The Lee Valley saddle square looks nice. It looks like you can make one by gluing the edge of a flat piece of wood to the face of another piece of wood then crosscutting at 90 degrees. Anybody make one & is happy with it?
The Lee Valley saddle square looks nice. It looks like you can make one by gluing the edge of a flat piece of wood to the face of another piece of wood then crosscutting at 90 degrees. Anybody make one & is happy with it?
I have one and like it. It is worth the price.
Anyone can make their own dovetail squares, saddle squares, any squares in fact. The big question is how flat, straight, accurate or square your end product turns out to be? If you are happy with the degree of tolerance (or the lack of it) of your shop-made tool, you will be happy with it. I did make a saddle square out of a hinge but it has been retired after I received a Veritas' (large size).
Simon
Nothing wrong with the saddle square as that is the route a friend chose. I made my own and they can be pretty accurate. Simply laid out a 10 degree angle on the bench and then drew a line to match on both sides, sanded to the line and it's worked well. Even though I've made standard ones, I threw them away preferring to use the Paul Sellers style. Been happy with that for years. If I hadn't made it, I'd have opted for the LV.
I have the smaller LV saddle square. It works just fine.
I've also made my own from a small hinge and from wood. It works fine. I like the LV best.
Fred
"All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."
“If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”
Thanks for the advice! Mark
I have the LV saddle, and it works. However the saddle square that I use all the time is one from Bridge City ... probably the cheapest and most useful tool they made ...
I also made one for a friend many years ago ...
The central feature of these saddles is the articulating joint, which enables it to wrap around corners that are not 90 degrees.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Beautiful tool Derek!
I have the LV Small Version. I got it years ago and use it all the time.
Sharp solves all manner of problems.
I have Lee Valley's. There is some satisfaction in making your own if you want to. I've had them for years and use them enough to where they hang on the outside of one of my wall mounted tool cabinets.
Mark-n-Measure.JPG
They are still inexpensive enough that I would just pick one up if shop made isn't your thing.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Mark,
I find that when extended square lines around corners, you know... 90 degree work, the square in my hand works fine. Whatever that is, most often a 4" double square. Saddle squares are great, but not often enough value add to make me stop and go get it.
However, when marking out dovetails, which are not neat 90 degree lines, I find a saddle marker very helpful. But not the normal one. I am talking about a dovetail marker with a hinge that serves to mark out the angled dovetail and the adjacent face in one go. That use of a saddle square really helps me with marking (and sawing) accuracy.
If you want to go cheap, door butts will work.
You don't need a saddle square. It is not a traditional woodworking tool. I was working wood for more than 35 years before I heard of one. The 1984 Lee Valley catalog has 154 pages and no saddle square. The 1995 Garrett Wade catalog has 176 pages, lots of squares, no saddle square.
The Lee Valley saddle square page today says:
"Transferring a line from one surface to another perpendicular surface with a small square is never easy.
Try wrapping this line around all faces and you'll see how far off you can be."
This is pure rubbish. If you cannot do it easily and accurately you don't know how to use a square.