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Thread: Surface Rust

  1. #1
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    Surface Rust

    One year ago our house was struck by lightning and we had a major structure fire. My shop was in the garage and originally was not involved with any damage, but as the contractors worked they did not secure it very well and we had some rain damage to that area. All the equipment was wiped down and rubbed with a oil rag but now that I am setting my shop back up some of my equipment has some surface rust on them. Such as my new lathe, Band Saw Table top and a few others. Is still the best way to get the rust and stain off of cast iron just oil and Steel Wool with lots of elbow grease or is there a easier and better way to do it nowadays. Thanks for any help and guidance.

  2. #2
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    Pretty much just good old fashion hard labor! Many use WD-40 as the lubricant now and some will use an RO sander to speed up the process but yea, its all the same work.

    Now, there ARE some very good ways these days to protect the top once its back in shiny shape. Lots of options there.
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

  3. #3
    Razor blade at a low angle then Jacks method, ive used different ways like how Jack does it then im thinking razor blade first gets rid of a good portion and less wear on the Scotchbrite.

    Capture.jpg

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ben Rivel View Post

    Now, there ARE some very good ways these days to protect the top once its back in shiny shape. Lots of options there.
    Could you list some favorites? I've been surprised at how quickly rust appears for no obvious reason, even with wax applied. For instance, leaving the fence on my table saw parked over the cast iron overnight. Apparently, condensation forms under the fence, boom! Rust!

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Decker View Post
    Could you list some favorites? I've been surprised at how quickly rust appears for no obvious reason, even with wax applied. For instance, leaving the fence on my table saw parked over the cast iron overnight. Apparently, condensation forms under the fence, boom! Rust!
    Based on someone's advice here, I have been wiping my de-rusted steel tops with a clear finish. Shellac didnt hold up well, but several oil based varnish variants have lasted 6 months or longer. I put it on and rub it in well. After it dries, I knock down any nubs with a brown paper bag. Sometimes I follow that with wax - other times I dont. YMMV.
    Fred

  6. #6
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    Fred, I remember something about putting varnish-type things on cast iron, and it just seemed "wrong" to me. That, and thinking about what it would involve if you wanted to remove it.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Decker View Post
    Could you list some favorites? I've been surprised at how quickly rust appears for no obvious reason, even with wax applied. For instance, leaving the fence on my table saw parked over the cast iron overnight. Apparently, condensation forms under the fence, boom! Rust!
    If you have conditions where rust just simply occurs for no apparent reason, I have found that the easiest thing to do is plug in a small fan and keep the air circulating. It doesn't take much. A small table top fan works great; especially if it oscillates.

    This is a common (usually seasonal) problem with un-insulated shops and is caused when the metal tools get cold and the air is warmer and humid. The moisture in the air then condenses on the cold metal. I realize that this is not the OP's situation.

  8. #8
    temp changes between night and day and or overall humidity have one room now 89 percent

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Warren Lake View Post
    Razor blade at a low angle then Jacks method, ive used different ways like how Jack does it then im thinking razor blade first gets rid of a good portion and less wear on the Scotchbrite.
    Warren, the brush cup+scotchbrite looks slick. Do you use that dry, or is there some lubricant (like WD40) involved?

  10. #10
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    A wire wheel on a grinder is what I use, followed up with a coat of Johnson's floor wax. I have been cleaning tools from Hurricane Harvey rust.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Decker View Post
    Could you list some favorites? I've been surprised at how quickly rust appears for no obvious reason, even with wax applied. For instance, leaving the fence on my table saw parked over the cast iron overnight. Apparently, condensation forms under the fence, boom! Rust!
    Sure thing. Once you have the top shiny and clean here is my process:


    1. Clean the top with denatured alcohol, wipe dry with clean cloth/shop towel
    2. Apply coat of Boesheild T-9, spread evenly and let dry overnight
    3. Wipe down top with clean clean cloth/shop towel to remove T-9 tackiness
    4. Apply coat of Renaissance or Johnson's Furniture paste wax, let dry for 20-30 minutes
    5. Buff dried wax off till top is super slick
    6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 one more time for a solid second coat of wax
    7. Reapply wax every 1-3 months dependent upon usage.
    8. Enjoy


    That's what I do to all my cast iron table tops and none have a speck of rust.
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by William Young View Post
    If you have conditions where rust just simply occurs for no apparent reason, I have found that the easiest thing to do is plug in a small fan and keep the air circulating. It doesn't take much. A small table top fan works great; especially if it oscillates.

    This is a common (usually seasonal) problem with un-insulated shops and is caused when the metal tools get cold and the air is warmer and humid. The moisture in the air then condenses on the cold metal. I realize that this is not the OP's situation.
    That's pretty much my situation - unheated/uninsulated shop. I can see how a small fan would help, will give that some thought.

    Ben, thanks. What you described isn't far from what I've been doing, excepr that I've never used Boeshield. Wasn't sure if it was OK to put wax over it.

  13. #13
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    Thanks guys!.

    Ben I was thinking about a RO Sander with a scotch brute pad on it to speed things up. Just did not know if something new was out there now. Last time I dealt with rust on cast iron I never was able to get the stain out of it and looking new again.

    Thanks for the info on the Boesheild T-9 and it’s use. Will have to find be some of that. I have plenty of Renaissance Wax, use that on the knives that I make all of the time.

    Thanks again everyone!!

  14. #14
    I tried Boeshield, paste wax etc, but the best thing I have found is wipe on poly. Even works well on my tire machine, and seems like tires are always wet either inside or outside.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Friedrichs View Post
    Warren, the brush cup+scotchbrite looks slick. Do you use that dry, or is there some lubricant (like WD40) involved?
    That’s the method I use too. No lubricant needed. Scrape with a razor blade first is always a good idea.

    I’ve tried most all other ways and this is by far the fastest and most effective.

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