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Thread: Delta DJ-15 Bearing question

  1. #1

    Delta DJ-15 Bearing question

    Hey folks, picked up a used Delta DJ-15 37-150 on Craigslist last week for $300.

    Im in the process of cleaning it up, the beds are flat and mostly free of rust, cleaned up relatively easy.The cutter head is another story. Bunch of rust and the knives need some TLC.

    i pulled the cutterhead out and removed the pulley, snap rings and bearings. My plan is to soak all the parts including the cutterhead in evaporust. I've done this on the knives and holders and they came out looking great. I'll do the same with the cutterhead.

    the bearings look fine, but one is a little gritty so I figured I may as well replace them both (I think they are orig from 1997). They are both Nachi 6004nsl made in Japan. This is my first tool restore so I am not familiar with bearing types and numbers. I found some Nachi 6004 2nsl on eBay which appear like they would work, only difference being they are sealed on both sides. Can anyone confirm compatibility?

    thanks in advance!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    9,979
    Any 6004 bearing should be fine. I recommend sealed instead of shielded. I would not pay more then $2-3 dollars each, delivered.
    Bill D

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Central WI
    Posts
    5,666
    Those are very small bearings. I'd get Natchi Quest or SKF Explorer. Both are slightly better bearings. You want standard clearance. Do not get C3. CN or C2 for a spindle bearing of that size. Don't buy shielded bearings on ebay. Sealed are OK because you can remove a seal and inspect the grease. Otherwise go to a bearing house to get new stock. Open bearings can be a great deal on NOS but when you can't inspect the grease you want to be sure they are fairly new. If the bearing is really shielded or sealed on one side and there is a reason, it is cheaper to buy those with both sides covered and remove on side. Dave

  4. #4
    Thank you Bill and David! Found a local Nachi and SKF dealer nearby, ill swing in to purchase local.

    next question, I would love to upgrade to a Byrd shelix head...but will I outgrow 6" jointer? There is someone selling a DJ20 now on CL for $750 which seems like a good deal, got me thinking I should clean this up and resell to get the dj20. I'm just afraid if I upgrade to the shelix on the 6", then decide to go 8", I'll be taking a loss since I doubt I could sell for $650 ($300 for DJ15+$350 byrd).

    this is my first jointer so I don't really know how much I'll use it in the shop. I have a makita 12" planer but up to this point, I have purchased all my hardwood S2s. That said, most of the rough stock I've acquired recently is all > 6".

    decisions, decisions...

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Camas, Wa
    Posts
    3,856
    I waited to get a 8" jointer to put a byrd in. I didn't feel I was going to keep the 6" long enough to put the money into. I would buy the DJ-20 if it checks out. Some people say the that a byrd in a jointer is a waste. I hate setting blades. The jointer is quieter. It has been 5 years or more and I haven't rotated the knives. Not a nick one yet. Straight knives lasted about 5 minutes before getting a nick. I wasn't using dirty wood either.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Landenberg, Pa
    Posts
    431
    I did exactly what you’re doing. I ended up flipping the DJ15 pretty quickly for the DJ20. I’d jump on the DJ20 if it’s in decent shape. You won’t regret going to the larger jointer (and a Byrd is only $100 more on the DJ20).

    Quote Originally Posted by Dustin talbott View Post
    Thank you Bill and David! Found a local Nachi and SKF dealer nearby, ill swing in to purchase local.

    next question, I would love to upgrade to a Byrd shelix head...but will I outgrow 6" jointer? There is someone selling a DJ20 now on CL for $750 which seems like a good deal, got me thinking I should clean this up and resell to get the dj20. I'm just afraid if I upgrade to the shelix on the 6", then decide to go 8", I'll be taking a loss since I doubt I could sell for $650 ($300 for DJ15+$350 byrd).

    this is my first jointer so I don't really know how much I'll use it in the shop. I have a makita 12" planer but up to this point, I have purchased all my hardwood S2s. That said, most of the rough stock I've acquired recently is all > 6".

    decisions, decisions...

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by William Chain View Post
    I did exactly what you’re doing. I ended up flipping the DJ15 pretty quickly for the DJ20. I’d jump on the DJ20 if it’s in decent shape. You won’t regret going to the larger jointer (and a Byrd is only $100 more on the DJ20).

    Yeah, great suggestions. I'm out of town for work for the next week, if the DJ20 is still around I think I'll pull the trigger.

    I've never set or sharpened jointer knives but I think the time it will take away from actual shop time (which is scarce to begin with) would justify the byrd for the 8". Not to mention the benefits of a cleaner cut/less potential for tearout.

    Regarding the sale of the DJ-15, what do you think a fair price would be? I felt I got a good deal at $300. I upgraded the belt to a power twist link and will do the bearings, so I'm roughly in at $350 plus my time. Is $400 fair? Or $450?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Landenberg, Pa
    Posts
    431
    Setting the knives isn’t too hard a job. Takes me an hour, if that, to do a knife change with all my OCD adjustments. I haven’t done the Byrd yet, I ended up spending that budget on a used drum sander 😀

    I’d just get the $300 back out of the DJ15 and walk if you end up getting the DJ20. The 6” jointers come up a lot, no sense sweating $50 or putting up with tire kickers over that difference.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dustin talbott View Post
    Yeah, great suggestions. I'm out of town for work for the next week, if the DJ20 is still around I think I'll pull the trigger.

    I've never set or sharpened jointer knives but I think the time it will take away from actual shop time (which is scarce to begin with) would justify the byrd for the 8". Not to mention the benefits of a cleaner cut/less potential for tearout.

    Regarding the sale of the DJ-15, what do you think a fair price would be? I felt I got a good deal at $300. I upgraded the belt to a power twist link and will do the bearings, so I'm roughly in at $350 plus my time. Is $400 fair? Or $450?

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