Removing rusted/rotted/old screws from deck

[Robert Hartmann]

I just took apart a 20x40 deck with 1" Ipe that I couldn't back the screws out of. I ended up just using a crow bar, which actually worked pretty well. Some screws pull out of the Ipe and others broke off. I took the time to "unscrew" some of the screws with vice grips, but ended up just whacking them with a big hammer (broke off even). We had no issues putting down the composite.

[lowell holmes]

Well, we need a report. How did it go?

[Justin Foley]

I was just thinking of you guys! So, all of the screws are out, demo has been completed (finally). I started putting up the boards last week and I'm chugging along. I guess I'm about... a little over 1/4 of the way? It's a 350 sq. ft. deck, so it's taking some time. I've also noticed the joists are not 16" on center. Some are 13", some are 14 5/8". That's not helping speed up the process because I have to cut nearly every board. I'm using only 8' boards because that's what will fit in the car. There's no good access point to the backyard for a forklift, so I can't really have anyone deliver decking. Putting it on the driveway isn't an option.

My contractor neighbor swung by to see how it was going. He noticed a left to right waviness, but other than that, he said it looks good. Truth be told, I have absolutely no idea what I'm doing. Thanks to the power of the interwebs (and you guys!), it'll turn out just fine.

[Ole Anderson]

Oops, just saw your last post. Well for anyone else tackling a deck removal project: Deck wrecker bar. Worth every penny. Been there. https://www.homedepot.com/p/51-in-De...FYYUPwod6A0FyQ

[Justin Foley]

I saw this at HD AFTER I had finished demo. My first thought was WHY NOW?!?!?!? Of course, I've probably seen it there before and had no idea what it was.

Only about 12 more boards to go and then I can start the railing. That should be the easy part. A quick sanding to knock out the little splintery holes and then I can power wash and stain. The end is near!

[Rich Engelhardt]

A quick sanding to knock out the little splintery holes and then I can power wash and stain. The end is near!

Just an FYI - if you're using treated, hold off on the staining until next year.
We have a couple decks at a rental that they put down, then "made them look good for the sale of the house". They put on the stain before the treated had a good chance to really dry out and be able to accept a stain.

Every other year, my wife and I have to take a couple of belt sanders and sand out the parts that lift off. We sit at opposite ends of the deck, lock the sanders on, then feed them to each other by the cords,,,,then turn them around and feed them back.
Other than passing some time with my wife & sharing some time together, it's one miserable job.

[Frank Pratt]

Every other year, my wife and I have to take a couple of belt sanders and sand out the parts that lift off. We sit at opposite ends of the deck, lock the sanders on, then feed them to each other by the cords,,,,then turn them around and feed them back.
Other than passing some time with my wife & sharing some time together, it's one miserable job.

That sounds like a blast! I remember reading an article years ago about belt sander races. I guess that was actually a thing. Some guys would even modify them to soup them up.

[Justin Foley]

Thanks, Rich! I had heard about holding off until next year from another person just last night. Believe me, after dealing with the deck, I'm okay with waiting! I feel like there should be a better way to sand that large of an area. My father-in-law suggested a floor sander, but that may be a little too much.

[Glenn Willis]

I wonder if someone makes a reverse threaded chuck that would self-tighten when spun counterclockwise. That would make an impact driver a good prospect.

An oscillating multi-tool would be easier to flush-cut with than a typical demolition saw although some demo saws have a way to mount the blade for flush cutting.

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A socket wrench type socket is available in multiple sizes, has an inversely tapered socket with sharp, tapered inwardly bolt/screw catching Easy Out type holders for extracting bolts, screws. I have two sets. Absolutely indispensable.

Or Vise Gripes?

Or 4" pipe wrench.

If you buy a multi-tool, get one that has the "tool-less" blade change feature.

In considering whether to remove or cut-off a screw, you obviously should consider whether a new screw is likely to hit the remains of the old one.

Tommy uses something like a core drill at 1:30 in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gz1SatVZ-zE Getting the core out of the bit might be tedious. Perhaps lubrication makes it easier - or some special technique ?

A socket wrench type socket is available in multiple sizes, has an inversely tapered socket with sharp, tapered inwardly bolt/screw catching Easy Out type holders for extracting bolts, screws. I have two sets. Absolutely indispensable.

Or Vise Gripes?

Or 4" pipe wrench.

[michael langman]

I bought a set of those sockets to remove bolts with completely rusted heads on my car a few years back. They work well for removing rusty bolts.

But deck screws are recessed, and I don't think they would work in this situation.