Need help with wiring

[Mike Baker 2]

Hi,
I'm making a bending iron out of aluminum pipe, a charcoal starter, and a 600 watt, single pole rotary dimmer. What I am doing is wiring the charcoal starter in line with the dimmer switch, and with a power cable that then goes to a power outlet when needed.
The wires coming from the dimmer are green (ground), and two black.
The wires on the charcoal starter, and the 3 prong plug I'm connecting to, are green, white and black.
I have wired them every way I can. I've joined both white wires and connected them to a black, then joined the other black and green wires to their respective colors. I've switched the white wires to the other black, I've wired a white to a black, and the other white to the other black. The only thing I haven't done is connect the green ground wires to one of the other colors, and I don't think that's a good idea.
I get power either way I wire, and the charcoal starter and the pipe heat up. But the dimmer is set up so you can psh it to turn on and off. That function does not work no matter how I wire it, and the dimmer switch does not control the temp; it is full on no matter what I do.
Can anyone help me?

[Pete Taran]

Mike,

I'm not an electrician, but I've done some pretty advanced wiring projects. The thing most people don't realize, is that all switches are wired inline with the black power side only. The only thing different about your switch is that it varies the power in addition to turning it off. So, you would hook one lead of the plug (the side that carries the current which in the plug is the brass side) to one lead of the switch, and then hook a wire to your charcoal starter from the other side of the switch. So, you would have one side of the plug going all the way to your "appliance" with the switch in between. Then, from the other side of the appliance, (the white lead, or the neutral)it would go all the way back to the other side of the plug. You should also hook up the ground if it's a three pronged plug. Once that is done, the switch, when turned on, should allow power to flow through the switch, through the appliance and then back to the box. Remember, all modern wiring takes power and returns it to the ground. That is what causes the electrical potential that makes electrons flow.

Having said all that, you should seek qualified electrician assistance, make sure everything is done to code and grounded properly.

Regards,

Pete

PS, those dimmer switches are designed to vary the power for incandescent lights which is not a lot of current. It could be that you burned out the rheostat and the only thing that works now is the switch side. Those rheostats are not designed to carry significant amount of current. I think the most is 10 amps, but it will say on the switch what the max current load is

[Mike Baker 2]

Thanks, Peter.

[Pete Taran]

Let us know if it works after trying what is suggested above.

[Pat Barry]

Black from power cord to black on dimmer then other black from dimmer to black on the charcoal starter. Other side, white on power cord to white on charcoal starter. This is a standard series connection. Green from power cord is unused. Note: green is the "ground" wire. It is tied to white (neutral) inside your fuse box. Green can be tied to metal enclosure if you have one.

[Jim Koepke]

As one who has worked on electrical things almost all of my life my suggestion is to not mess with this. As Pete said find someone who knows what they are doing.

Do you know the wattage of your charcoal starter? If it is greater than 600W your dimmer has likely been toasted.

Dimmer switches are made to work with lights, not heating elements.

Even as someone who knows what they are doing, the occasional live voltage has found me. Just my luck that electricity hasn't killed me. Part of it is practicing safe procedures when working around 'hot' circuits. The same procedures should be followed around non-energized circuits.

jtk

[Mike Baker 2]

Thanks, gentlemen. I posted this across several forums and getting the same instructions.
Jim, 500w starter, 600w dimmer.

[Mike Baker 2]

I'll keep you posted, guys.
Worse comes to worse, the pipe is thick walled aluminum. I'll plug it straight in, let it heat up, and unplug, bend some, etc., etc. Or I'll tear everything apart and shove a propane torch in the back end.

[John C Cox]

What you need here is a cheap router speed controller (typically available at Harbor Freight).

[Mike Baker 2]

OK, gentlemen, thanks.
I have it wired green from starter and power cord to green on dimmer, black from one side of dimmer to black at power cord, black from other side of dimmer to black of starter, white from power cord to white from starter.
It is getting hot, but very slowly, with the dimmer wide open. I can still wrap my hand around it after 10 minutes or so, and the element hasn't begun to glow. I had to stop because of rain(outdoors). Should it take this long to heat up?

[Mike Baker 2]

What you need here is a cheap router speed controller (typically available at Harbor Freight).

I have thought of that, and HF is half hour away. But the dimmer is $8, the speed controller $20. Thought I'd try this first.

[Mike Henderson]

OK, gentlemen, thanks.
I have it wired green from starter and power cord to green on dimmer, black from one side of dimmer to black at power cord, black from other side of dimmer to black of starter, white from power cord to white from starter.
It is getting hot, but very slowly, with the dimmer wide open. I can still wrap my hand around it after 10 minutes or so, and the element hasn't begun to glow. I had to stop because of rain(outdoors). Should it take this long to heat up?

Run a couple of tests. Plug your heater directly into an outlet and see how quickly it heats up. If it heats up quickly, hook an incandescent light bulb to your dimmer and see if it lights up properly and can be dimmed (you want a bulb that will draw a decent amount of power, not an LED). If both work, I'd say get the router control and try that.

Mike

[Mike Baker 2]

Thanks, Mike.
If I wire the charcoal starter directly to the power cord, it glows cherry red.
The problem is when I try to wire it to the dimmer.
Short of cash(real short), which is why I tried the $8 dimmer as opposed to the $20 speed control. I will keep plucking along. If I get it, fine, if not, next week I'll take a trip to HF and pick up a speed control.
It is just a bit frustrating. This should be a simple wiring job. I cannot understand why I cannot grasp it.
I have my body mold, my practice sides. All I need is the hot pipe and I can start learning to bend sides. Meh.

[John C Cox]

It may be worth posting a question over on the Power tools forum asking for advice on a cheap reliable router controller. A quick check on Amazon shows they run about $20 like you said....

Your charcoal lighter pulls 5 amps (600w/120v = 5a). What is your dimmer rated for?

[David L Morse]

You may have fried the triac in the dimmer with your random wiring experiments and there's just enough current flow left through the control circuit to warm the heater. Do as Mike suggested and test the dimmer with an incandescent lamp. If the dimmer's bad it's your choice whether to risk another $8 on a new dimmer or go for the $20 option. Personally I would go with the new dimmer.