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Thread: Cantilever Deck Problems - Rotten Wood

  1. #16
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    FYI: six died in this balcony collapse caused by dry rot. Within a month or so the city closed the fishing pier as being unsafe.
    Bil lD.

    https://www.mercurynews.com/2017/06/...cony-collapse/

  2. #17
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    A couple more thoughts:
    1. Regular laminated beams are not rated for exterior use.
    2. Lag bolts are no longer acceptable for structural loads.
    3. Though you may not be worried about the structure, if someone gets hurt because it collapses, guess who pays the freight.
    4. Just because the house was built in 1979 does not mean the deck was properly built to start with.
    5. Ohio has adopted the IBC and the IRC for the entire state.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

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  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark W Pugh View Post
    I agree with this. KDAT lumber is expensive, but may be my only option.
    I prefer KDAT, we are usng it in certain places on a new deck now.

    For a cantilever, I would look into using steel. Either way, it needs to be professionally engineered. IMO

    JKJ

  4. #19
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    Feb 2012
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    Little Hocking, OH
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    I'll try to get some pix when I get home. The deck sticks out 5.5' from the exterior wall. The joists extend in the house about 10'. Again, all are accessible.

    Thanks for the replies.

  5. #20
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    You said the house is brick. Is it brick veneer (regular wood framing and sheathing with the brick on the outside) or solid, multi-course brick? If veneer (likely given when the house was built) you would be better off cutting off the joists, install a ledger and build the deck independent of the cantilever.
    Bracken's Pond Woodworks[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Helm View Post
    You said the house is brick. Is it brick veneer (regular wood framing and sheathing with the brick on the outside) or solid, multi-course brick? If veneer (likely given when the house was built) you would be better off cutting off the joists, install a ledger and build the deck independent of the cantilever.
    It's veneer. How would I install a ledger on the veneer? I thought that was not to code.

    Pictures to follow.

  7. #22
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    My last trip to Menard's included some PT 2x10's 12 and 16 feet. Surprised they were kiln dried without asking for KDAT. They were $22.47 and $16.98 each respectively. As long as you replace in kind, and you haven't noticed any bounce problems, you should be good to replace. I wouldn't sister to already rotting external joists either. Lag screws, not bolts, are your friend. Run them in with an impact driver, no pre-drilling like with lag bolts. Or bolt through as you stated.
    NOW you tell me...

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark W Pugh View Post
    It's veneer. How would I install a ledger on the veneer? I thought that was not to code.

    Pictures to follow.
    ou drill through the veneer, or mortar, and attach the ledger to the rim joist using appropriate fasteners (ledger lock is a good one).
    Y
    Bracken's Pond Woodworks[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  9. #24
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    Feb 2012
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    Little Hocking, OH
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    IMG_1025.jpg

    Deck in need of repair.

    IMG_1024.jpg

    Inside photos

    IMG_1027.jpg

    IMG_1028.jpg

    So, I have access to the joists, both below and above the floor they support.

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark W Pugh View Post
    I was thinking about sistering the floor joists. Coming in with the exterior joist by 6'
    That would be a typical repair technique.

    then using 3' on either side of the the joist's butted ends.
    I don't understand what you mean by that.
    .

    Looking at the photos, I hope you have a brick saw.

    Edit: I see what you mean. You will cut off the end of each joist somewhere inside the house and removed the end of the joist. You will replace the end with a new board and splice the new board to the rest of the existing joist using a third board.
    Last edited by Stephen Tashiro; 06-27-2018 at 2:52 AM.

  11. #26
    Okay
    Follow the old rule of thumb
    if the cantilever is 5' you need at least 10' inside
    treated wood should work by sistering existing floor joists
    I wood also install crush blocks to support the the upper wall

    when you start removing brick you could be opening a can of worms
    if the joists are rotting, the wall system could also be compromised

    good luck
    Carpe Lignum

  12. #27
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    Having dealt with this problem before I'd ditch the cantilever, which will be an unending source of problems, and put in posts both at the house and the edge of the deck to support it without relying on the house structure. You can tie it to the house, but do it in such a way that you can flash the connection properly. Let the new post and beam system actually hold the deck up. Your current system is a recipe for allowing water, rot, and termites into the structure of your house; a classically bad idea.

  13. #28
    Roger You want him to put posts and beams in his driveway?
    I sure hope no one hits them!
    Quote Originally Posted by Mark W Pugh View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by roger wiegand View Post
    Having dealt with this problem before I'd ditch the cantilever, which will be an unending source of problems, and put in posts both at the house and the edge of the deck to support it without relying on the house structure. You can tie it to the house, but do it in such a way that you can flash the connection properly. Let the new post and beam system actually hold the deck up. Your current system is a recipe for allowing water, rot, and termites into the structure of your house; a classically bad idea.
    Carpe Lignum

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lee Schierer View Post
    Your first step should probably check building codes to see if your cantilever deck is permitted. Then consult a good structural engineer for proper support sizing and materials.
    This is what you need to do because of the liability it places on you. has your insurance company weighed in on the subject?

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by phil harold View Post
    Roger You want him to put posts and beams in his driveway?
    I sure hope no one hits them!
    I suspect Roger was thinking that the apron was wide enough for a vehicle to swing around to enter the garage. That holding true, there could be a post at each corner of the deck and at the center, for a total of (6) posts. Again, given an adequate driveway apron, that would work & be structurally sound and a least expensive alternative. It would allow for joists to be installed (sistered) to the existing joists & supported by a ledger boards on top of,or attached, to the posts without affecting the brick wall, all this providing there is no joist rot inside the house. As for the post on the entry side of the apron he could add some type of framework to increase the visibility of the post to prevent driving into it.

    I think Roger has presented a very viable and cost effective way to remedy this problem. Also, if there is enough land with adequate setback the driveway apron could be expanded if needed. This would basically leave the house alone.
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