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Thread: Advice on Moving 800# Jointer into basement

  1. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Warren Lake View Post
    I took one combo apart no big deal but simpler on a combo agree dont take it apart unless necessary. Setting it up again a whole project. Be interesting to put a straight edge on a new one and see just how well they are set up.
    My 882HH was set up beautifully from the factory, good to go. I doubt I could get it any better without spending several days at it and then I'd probably just wind up where I started from. I'm working with Starrett straightedges, made with love in Athol (i.e. not the imports, which I have no opinion on.)

    "Nice setup you have there, shame if anything were to happen to it."
    Last edited by Doug Dawson; 06-10-2018 at 1:17 PM.

  2. #17
    the block and tackle I use is only meant to be used vertical. Im not very good at following rules, it needs a bit more care not following the rules but works excellent. While I think of it I have a block and tackle where they missed welding on of the links, just blurting it out. suppose that is very rare.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Itapevi, SP - Brazil
    Posts
    672
    Seeing you pictures I think you are near to bring it downstairs. I think 2 to 4 people will solve that with no additional equipment... except, perhaps, a crown bar.

    Can you get help from neighbors, relatives or friends?

  4. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Osvaldo Cristo View Post
    Can you get help from neighbors, relatives or friends?
    Mmmm, slidey. If something were to go wrong there, one of his helpers could own his house. That's why I prefer to hire people who can present proof of insurance (not "a couple of guys with a rope.")

  5. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Dufour View Post
    Tilt deck trailer will get it started down the stairs for you.
    Bill D.
    I think I’m good to go with the lift trailer, Johnson bar, perpendicular sled on the stairs and a winch.
    Any advice on a certain winch to use? Will likely rent it from sunbelt with the trailer and bar.

  6. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Dawson View Post
    My 882HH was set up beautifully from the factory, good to go. I doubt I could get it any better without spending several days at it and then I'd probably just wind up where I started from. I'm working with Starrett straightedges, made with love in Athol (i.e. not the imports, which I have no opinion on.)

    "Nice setup you have there, shame if anything were to happen to it."
    Doug- What should I plan on for setup, besides a straightedge? Any tips?

  7. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by Joey Monheit View Post
    Doug- What should I plan on for setup, besides a straightedge? Any tips?
    Your number one priority is to make sure those knife inserts are all tightened down properly. For that you will need something to measure how hard you are torquing the screws, i.e. a torque wrench or the equivalent. There are some screwdriver-type devices, but I prefer a beam- or band-type torque wrench, in the 100 in-lb range. The one I use is a Tohnichi 120SF-A, but you can get away with a much cheaper beam-type unit in that range (NOT one of the larger torque wrenches, it's important that the ~50in-lb of the screws be in the middle of the range of your instrument, or you can really mess things up.) It's hard to screw up a beam-type torque wrench if you're in the correct range, although some dare to try.

    Marc Spagnuolo (theWoodWhisperer) did a really good YouTube video on setting up the 882 tables: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gO746cuRqV4
    I can't describe it better than he did.

    BTW, the manual that comes with the machine is very good, and goes into great detail.
    Last edited by Doug Dawson; 06-11-2018 at 5:59 AM.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    waterloo, il
    Posts
    18
    A 1/2 ton come-a-long or chainfall will work, 1 ton would be overkill but still would work fine. You just need a point to attach the hook or sling. I suspect that when you slide the pallet/crate off the trailer onto your sled track on the stairs, it will not move as easily as you might think from the friction between the runners on the pallet and the wood surface of the sled. The good thing is that the friction will give you more control on moving the crate down the stairs. I have been there/done that. Good Luck.
    Joe
    Engineer - noun (en-juh-neer)
    Someone who does precision guesswork based on unreliable data provided by those of questionable knowledge.
    See also wizard, magician

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NE Ohio
    Posts
    7,016
    Can you get help from neighbors, relatives or friends?
    Unfortunately.....here in the states we have become litigation crazed. Also - dead weight over 500# takes on a life of it's own. Real serious injury can happen real, real, real fast with a load of that sort. When I was younger (I'm 66 now), I used to view something like this as a challenge to my ingenuity. Now, I just see it as a potential threat to my health and/or wallet.... This is something I'd be using Angie's list or Home Adviser to find an insured mover to do.
    "Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." - John Lennon

  10. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Dawson View Post
    Your number one priority is to make sure those knife inserts are all tightened down properly. For that you will need something to measure how hard you are torquing the screws, i.e. a torque wrench or the equivalent. There are some screwdriver-type devices, but I prefer a beam- or band-type torque wrench, in the 100 in-lb range. The one I use is a Tohnichi 120SF-A, but you can get away with a much cheaper beam-type unit in that range (NOT one of the larger torque wrenches, it's important that the ~50in-lb of the screws be in the middle of the range of your instrument, or you can really mess things up.) It's hard to screw up a beam-type torque wrench if you're in the correct range, although some dare to try.

    Marc Spagnuolo (theWoodWhisperer) did a really good YouTube video on setting up the 882 tables: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gO746cuRqV4
    I can't describe it better than he did.

    BTW, the manual that comes with the machine is very good, and goes into great detail.
    Thanks for the info. I will definitely watch the full video prior to setup. Is it really necessary to use a torque wrench to tighten the inserts?
    I see PM includes two wrenches.

  11. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by Joey Monheit View Post
    Thanks for the info. I will definitely watch the full video prior to setup. Is it really necessary to use a torque wrench to tighten the inserts?
    I see PM includes two wrenches.
    Yes, IMO. There have been too many anecdotal reports of problems with the inserts not being correctly tightened, to not do this. You can buy a proper torque wrench for it for maybe twenty or thirty bucks, so it's a no-brainer.

    Same goes for the planer.

    Same goes for any insert-based cutterhead, check the manual for the torque settings.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    North Dana, Masachusetts
    Posts
    489
    Look at hiring a rigger. Movers move household goods.Riggers move machines.

    Given the cost of the rental equipment, and risk of catastrophic failure of the stairs or house anchor points, it would be a bargain. The stairs themselves might not be strong enough to bear the weight of the jointer. If nothing else, watching riggers work is an education in what tools to get, and how to use them. They also have insurance.

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Pottstown PA
    Posts
    972
    I had a big northfield planer to get into my basement and I got a flat bed wrecker to pick it up (it was skidded with 4x4's) and he backed up to my basement (similar to yours), and he tilted the bed up and we used his wench cable to ease it down. We went egyption and put some galvinized pipe under it and let gravity do the rest.
    I just sold it last year and we used block-n-tackel to get it back up the stairs.

    Gravity is your friend going downhill but a cuss going back up!

    Cheers.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    West Lafayette, IN
    Posts
    6,530
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Heath View Post
    I would take it apart, and install in the basement in smaller, more manageable pieces. View it as an opportunity to get to know your new machine, as well as clean the machined surfaces and get some proper lubrication on them for corrosion protection.
    Don’t overlook this post. Making it lighter makes it all easier. My 1000lb jointer breaks down into about 7 manageable pieces.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    So Cal
    Posts
    3,765
    I disagree bad idea to take apart a jointer that's setup at the factory. You'll never get it dialed in the same. But you'll have a new appreciation to the guy that does this job at the factory.
    Aj

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