Because I've never did this before ......

[Aaron Rosenthal]

The past week has been spent making a few jigs. Along the way, I began to wonder why things don't work for me like they do in the videos.
I made a jig to plane thin pieces, which works okay so that's fine.
Then I made a saw jig with a dead straight piece of Pedra as my stop, but not with a slot, but just a perfect edge. Must be my lack of practice, but I still cut leaning "right". Perhaps I should have done it as a mitre box, but, next time.
Then, the shooting board. 2 pieces of MDO, and the first fence I tried to make it adjustable however it just moved out of square, so I made a second fence: this time I recessed the fence a out a fat 32nd from the edge and it seems to work better - my reasoning is that I'm cutting the work piece not the fence, right? All the other measurements are good. The "but....."
I have 2 planes of the #5 ilk. One is a Record post 1960, but with a Veritas iron and cap, the other is an indeterminate green with a Stanley iron and cap, well tuned both of them.
I first tried to shoot a smaller piece of 5/4 Pedra and with either of the planes it was a lot of hard work and huge chattering. Tried my BU Veritas smoother, and it went a little better, but still, not what I expected. InSin the end, the end grain looke like 40 miles of bad road and my hand said WT heck.
Then some end grain Oak. Not much better as far as feel, either plane, and only a little smoother.
Feel like delegating cut off work to the power miter saws.

[John Kananis]

Ok, first, forget the help-me-cut-a-straight-line jigs and just practice with a light touch, it will eventually just work for you (just takes a little bit).

For the shooting board, tiny shears of end-grain at a time - finely set (sharp) plane and more passes. Also, you probably did better with the LV tool because its most-likely square to its side, check the other plane with a square. Again, time and technique.

Seriously, don't give up, its quit rewarding when it 'works'.

EDIT: Even with everything square, you'll have a little trouble shooting square in the beginning (just remember to move the plane forward without sideways pressure) but the learning curve on this one isn't that bad.

[Kees Heiden]

For planing endgrain: sharp, sharp, sharp!

[Jim Koepke]

For planing endgrain: sharp, sharp, sharp!

And a light cut.

Here is my rehab of a shooting board:

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....hoot&styleid=3

There is a bit of difference to be seen between the image in the first post compared to my later post (#7 if your preferences are set to liner view) after the blade was sharpened.

Taking a lighter cut helps to minimize any tear out.

jtk