IF you ever drop in on a Youtube show called Traditional Chinese Woodworking....the "host" puts on a little show & tell, about chopping a mortise, and a through one at that......and will put most of you to shame doing it. Worth the watch...IF you dare...
Bevel edge chisels will chop mortises. Any hammer will do, but a mallet is better.
I haven’t done through mortises, but I have done blind mortises using Paul Sellers’s method and bench chisels. It worked great and was a lot of fun. The tip on practicing first is key to get your confidence up. Just work carefully and work from both sides. You’d be surprised how well the chisel tracks square. I’m looking forward to my next project when I can do it again!
If you want some real fun, spring for an inexpensive mortise chisel like a Narex in the size you use most. If you do not like it, it would likely be easy to sell at little loss.I have done blind mortises using Paul Sellers’s method and bench chisels. It worked great and was a lot of fun.
If as my suspicions lead me to believe, you like it, then you may want to acquire the sizes you use regularly.
Driving a chisel is fun. Whacking a mortise chisel is way more fun.
It is like the difference of driving a sedan or a truck.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
I actually own a Sorby mortise chisel in 1/4" in addition to my bench chisels. It is not a pig sticker, but halfway there from a bench chisel. I have used it for mortises as well with good results, too. I guess maybe I need to go full bore and try something more "Neanderthaly."
Kevin,
Almost any chisel can work to chop mortises. For some mortises, different woods, different width and depth, different types of chisels will be easier to use. I expect your Sorby is a sash mortise chisel that was made to do shallow, fairly narrow mortises. A true pig sticker comes into its own chopping deeper mortises, once you use one it is hard to go back.
ken
Warren, which of the two (pigsticker or sash mortise) do you prefer for relatively shallow mortises on a Chippendale chair? (Even a through mortise joining the rails to the stiles could be considered “shallow,” given the morticing is approached from both sides of the stile.). I have always used a pigsticker, but your post has me questioning that. Perhaps I’ll find a sash chisel and give it a try on my next chair.
Mark Maleski
Of course the chisel you are used to will give good results.
In the 18th century mortise chisels were sort of intermediate between the sash mortise chisel and the joiner's mortise chisel. They were probably a bit lighter at the beginning of the century. The two forms, sash and joiner's, originated in the 19th century at the same time that machines were starting to be used for making mortises. (Some were foot power.) I don't know which of these tools were used by which trades in the 19th century. Charles Hayward said that sash mortise chisels were used for cabinetmaking, but I can't think of other references.
I prefer sash mortise chisels for furniture. I would recommend them, but I would not go so far as to suggest that someone replace their joiner's mortise chisels if things are working out for them.
I have a set of those Sorby sash mortise chisels and they work well for me. I've seen so many threads on pig-stickers that I'd love to try one but as I said, the Sorby chisels work just fine and I never had a problem with the sides not being square to the flat.
"The reward of a thing well done is having done it." - Ralph Waldo Emerson