Need some ideas-- Need to make a hole in an electric box that is in the wall

[Tom M King]

Here's a bit like I use. I drill the hole in the corner next to the stud, being as careful as possible not to let it break through any more than needed, to lessen the chance of hitting a wire. There are thin fiberglass "pulling rods" sold in different lengths, with a small eye on one end. By drilling the hole next to the stud, the pulling rod will run along the stud, bypassing insulation bats if they're in there. I use the rod to pull a line back into the box, and then the line to pull the wire, with the attachment streamlined as much as possible onto the wire with 33+, so it will ride over any bump.

Once the wire is in the box, I seal around it, in the new hole, with fire caulking.

I like to redo all the wiring in the box rather than just add the new one somewhere. If the device looks like its a couple of decades old, it a good time to replace that too.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-1...14-G/202579649

[George Bokros]

Thanks for all the ideas. I to bite the bullet and cut a hole in the wall and drill the hole needed to get the new wire into the box to run the power for under cabinet lights.

[Tom M King]

I just drill the hole in the box corner, from the inside of the box, with the device out. I wouldn't cut a hole in the wall if you don't absolutely have to.

[Bernie May]

cut up the bakelite box with tin snips and pull the nails. Use one of these remodel boxes.
Madison Electric Products MSB1G One Gang Device Box with Depth Adjustable

[George Bokros]

cut up the bakelite box with tin snips and pull the nails. Use one of these remodel boxes.
Madison Electric Products MSB1G One Gang Device Box with Depth Adjustable

I am surprised you could cut one with tin snips. Seems thicker than I would think you could cut with snips. I like those boxes, have never seen them usually just the ones with the wings that grip the drywall.

[Tim Hoyt]

Just destroy the existing box, which shouldn't be difficult and get a old work box of whatever size you need. the most difficult part of the endeavor will be threading all the wires into the new box. Spend some time straightening out the wires prior to removing from box, it's time well spent. Can't figure out what an old work box is? Call an electrician...

[Mike Heidrick]

The bakealite not have the tab like holes like blue boxes have?

[George Bokros]

The bakealite not have the tab like holes like blue boxes have?

You have to break out the plug for the wire entry with a hammer and screw driver or punch. My understanding is sometimes the box shatters when you do that.

[Adam Bullington]

Turn the power off label any existing wires pull them out of the box "break or pry loose the existing box go to the big box store get a remodel box with the tabs that secures it to the drywall instead of the studs insert new and old wires and your done.

[Bill Dufour]

cut up the bakelite box with tin snips and pull the nails. Use one of these remodel boxes.
Madison Electric Products MSB1G One Gang Device Box with Depth Adjustable

AFAIK those only work with drywall. My walls are button board and plaster too thick for such an easy fix. I would expect lath and plaster to also be too thick.

[lowell holmes]

I think Adam nailed it.

[George Bokros]

cut up the bakelite box with tin snips and pull the nails. Use one of these remodel boxes.
Madison Electric Products MSB1G One Gang Device Box with Depth Adjustable

Bernie, Thanks for the product recommendation. I just ordered 3 two gang boxes for my kitchen remodel.

[Peter Stahl]

When I replace a box it's usually to go from a single to a double but here's how I do it. I pry the box away from the stud just enough to get a hacksaw blade or sawzall (which I prefer) and cut the nails holding it. Push it into the wall, pull the wires out then pull it out through the hole or just leave it in the wall. I use a old work box like the picture I attached, they have the screws inside the box. HD sells them or go to a electrical supply.

[Mark Kanof]

If you are going to go the route of breaking out the box and replacing with a remodel box, you might want to consider these:

http://www.aifittings.com/catalog/sp...let-boxes/F101

They have two drywall type screws set at an angle on the inside side of the box, so you can slip them into the existing hole, next to the stud, and screw them into the stud. I find these to be a lot better than the typical remodel box with the little tabs that just never seems to fit in place as tight as I would like and sometimes the front part of those tabs prevents the switch plate from sitting flush to the wall depending on type of switch plate you are using.

[johnny means]

This is exactly what a professional would do to replace an existing box. Shouldn't the breaker already be off?