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Thread: Switch Selectable Box with Two Twist-lock Receptacles

  1. #16
    There's nothing unsafe about splitting an outlet, and code doesn't apply to things you plug into an outlet. It's about things that are hard-wired. Even if you overload the circuit, you just trip the breaker.

  2. #17
    I just built this power bar splitter this past weekend. It wasn’t cheap, just over $300. Each receptacle(wiring device) has a 30 amp rating and the cord is only 14 gauge, But it has only 6amp fuses prior to it. If I counted each plug that went into that power bar and the receptacle for that Power bar it would be pushing $500. Each female cost $48 each male $38. L17–30’s. All Hubbell.

    6923574D-AC3E-4AC7-BDEA-DF43A4DF0EB0.jpg
    Last edited by Matt Mattingley; 06-13-2018 at 1:15 AM.

  3. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by joseph mansker View Post
    I don't disagree with James on his point regarding electrical advice if you do not do further research. Most building codes require separate circuits for 240v applications such as your dryer, electric range/oven, water heater, etc. Even your circuits for your refrigerator, freezer and dishwasher are dedicated circuits although they are normally 120v. I use dedicated 240v circuits in my shop because its my choice to do so and its good practice. Although, I have to say that I rarely have two machines running at the same time. But I am a conservative guy. Safety first.
    Joe
    To be even more explicit, the current NEC code (in the United States) requires that each 240V receptacle be on its own breaker. If you violate this, and something happens to your house (fire?) even if it has nothing to do with your plugs, insurance companies are always _gleefully_ looking for ways to deny claims.

  4. #19
    And to continue the explicitness, that's for hard-wired receptacles, not extension cords or multi-outlet cords. Per our home inspection people, the multi-outlet SJ cords I have laying on the ground going to a single outlet are not covered by any code requirements. The key is whether they are "permanent." In our area, commercial facilities have a 30 day limit on "temporary," but they said nothing like that applies to residential.

    States and regions may vary.

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Dawson View Post
    To be even more explicit, the current NEC code (in the United States) requires that each 240V receptacle be on its own breaker.
    Are you sure about that? Please point to the specific statement in the code that you think requires that. My understanding of the code is that there is no difference between 120V and 240V circuits.
    Beranek's Law:

    It has been remarked that if one selects his own components, builds his own enclosure, and is convinced he has made a wise choice of design, then his own loudspeaker sounds better to him than does anyone else's loudspeaker. In this case, the frequency response of the loudspeaker seems to play only a minor part in forming a person's opinion.
    L.L. Beranek, Acoustics (McGraw-Hill, New York, 1954), p.208.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Dawson View Post
    To be even more explicit, the current NEC code (in the United States) requires that each 240V receptacle be on its own breaker.

    Please cite the applicable NEC section.


    Edit: Consider this. What difference is there in a 240v 4 wire circuit and a 120v multi-wire branch circuit inside the walls?
    Last edited by Van Huskey; 06-12-2018 at 5:43 PM.
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  7. #22
    I should clarify my post... I didn't mean to suggest that he's right about the 240 dedicated breaker requirement, but that despite that, if true, plug-in cords aren't covered. I've never found anything that says you must have one breaker per receptacle, but it's so hard to prove a negative. In any case, cords are not prohibited.

  8. #23
    Doug, where does it say that?

    (It doesn't)

    Moreover, what exactly is the risk? If you overload a 120V circuit, the breaker trips and prevents potential danger. If you overload 240V circuit....the breaker trips and prevents potential danger.


    As I said earlier, people seem to lose their minds (and their logic) when talking about 240V...

  9. #24
    Doug, I think that’s only for home appliances. You can’t have your dryer on the same circuit as your AC unit. Or your welding plug in your garage on the same circuit as your stove. Do you have the NEC reference number?

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Mattingley View Post
    Doug, I think that’s only for home appliances.
    That is likely the source of the confusion. Most homes have nothing but dedicated 240V circuits because they only have 240V circuits for appliances that are required to have dedicated circuits.


    Note one ALWAYS has to check local codes and there are some that require dedicated circuits for ALL (120 or 240) runs over a certain ampacity, usually, this is 20 amps.

    I go back to my illustration using the 120V multi wire branch circuit. Many modern kitchens will have them in order to economically meet the requirement for 2 circuits to the kitchen countertop. You have the same 240v potential there as in a 240v circuit.
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  11. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Friedrichs View Post

    As I said earlier, people seem to lose their minds (and their logic) when talking about 240V...
    That is SO true, but I'd extend that to anything outside of normal household circuits. I had a long conversation with a friend about powering his travel trailer (120v 30a) at home. He just couldn't wrap his head around any of the current requirements, what can run from a 15a, 20a, or 30a outlet, etc etc. Normally he just gets it. This happens to me often.

  12. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by Carlos Alvarez View Post
    That is SO true, but I'd extend that to anything outside of normal household circuits. I had a long conversation with a friend about powering his travel trailer (120v 30a) at home. He just couldn't wrap his head around any of the current requirements, what can run from a 15a, 20a, or 30a outlet, etc etc. Normally he just gets it. This happens to me often.
    As I posted (post #17) L17–30 splitter cord... add a little bit a three phase and 600 V and the confusion gets a little more. That little cord will run almost 15 hp of machinery. It’s restriction is the cord. It could run up to 30 hp of machinery if the supply, the fused disconnect, fusing and wiring were all adequate.

    There are guys who run 20 hp 3p in their single phase shops.

    I believe under the NEC the feeder line is only allowed to be 250% of device load potential.
    Last edited by Matt Mattingley; 06-13-2018 at 1:57 AM.

  13. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by David L Morse View Post
    Are you sure about that? Please point to the specific statement in the code that you think requires that. My understanding of the code is that there is no difference between 120V and 240V circuits.
    I went to look at the nfpa.org document that I was using before, and it is currently a giant pile of dysfunction, i.e. unreadable on my laptop. What is up with those guys.

    I wanted to do what some of y'all are doing, or at least have it as an option, and it was a nogo re passing inspection, with the argument as I stated. I understood why, and I agree. What I will do is print out all the replies to my post, and present them as proof to the code inspector that everything should be okay. That should be sufficient. Thanks!

    Ugh, I can't see as well as I used to. Don't ever get old. Somebody come over here and help old Uncle Cletus.
    Last edited by Jim Becker; 06-13-2018 at 9:18 AM. Reason: language

  14. #29
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    NFPA70 2017 table 210.24 lists the acceptable number of taps on 15, 20, and 30 amp branch circuits as 14 regardless of voltage. There is no rule mandating only one outlet on a general purpose 240 volt branch circuit.


    Last edited by John Lanciani; 06-13-2018 at 6:51 AM.

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Mattingley View Post
    I just built this power bar splitter this past weekend. It wasn’t cheap, just over $300. Each receptacle(wiring device) has a 30 amp rating and the cord is only 14 gauge, But it has only 6amp fuses prior to it. If I counted each plug that went into that power bar and the receptacle for that Power bar it would be pushing $500. Each female cost $48 each male $38. L17–30’s. All Hubbell.

    6923574D-AC3E-4AC7-BDEA-DF43A4DF0EB0.jpg
    Wow Matt, next time use straight blade devices...........Rod.

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