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Thread: Cantilever Deck Problems - Rotten Wood

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
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    1,415
    FYI: six died in this balcony collapse caused by dry rot. Within a month or so the city closed the fishing pier as being unsafe.
    Bil lD.

    https://www.mercurynews.com/2017/06/...cony-collapse/

  2. #17
    A couple more thoughts:
    1. Regular laminated beams are not rated for exterior use.
    2. Lag bolts are no longer acceptable for structural loads.
    3. Though you may not be worried about the structure, if someone gets hurt because it collapses, guess who pays the freight.
    4. Just because the house was built in 1979 does not mean the deck was properly built to start with.
    5. Ohio has adopted the IBC and the IRC for the entire state.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA- '71
    Captain USN(Ret)

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  3. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    E TN, near Knoxville
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    5,800
    Quote Originally Posted by Mark W Pugh View Post
    I agree with this. KDAT lumber is expensive, but may be my only option.
    I prefer KDAT, we are usng it in certain places on a new deck now.

    For a cantilever, I would look into using steel. Either way, it needs to be professionally engineered. IMO

    JKJ

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Little Hocking, OH
    Posts
    615
    I'll try to get some pix when I get home. The deck sticks out 5.5' from the exterior wall. The joists extend in the house about 10'. Again, all are accessible.

    Thanks for the replies.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Bellingham, Washington
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    1,110
    You said the house is brick. Is it brick veneer (regular wood framing and sheathing with the brick on the outside) or solid, multi-course brick? If veneer (likely given when the house was built) you would be better off cutting off the joists, install a ledger and build the deck independent of the cantilever.
    Bracken's Pond Woodworks

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Little Hocking, OH
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    615
    Quote Originally Posted by David Helm View Post
    You said the house is brick. Is it brick veneer (regular wood framing and sheathing with the brick on the outside) or solid, multi-course brick? If veneer (likely given when the house was built) you would be better off cutting off the joists, install a ledger and build the deck independent of the cantilever.
    It's veneer. How would I install a ledger on the veneer? I thought that was not to code.

    Pictures to follow.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Highland MI
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    My last trip to Menard's included some PT 2x10's 12 and 16 feet. Surprised they were kiln dried without asking for KDAT. They were $22.47 and $16.98 each respectively. As long as you replace in kind, and you haven't noticed any bounce problems, you should be good to replace. I wouldn't sister to already rotting external joists either. Lag screws, not bolts, are your friend. Run them in with an impact driver, no pre-drilling like with lag bolts. Or bolt through as you stated.
    NOW you tell me...

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Bellingham, Washington
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    1,110
    Quote Originally Posted by Mark W Pugh View Post
    It's veneer. How would I install a ledger on the veneer? I thought that was not to code.

    Pictures to follow.
    ou drill through the veneer, or mortar, and attach the ledger to the rim joist using appropriate fasteners (ledger lock is a good one).
    Y
    Bracken's Pond Woodworks

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