outfeed area.

    The overall surface is 4' x 8' with a 30" x 30" area that is dropped down to a convenient height for the spindle / belt sander, portable router table and scroll saw. The top also overhangs the base of the unit to allow for clamping on the sides and ends.

    With the arrival of summer and many outdoor tasks keeping me busy (I have a 103 acre tree farm, a sizable garden and other active projects), I haven't had the opportunity to complete the unit but it will eventually include pull-out drawers for tools and other woodworking items as well as shelving to store handheld tools and other items.

    I am quite satisfied with how the unit is turning out and it has been a great addition to the shop.


    Bench 1a.jpg Bench 2a.jpg
    Last edited by Art Tripp; 06-23-2018 at 11:11 PM.

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Seemann View Post
    One thing about domestic birch plywood (the 4x8 sheet kind) is that it tends to have a fir (or similar) inner core that isn't very hard and the birch veneer is quite thin. It makes great jigs because of the stability of the core, but it won't be as dense as baltic birch plywood which is birch throughout.
    This is soooooo true. You won't be happy when that thin top veneer starts to chip off. I use 3/4" UL ply for things like this. My lumberyard stocks beautiful 7 ply UL plywood and the two outside veneers are easily a full 1/16" thick, it's way cheaper than 3/4" birch veneer ply and much tougher. On your bench size, two layers would be crazy strong and if you want holes for bench dogs, screw and glue a third layer underneath 3-4" wide aligned with the bench dog row(s).

  11. #26
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    It seems to me that there are two different “arguments” being made here that may not be mutually exclusive.

    Certainly “ply-wood” with thicker harder plies is tougher. However, if the ultimate design incorporates “multiple sacrificail” tops that are not plywood then the type of plywood may not be as important. The plywood I used was bought on sale at a box store, softer plies.

    8D4A1696-6B41-4DB8-B776-4A5520782679.jpg

    My specific design has a 22” wide top. 7” of that width is covered by 2x4 lumber, leaving a total of 15”, of doubled up plywood, unsupported. The 1x4” edging, and sacrificial tops lend more support. I plan to use multiple coats of WATCO on the softer plywood, which protects it and adds water resistance.

    I hope the through dominoes used to hold the top piece of plywood on the bottom piece are visible in the picture. Those dominoes are glued into the 2x4 support and bottom piece of plywood, not the top piece of plywood. This design allows for the removal of the top piece of plywood should it become damaged, which is highly unlikely with the use of multiple sacrificial tops.

    I think the important point here is understanding and designing for the limitations of specific materials is the most important factor.
    Last edited by Mike Holbrook; 06-24-2018 at 10:02 AM.

  12. #27
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    My work bench top is made of two layers of MDF. It is heavy, and very stable. I also like that I have a sacrificial top that can be easily replaced if needed.

    MDF is a god awful material to work with. I hate it, and detest working with it. Realize though, that MDF comes in different weights for the same sized sheet. Some can be the really cheesy stuff that crumbles apart, as Marshall pointed out, and some is very heavy duty, and a better alternative than a cheap plywood.
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  13. #28
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    https://youtu.be/NvlGamh66bE

    Medite Tricoya is the product I have been searching for. According to the YouTube video this product can be used under ground. The video shows the guy making a planter box with the material, after a year with the box left outside, there were no problems....

    I did find a 3/8-1/2” thick 4x8’ sheet of HD plastic material at Lowe’s recently. I believe it was about $70. I bought one sheet to use on bench/table tops.
    Last edited by Mike Holbrook; 06-24-2018 at 3:10 PM.

  14. #29
    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Zellers View Post
    I use 3/4" UL ply for things like this.
    For clarification, what is UL?

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Randall View Post
    For clarification, what is UL?
    Underlayment grade. I believe UL plywood is specified to have no voids in the first 3 layers. I rarely see any voids at all. The top veneer is often a single perfectly clear slice with very few footballs, if any. It certainly doesn't compare to Baltic Birch but it's nice stuff.

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