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Thread: Table saw as router table - router fence considerations

  1. #1

    Table saw as router table - router fence considerations

    Hey, all.
    i know there is a bit of a house divided on using your table saw as a router table, but that is the direction I’m heading as I put my shop tool purchase list together.

    i am likely going with a 3 HP Sawstop Professional, but still have to decide on a 36” vs. 52”. I don’t plan on doing a ton of sheet good breakdown on the saw as I have a good track saw and the room to have that set up on a work table. Considering that, do you think the 36” would be sufficient or would you go with the 52”? This is mostly with consideration of the fact that I plan on using it as a router table as well. I have the room, so that’s not really the driving factor.

    Next, I am not quite clear on how the router fences work (attach) with a table saw rail system. Are they all different and all require some type of modification? Are they dependent on the cast iron table insert you select? I could just go with entire SawStop system, now that they have expanded into the router world (cast inserts, lifts, fences, etc), but I think there are some parts of the system where I prefer other manufacturers’ offerings. For example, I’m pretty sure I’m going to go with a Jess Em Master Lift II, not the SawStop lift. There are also some fences from others (like Jess Em) that I like...just not sure how they flange up with the SawStop rails.

    So, what are your experiences/observations? I am continuing to research this but thought I would see if I could learn from y’alls experience as well.

    thanks,
    Dean

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Dean

    Installing a router into a table saw is something that can be very inexpensive, to $1k+ depending on what you want to do.

    If I were to ever go back to installing a router into a table saw extension wing, it would only be using a cast iron extension wing designed for it. Something like a Bench Dog. The bench dog cast iron wing uses it's own fence that requires no alteration to your table saw rails.
    There are also the Incra fence systems which are incredible pieces of machinery.They also run the gamut from providing a stand alone router fence, to a fully integrated package that replaces your existing OEM fence. They're "cadillac" systems, measured by any standard.
    if you have the room, I would take 52" over 36". Not for cutting sheet goods so much as providing support for longer pieces of material, while performing crosscuts.
    I use a shaper, so I haven't kept up on what's really out there these days for router tables. I'm sure that other folks will give you a ton of info.
    Last edited by Mike Cutler; 06-15-2018 at 11:21 AM.
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  3. #3
    Thanks for the reply, Mike.
    cast iron extension wings are definitely on my must-have list - I should have mentioned that. I have seen the bench dog version as well as the SawStop offering. Both of those look like very good quality. If I go with the 52” SawStop table, I would really like to replace the entire wooden table portion with cast iron elements.

    I fully expect to be running into the $1k + territory between the cast extension, lift, fence and dust collection box. I will also be purchasing a router motor. That is another thing I will be doing more investigation into... Sawstop has an offering with the variable speed motor and an externally mounted speed control knob and shutoff switch. Just hasn’t been out long enough to find any reviews or for people to get a good handle on the actual manufacturer... will be combing the ‘net for info there as it comes in.

    I guess I just need to continue to research what elements of the system are most important to me and try to build out from there. I will look again at what Incra has. I believe they have their version of the Jess Em Master Lift II that I might prefer because of the magnetically held rings. I will look closer to see what they offer for fences and if anything in the cast table inserts...can’t remember if I saw those from Incra.

    I am definitely leaning toward the 52” table, better to have it and not really need it... you know .

    Finally, a stand-alone router table is not completely out of the question. I just thought that, with the investment in a large, high-quality table saw and table, I should take advantage of it and integrate the router into it. With the type of projects I expect I will be doing, I don’t think I will have to to a full-size shaper setup... but who knows.

    thanks again for the input. I will go back to the studying up/shopping.

    Dean

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    "I believe they have their version of the Jess Em Master Lift II that I might prefer because of the magnetically held rings."

    Yes they do, and it is wonderful.

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Camas, Wa
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    I am not a router in a table saw kind of guy. I prefer all my machines separate. That being said I would go with a cast iron router table top whether stand alone or in a tablesaw. I have a home made router table but haven't used it since I got a shaper. I would also go with a 52" fence on the table saw since you have the room. If nothing else it makes a great staging area if you can keep it uncluttered. I had a 52" and sold it with the saw it cam with it. I now have a 26" fence which is on my Grizzly. I have shifted it and now have about 33".

  6. #6
    If you're buying a router and lift anyway, check out the Triton router- you can adjust its height through the baseplate. It's worth a look.

  7. #7
    Thanks, Nick. That seems to be the consensus. It certainly looks well built.

    Thanks, Cary. If I do go with the router in the table saw, I will definitely be replacing the wood/melamine with cast iron. In fact, that might be something I do even if I decide to go with a stand alone router table. I just like the idea of the heft and stability. As far as the 52”, that’s definitely the way I’m leaning. Once I get my tractor out of the shop and into its own shelter, space will not be an issue.

    Bert, thanks for the reminder about the Triton. To be honest, I had never hear of/seen triton until I saw April Wilkersons YouTube videos. Then, seems like I heard about them everywhere - especially their routers. Am I right that they were much more popular in Europe and/or Australia? They seem to get good comments and reviews. I had mostly been considering the Porter Cable for the stand alone router motor, but am also very curious about the router motor with the remote speed control that SawStop has just made available fairly recently. I have an older Bosch 1613evs router and a new Mikita cordless trim router, but neither of those would work in the lift, so a-shopping I must go .

    thanks again, guys, for the advice. I anticipate a study session tonight to start getting this nailed down a bit more. I have an electrical upgrade project to do in the shop before I get too carried away, but it won’t stop me from starting to procure...

    Dean

  8. #8
    I haven't used one yet so I can't say.

    I do know you can get router speed controls on Amazon for like $20 though so I wouldn't worry too much about the SS remote speed control.

  9. #9
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    A built in router table on a table saw is a great space saver for those in dire need of the space, but there are disadvantages compared to a stand alone unit. If you have the space, there's no question....get separate station.
    Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    My router table is itself an old repurposed table saw top attached to my Unisaw, so I can use the Unifence on it as well. Been that way for decades and I would never change it. Uses an ancient 3-1/2 hp Stanley router.

    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  11. #11
    Join Date
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    NE Iowa
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    I have a Bench Dog cast iron router table and lift as the right wing on my table saw. I like it. There are disadvantages to be sure - any router setup seriously limits the table saw after all. But for all that, given my space limitations, I find it a highly viable setup. If I had the space, I'd go standalone, but as an amateur, don't really lose enough flexibility to sweat it.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Rochester, Minn
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    Another option

    I use an old Delta shaper as my outfeed, solid and heavy, and have a router wing attached to it. I made my own (bench dog wasn't around yet) but would use theirs if doing it again. The Incra fence is mounted to a piece of 1/2 inch ply, and held in the miter slots using fingerboard hardware. It's also the fence for my 26" Moak bandsaw. The fence is very easy to attach and detach --- if for some reason I need to pause the routing task to run just one more table saw cut it's off and on in a trice AND it holds the position perfectly. (And yes, that happens too often.) The router bit is not in the way for a saw cut of < 12".
    For those looking closely, my tablesaw, shaper, etc are up on a 5" pedestal as I like them a bit taller. A single 6" dust collection pipe connects to the underneath space. The table saw has an overhead mounted shark guard which is folded up in the photo.

    Terry T.

    IMG_20180617_170743877.jpgIMG_20180617_180520779.jpgIMG_20180617_170842598.jpg
    Last edited by Terry Therneau; 06-17-2018 at 8:06 PM. Reason: spelling error

  13. #13
    Thanks, guys. I appreciate the feedback, experiences and ideas.

    I had the tractor out yesterday and was doing some measuring while the shop was empty. While I would have room for a separate router table, I am more and more convinced that I will combine. I have 1/4 of the 900 sq. feet set up with tool boxes and workbenches. Another 1/4 has wood racks around the perimeter that stick into the workspace a bit. If I use the opposite corner as a layout table area, that means the remainng area will be reserved for the table saw and possible out feed table. Sprinkle in room for a band saw and drill press and I’m going to start getting a little tight on space. It looks like a lot of room right now, but I know it will fill up fast.

    Another question about the router that will go into the router table. Whether I am looking at the Dewalt, Porter Cable or Triton, I believe they are all variable speed (and likely soft start). The way I understand it, that rules out any speed control device as they are not compatible with the soft start and variable speed circuitry on board those routers. So, am I stuck changing the speed on the router itself on the occasions where a different speed is necessary? Not a big deal except it will be in an inconvenient location under the table and inside a dust collection box.

    this is making the Jess Em router with the integral remote variable speed/shutoff switch and umbilical look a bit more appetizing. If only I knew more about the pedigree of the Jess Em router... basis the quality of their stuff, I would like to believe the router they source would be good quality, but hard to research.

    What I’m talking about from Jess Em is the Pow R Tek... any thoughts or info on where that router comes from?

    I'm trying to avoid paralysis by analysis here, but would like to do as much right the first time as possible. In the end, I am just a hobbyist, so no income-producing skin off my nose if I make a couple of less-than-perfect choices, but would like to minimize the “D’OHH!!” moments. I’m sure you all understand.

    Dean

  14. #14
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    If you have the room go with the 52”. I don’t use mine that often but it is nice to have when you need it.
    I have 2 routers in my Unisaw. It’s a good use of space in a crowded shop..(see pic ).
    I’m not sure if they make them anymore but my Woodhaven router fence simply clamps on to my Bies fence. It takes only a few seconds to mount and works great on either lift.
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  15. #15
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    The Jessem motor is also known as the AUK motor made by Swiss Tech in China and I doubt it it has any connection with Switzerland! The first generation was a failure and it was pulled from sale due to a badly designed speed controller but the present generation has no reported problems and has been on sale for at least a year.

    You can use a CNC spindle with VFD instead of a router motor, it has a far better duty cycle, uses ER colletts, is very quiet when compared to any router, braking can be used to slow the router bit quicker and the VFD control panel can be mounted above the table. In the Aussie WW forums there is a current thread concerning CNC spindles and the fence and lift will be automated with keyed in target dimension on a touch screen.

    Here is a CNC spindle featured in Popular WW some years ago. https://www.popularwoodworking.com/p...de-router-lift.
    Chris

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