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Thread: Quality Tung Oil - Satin, finished by hand

  1. #1
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    Quality Tung Oil - Satin, finished by hand

    Hi all,

    I'm looking for a high quality tung oil that I can hand rub into a walnut dining table. I prefer satin finish.

    Any thoughts / recommendations?

    Thanks and cheers,

  2. #2
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    When it comes to Tung Oil...you want a product that says "100% Tung Oil" on the label. You can then apply multiple very light coats, removing any excess and once it builds a little and cures, it will have a nice satin sheen.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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    Thanks Jim.

    Do you have a preference for mixing ratios with tung oil and a solvent? Preference on solvent?

  4. #4
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    Honestly, I personally don't use Tung Oil...I'm a BLO guy. I'm not mistaken, thinning the first coat a little for more penetration is something some folks do, but I'd probably just use full strength like I do with BLO.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #5
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    Andrew, there are a lot of products out there that say they are tung oil finish, or imply they are partly tung oil, but are really wiping varnishes. See the article by Bob Flexner in the upcoming August Popular Woodworking magazine. Real tung oil does not benefit from thinning or hand rubbing, IMO.

  6. #6
    Also... Be sure to apply the 1st coats THIN THIN THIN...

    Wipe it on super thin and then make sure you wipe it off till your wiping rag comes off dry. This makes sure you don't end up with a sticky mess...

    Also - if it seems a bit sticky after a day - give it lots of sunlight. Let it be till it's all fully cured before applying a second coat.

  7. #7
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    Thanks everyone!

  8. #8
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    Pure Tung Oil is not a very good finish, in my opinion. It is only marginally more moisture resistant than BLO, which means not very. It dries quite slowly, requiring several days to cure sufficiently for a next coat. It does apply in the usual oil finish method--apply, and let penetrate for a short period (say a half hour) and then vigorously and thoroughly wipe off excess. It will take about 5 coats to achieve an even sheen. If you rush it inadvertently, or leave too thick a film, it can show grayish white "frosted" appearance that can only be removed by stripping off with chemical stripper and starting over.

    Personally, I would use an oil varnish mixture, such as 1/3 each of Boiled Linseed Oil, oil based varnish, and mineral spirits. It will apply in the same way, but will wipe off a bit more easily, will generally be ready for the next coat over night in good drying conditions. It should only require a few coats to achieve an even sheen. The difference in appearance between this and pure Tung Oil will be minimal. It will be more water resistent and durable and as easily refreshed periodically over time.

  9. #9
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    My experience goes along with Steve's observations.

  10. #10
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    Check out the thread "Pure Tung Oil or Polymerized Tung Oil?" started on 12/22/2005. Read the entry by David Ginther dated 4/23/2015. I am just a hobbiest without a great deal of experience with most of the finishes discussed here. My experience with pure tung oil, however, is the same as David's. I refinished a rifle stock in 1982 with 27 very thin coats of pure tung oil, rubbed on by hand. After curing, it was rubbed out with rottenstone. That finished is dented from contact with stuff in the woods, but it has never cracked or split. As David mentioned, it really shows the character of the wood. In good light, with magnification, the cells of the wood are spectacular, and it is just a factory stock.

  11. #11
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    Thanks again!

    I've got some decisions to make, but I'm definitely better informed.

    Cheers,

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